SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
I read though the whole thread and maybe I missed it, but if I just want to round off the teeth on my Salt 2 is the best way to do it with the brown rods in the 40 degree slots? Also would you just hold the blade straight up and down while making your pass along the stone? Sorry if this has been covered.
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
40mm wrote: ↑Mon Mar 28, 2022 7:56 pmI read though the whole thread and maybe I missed it, but if I just want to round off the teeth on my Salt 2 is the best way to do it with the brown rods in the 40 degree slots? Also would you just hold the blade straight up and down while making your pass along the stone? Sorry if this has been covered.
Yep that'll get you there with a few sharpenings. Just hold it straight up at 90 degrees and sharpen as usual.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
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Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
I rounded off the points on my Para 3 serrated edge blade as suggested in this post and found that my blade cuts so much better. I was having too much snagging when cutting up boxes before rounding the points. Now the blade cuts smoother with no snagging. It’s great for opening up plastic packages, cutting up bubble, and cutting rope and paracord with the redone blade.
I used the brown medium rod from the sharpmaker and worked the points my hand occasionally inspecting with a 10X hastings eye loop. When I got the blade shaped the way I liked it, I then sharpened it on the sharpmaker at the 40-degree slots with about 40 passes. Then I switched to the white fine rods and did about 30 passes.
I’ve always used plain edge knives before and really liked them but went to serrated edge after a friend recommended it too me. At first, I was disappointed with the serrated edge until I touched it up as the article suggested. Now I love it. I think serrated is going to be my favorite edge going forward.
Thank you, David for such an informative post. It really helped me a lot.
I used the brown medium rod from the sharpmaker and worked the points my hand occasionally inspecting with a 10X hastings eye loop. When I got the blade shaped the way I liked it, I then sharpened it on the sharpmaker at the 40-degree slots with about 40 passes. Then I switched to the white fine rods and did about 30 passes.
I’ve always used plain edge knives before and really liked them but went to serrated edge after a friend recommended it too me. At first, I was disappointed with the serrated edge until I touched it up as the article suggested. Now I love it. I think serrated is going to be my favorite edge going forward.
Thank you, David for such an informative post. It really helped me a lot.
Dave K
Stay Safe, Stay Strong, Stay Free
Stay Safe, Stay Strong, Stay Free
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
Top 3 steels for SE? Top 3 Spyderco models for SE?
You should never have to ask yourself "do i really need another knife?" The answer is obvious...
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
For me I'd say
LC200N
H1
K390
Runner up VG10
Caribbean
Autonomy 1 (and though I don't have one I suspect the 2 as well)
ARK
Runners up, Rock Jumper and Dragonfly 2 Salt
Those are based on my experience with cutting performance and serration grind style/profile etc. Top models are going to be very subjective, but from the models I've used I would say "brand new out of the box" the best are the Caribbean and ARK. I haven't seen anything else that come with serrations ground as nice as those two. The Caribbean is all but perfect right from the start in every way, and the ARK is ground so thin it won't need any heavy reprofiling to make the serrations slice better and will only need the points mellowed out a little bit to reduce snagging.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
Thank you for your reply. Why are those steels the top? Bc of their toughness?
You should never have to ask yourself "do i really need another knife?" The answer is obvious...
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
Well realistically our selection of current production steels offered in SE is not very big, so a shorter list would steel which steels would I avoid if I had the choice.
But yes, toughness is part of it for me because edge damage isn't as quickly fixed as with PE. Another part for me is how easy they are to reprofile and how easy they are to sharpen, all of these things will make your experience with serrations much more enjoyable.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
I don´t know as much as David about steels and serrations by far, that being said:
- Admittedly I´ve never tried any of the "harder" steels in SE.
All I can say is that steels like VG10, which are decent in PE, become great in SE - true also for LC200N (I never tried H1 - the third steel I have quite some experience with in SE - in PE, so can´t compare).
- As for models: I just have to mention the Endela SE once more. Best serrations I´ve ever tried. For me better than the Salt 2. Rock Jumper, Pac Salt , Para 3... serrations (which are very good too, don´t get me wrong), and a lot better than the "old" clearly more aggressive serrations on Endura SE, Delica SE (both sabre grind), Stretch 1 SE (actually I´ve tried the two latter models just in combo edge, so "partly" and not fully serrated)
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
Thank you both for your replies! I really appreciate it!
You should never have to ask yourself "do i really need another knife?" The answer is obvious...
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Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
I have to expand my horizons, and will soon. I've said this often, but just to repeat, I don't think anyone would ever be lacking with H1 SE. I really could just have this in the Salt platform, and be completely covered.
What fun would that be though?
What fun would that be though?
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
H1 SE is great indeed in my experience - but as it generally is with H1 "only" comes int sabre/hollow grind.
FFG is just different (obviously), true also for ffg in SE - does not necessarily mean better or worse, but a different experience.
And ffg SE just can´t be had with H1 - so imho "expanding the horizons" into other steels that offer SE in ffg, is worth it.
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- cabfrank
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Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
I agree, and want to try LC200N or VG-10, and maybe Magnacut down the road.
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
Like Wartstein, my Endela SE had the best serrations from the factory of all my folding Spyderco’s. Caribbean leaf SE comes in second.
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Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
Just got myself a Resilience S35VN and kombo edge. Shall be interesting. Coming from PE PM2's and Para 3's witch is my go to knifes. I had an idea of a kombo edge and when they released that line of knifes in S35VN that usually isn't a preferred steel... To put it mildly. However in this kombo edge configuration i think it would do great with the added toughness .
Thanks to the OP for an informative writing.
Thanks to the OP for an informative writing.
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
LetItbePM2Forever wrote: ↑Mon May 02, 2022 11:38 amJust got myself a Resilience S35VN and kombo edge. Shall be interesting. Coming from PE PM2's and Para 3's witch is my go to knifes. I had an idea of a kombo edge and when they released that line of knifes in S35VN that usually isn't a preferred steel... To put it mildly. However in this kombo edge configuration i think it would do great with the added toughness .
Thanks to the OP for an informative writing.
My son carries a combo edge S35VN Native 5 and he's managed to chip some teeth but who knows what **** he's putting that knife through, it's his first real EDC knife so he's probably using it for everything he shouldn't.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
Did you ever finish your K390 Police4 SE reprofile? If so what does the edge look like now?
-Matt a.k.a. Lo_Que, loadedquestions135 I ❤ The P'KAL
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"Ghost hunters scope the edge." -sal
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
No. Very close but got discouraged by how poorly it went. I've kinda been sandbagging hoping for a Rock Jumper to come out in K390.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
I would buy my first Rock Jumper if it comes out in K390.
My latest attempt to reprofile my SE Hawkbill Dfly resulted in an edge that is about as close to a plain edge as you can get while still technically being serrated.
Made some errors in trying to go too fast and not paying attention to the direction of the scratch pattern. I've gotten pretty fast at sharpening plain edge with the sharpmaker, moving at that speed with a serrated edge was a disaster. Thankfully I have long wanted a PE hawkbill Dragonfly.
My latest attempt to reprofile my SE Hawkbill Dfly resulted in an edge that is about as close to a plain edge as you can get while still technically being serrated.
Made some errors in trying to go too fast and not paying attention to the direction of the scratch pattern. I've gotten pretty fast at sharpening plain edge with the sharpmaker, moving at that speed with a serrated edge was a disaster. Thankfully I have long wanted a PE hawkbill Dragonfly.
-Matt a.k.a. Lo_Que, loadedquestions135 I ❤ The P'KAL
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"Ghost hunters scope the edge." -sal
- bbturbodad
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Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
It's not a hawkbill but for some reason reprofiling this Dfly took forever.
My Rock Jumper went much quicker.
-Turbo
Re: SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.
Dang Turbo, those look great! Seeing Matt's issues with his knife has really put doing the same to my H1 SE Dragonfly on the back burner. I really just want to round the tips a bit so their not so catchy though, so likely wouldn't be taking off as much steel as you guys have been.
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick