Optimum spring tension for slip-its

[ChrisinHove]

A couple of comments on the new Lil Native slip it got me wondering.

For those who appreciate non-lockers, how do you like your spring tension?

My old gin-1 UKPK has a very mild spring strength, but the ability to easily open and close one handed is certainly useful, and it hasn’t closed on me yet.

Are strong springs simply delusional? Are they intended just to give the impression of a secure blade or does the extra spring strength have a purpose beyond that of making us feel safer? Once they let go, and they will, your fingers are still the blade stop.

I suppose the answer is always going to be one of personal preference, somewhere in that range between the “sloppy” and “impossible” we’ve all experienced, but I would be interested in your views.

As in-house designed & manufactured, I would assume the Lil Native spring strength is precisely Eric’s idea of optimum. I can’t wait for it to arrive….

[VooDooChild]

A stronger spring will resist opening more. So if you are paranoid about the knife coming open in your pocket then thats a good thing.

[Bloke]

G’day Chris, I quite like a heavy spring tension. I don’t have a Spyder slippy but my favourite is an Enzo I’ve had for years. It has a fairly heavy spring but what’s unique is it’s two stage. Both in opening and closing of that makes sense.

Talking of slippies, I sharpened a Case Slimline Trapper today and playing with it I came that close closing it on my onkaparingas it wasn’t funny.

[Evil D]

There are other factors at play than the strength of the spring, such as the position of the thumb hole relative to the pivot. The distance out from the handle and distance from the pivot effect how much leverage is required to open the blade. I'm sure close bias is another part of this and larger heavier blades will require a stronger spring to keep them closed.

[Ramonade]

I come from a slippy background (lol), and we are just used to this kind of knives. We always cut thinking about it, and cuts using the tip are used only in a really controlled manner. Cuts with the tips are in my experience the most susceptible to closing cause of a wrong movement or something.

I like a strong spring, but I don't have any issue using even a friction folder ^^.

[dsvirsky]

A stronger spring will resist opening more. So if you are paranoid about the knife coming open in your pocket then thats a good thing.

Not necessarily, with a "notched-joint" (aka, forced notch) slippy. I have a custom knife by Gudy van Poppel with a very strong backspring that requires exact hand placement and a fair amount of strength to close. However, it opens as easily as the UKPK Salt (which I think hits a sweet spot for spring tension) in my pocket now.

One nice thing about notched-joint knives is, even without a half-stop, there's no bias towards closing until the blade passes the halfway point. Otherwise, that van Poppel slip joint would be an ER trip just waiting to happen.

[JRinFL]

I prefer a firm spring tension, likely higher than most would like, but I also find the Sheffield spring tension to be a bit too strong. At least based on my two Sheffield made Lambsfoot knives.

[Doc Dan]

I like firm, but the Urban is way to difficult, in my opinion. My Pingo, SPY-DK, and both UKPK's are pretty close to just right. The UKPK could use a little stiffening, but not very much at all.

[cody6268]

I had a UKPK, decided (stupidly enough) to disassemble it for cleaning and lost the pivot. It felt weak compared to the traditional folders I had. This one was, I think the original model (GIN-1), and since this was pre MAP-days, I got it for around $35 as my local knife store had several they were getting rid of.

My Roadie, however, is just about perfect. Enough tension to make sure it doesn't close on me, but stil not a bear to open.

I have an old Case Large Congress from my Granddad, and it's a bear to open with monster snap.

[cody6268]

I prefer a firm spring tension, likely higher than most would like, but I also find the Sheffield spring tension to be a bit too strong. At least based on my two Sheffield made Lambsfoot knives.

I have several, and I've noticed Sheffield really likes strong springs, even on cheap advertising penknives.



The most disappointing spring tension I've had in a traditional folder was on a Buck 301. I have a Camillus-made 303 and a 1993 Buck-made 301 that are great. Went to a local knife store, picked one up, and told the clerk "is there something wrong with the back spring on this one, it seems really weak". He said, "They're all like that now". Welp, bought a used 2015 301 in wood, and yep, weak snap. It had some wobble, so it's going back to Idaho with an old 110 and 112 that need some "spa" treatment, and I'm going to see what they can do.

[wrdwrght]

Comparing the starting pressure I need to open my Lil’Native, Maniago-made Urban and Seki-made Urban, I’d say they are pretty much the same, and wholly acceptable to me.

Yes, the hole’s position may vary the experience, as will the action, whether “half-notched” like the Urbans, or rough like my Seki specimen.

The self-close of each makes accidental opening in the pocket a non-issue, at least with mine.