Pacific Salt talk

[cabfrank]

I found both to be plenty stiff and solid. Great knives.

[Joris Mo]

An Endela sized Salt, with the shallow serrations, would also be a great companion to the Pac Salt and Salt.
I have to consciously decide to rotate out my Pac Salt though. When I carry it, it always occurs to me that it would be the only knife I need.

An 'Endela Salt' is a blade I've been waiting for since the Endela came out!
The Endela is probably my all time favorite edc folder and mainly use the VG10 version but would love to see it in LC200N and H1 as well. Have carried and used a Pacific Salt in SE H1 a lot and very hard when travelling/ spending time outdoors and have been amazed with how well the H1 can take a beating!
Have used it to baton wood to start fires in mountainous area in N-Portugal where friends live hoping it would take it, not wanting to bother to go back to the house I was sleeping in to grab my fixed blade and it just smiled and kept going! Ended up using it more often like that to see how well it could keep it up and it is still a great user. About half a year later I was at a Spydiemeet in Amsterdam (where I live) and ended up showing it to Sal and tell him how much I'd abused it and how well it had taken it, I think he could appreciate to see his knives getting used hard and taking it well.
The linerless handle tends to flex a bit more but it is also very tough so it does it very well, really like my FRN.

[JRinFL]

After getting a Salt 1 and applying the Vivi Protocol™ to it, I became a believer. Now I have added a Pac Salt 1, all black, to the roster. It too will receive the Vivi Protocol™ on arrival.

[Gsg9]

Probably any cheap steel will perform better with a coarse edge.

Except that Spyderco's H1 or anything that comes from friends in Japan is not cheap,

"Coarser-grained stainless, such as found on inexpensive & older kitchen knives, seems to do better with edges at 320 or less."

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/per ... e.1233142/

"Turns out it will out cut most knives in my collection if it has a 200-400 grit edge and the higher edge retention steels have a more polished edge most folks tend to use. So if you like to touch up, say, an S30V Manix on the fine sharpmaker rods, I would bet my whole Spyderco collection my PE H1 Pacific will slice cardboard longer than the Manix."

And mine is longer than yours...comparing apples and oranges displaying the results in zebras decimal giraffes on a 16.5 dimensional Cartesian axis system...

Fine edges have their applications too and PE H1 does not Microsoft Excel at all at this.
Some people like their polished edges because they don't need to cut miles of cardboard just to prove the hot water really does exist.

For cutting rope or cardboard coarse may be better, for woodworking finer edge, for other something in between and then there's the users preference and how much time they want to spend polishing those edges and so on...

Here's from Ankerson review of S110V Military

"It’s a very aggressive cutter especially with a coarse edge and will feel like cutting with a hacksaw."

"Overall the CPM S110V performed outstanding with no noticeable edge damage, chipping or rolling at 15 degrees per side and 400 grit."

https://knifeinformer.com/spyderco-mili ... 0v-review/

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=71555

So a higher edge retention steel like S110V will be running around your PE H1 in circles even with a coarse edge.

With a finer edge there's really no competition here, unlike your PE H1 the S110V still performs.

And S110V is also very stain resistant, so I'll let you figure out which one is the overall better steel.

Zebras decimal giraffes...

https://youtu.be/XoKssgJb6eI

[spoonrobot]

[tonijedi]

Zebras decimal giraffes...

You're technically correct, inside that box of analysis.
However, real world decisions are often apples to oranges comparisons/options.
Luxury cars compete not only with other luxury cars but with fancy holidays...
And this topic isn't about H1, it's about Pac Salt as a whole package.
In your presentation you left out the ease of sharpening and thoughness, which may, or may not, be relevant for a given user or situation.
I won't comment on S110V as I have none, because my funds are limited and a steel that comes labeled as difficult to sharpen, brittle and is even more expensive that the expensive H1 doesn't enter my wishlist.

[vivi]

Fine edges have their applications too and PE H1 does not Microsoft Excel at all at this.

That's the point! H1 does poorly with polished edges, so I explored other options to get better edge retention. T

here are other steels I would pick for holding a high polish edge for long stretches, like ZDP189.

So a higher edge retention steel like S110V will be running around your PE H1 in circles even with a coarse edge.

Of course it will! Every steel I've tested shows a dramatic increase in edge retention sharpened at 260 grit VS 2,000 grit, whether 8Cr, H1, LC200N, S30V or K390.

With a finer edge there's really no competition here, unlike your PE H1 the S110V still performs.

PE H1 with a polished edge handles non-abrasive work just fine. I've used it that way for years. But I agree it's not the best option for holding a high polish for long stretches of time.

And S110V is also very stain resistant, so I'll let you figure out which one is the overall better steel

H1 is superior to S110V for my uses.

I can spot rust steels like S110V, VG10, 12C27, 420 etc. in a day.

The amount of time I'd spend polishing rust spots off a S110V blade would be greater than the amount of time I'd spend sharpening H1.

PE H1 at 180-300 grit holds a good edge for me for over a month. It takes me about 90 seconds to touch up. Assuming I sharpen once a month, that's 18 minutes per year to maintain my knife.

With those figures in mind, I feel no need to sacrifice rust proofness, toughness or ease of sharpening for more edge retention. All things H1 does better than S110V.

So for me, H1 is more practical to EDC. With a dab of loc-tite on the pivot, all I have to do to maintain it is sharpen it every month to month and a half, and sanitize it as needed.

[Jason Paul]

So I'm now thinking about getting another Pacific Salt 2, but in PE. I currently have an SE version in LC200N.

I'm having the H1 vs. LC200N debate. I only saw a couple of comments about the two in this thread.

Any more thoughts specifically on the Pacific Salt 2 plain edge (PE) in H1 vs. LC200N?

Thanks!

[vivi]

So I'm now thinking about getting another Pacific Salt 2, but in PE. I currently have an SE version in LC200N.

I'm having the H1 vs. LC200N debate. I only saw a couple of comments about the two in this thread.

Any more thoughts specifically on the Pacific Salt 2 plain edge (PE) in H1 vs. LC200N?

Thanks!

LC200N version is lighter and should hold an edge a bit longer. The FFG has an advantage cutting certain materials.

H1 version is a bit cheaper, the heavier blade swings open a bit more easily, and I'd give it a slight edge in ease of sharpening. Theoretically it should be a bit tougher but I have not had durability issues with either.

Can't go wrong with either version. I enjoy the opening and closing action of the heavier blade H1 version, but the FFG LC200N version is ultra light and an excellent cutter.

[James Y]

Have the centering (and other) issues that some people were reporting with their LC200N Pac Salts been rectified?

The only Pac Salts I own are H1 versions, and I’ve never had any QC issues with them.

Jim

[Jason Paul]

OK - partly due to this thread I just asked for a Pacific Salt 2 PE in H1 for Christmas. I figured since I already have SE in LC200N I may as well try the PE in H1, and try putting a coarse edge on it. I currently only have a Sharpmaker, so of course I had to also ask for a KME so I could get a lower grit edge. Don't judge me!

Have the centering (and other) issues that some people were reporting with their LC200N Pac Salts been rectified?

The only Pac Salts I own are H1 versions, and I’ve never had any QC issues with them.

Jim

Jim - when I ordered my LC200N Pac Salt this past April, I remember reading about those issues and felt like I was taking a chance on it. However, mine arrived perfectly centered with no side-to-side play, and just a slight bit of up/down lock rock, which I believe is fairly common with the Seki City lockbacks anyway. The edge (serrated) was clean and it was very sharp out of the box.

I did start reprofiling it to the 15-degree side of of the Sharpmaker. It's been slow going since I'm just working on it here and there, but it's getting there.

Jason

[tonijedi]

OK - partly due to this thread I just asked for a Pacific Salt 2 PE in H1 for Christmas. I figured since I already have SE in LC200N I may as well try the PE in H1, and try putting a coarse edge on it. I currently only have a Sharpmaker, so of course I had to also ask for a KME so I could get a lower grit edge. Don't judge me!

Have the centering (and other) issues that some people were reporting with their LC200N Pac Salts been rectified?

The only Pac Salts I own are H1 versions, and I’ve never had any QC issues with them.

Jim

Jim - when I ordered my LC200N Pac Salt this past April, I remember reading about those issues and felt like I was taking a chance on it. However, mine arrived perfectly centered with no side-to-side play, and just a slight bit of up/down lock rock, which I believe is fairly common with the Seki City lockbacks anyway. The edge (serrated) was clean and it was very sharp out of the box.

I did start reprofiling it to the 15-degree side of of the Sharpmaker. It's been slow going since I'm just working on it here and there, but it's getting there.

Jason

Waiting on your feedback after you use it.

[VooDooChild]

Have the centering (and other) issues that some people were reporting with their LC200N Pac Salts been rectified?

The only Pac Salts I own are H1 versions, and I’ve never had any QC issues with them.

Jim

Ive got a lc200n pac salt pe, and lc200n pac salt se, and a backup for each of those.

They were all fine out of the box. My users have been fine after being carried.

I honestly think the centering on average for the lc200n pac salt is the same as the h1 pac salt. Its just much harder to tell when the saber ground h1 is slightly off center by looking at the spine in the closed position since the spine thickness stays the same. Its easier to tell when a flat ground distal taper blade gets off center just a little bit.

The other factor is the almost always loose, pretty much free spinning pivot screws that Seki frn models ship with. So Im sure sone reports are just from people who didnt expect a screw to be loose almost immediately.

[James Y]

OK - partly due to this thread I just asked for a Pacific Salt 2 PE in H1 for Christmas. I figured since I already have SE in LC200N I may as well try the PE in H1, and try putting a coarse edge on it. I currently only have a Sharpmaker, so of course I had to also ask for a KME so I could get a lower grit edge. Don't judge me!

Have the centering (and other) issues that some people were reporting with their LC200N Pac Salts been rectified?

The only Pac Salts I own are H1 versions, and I’ve never had any QC issues with them.

Jim

Jim - when I ordered my LC200N Pac Salt this past April, I remember reading about those issues and felt like I was taking a chance on it. However, mine arrived perfectly centered with no side-to-side play, and just a slight bit of up/down lock rock, which I believe is fairly common with the Seki City lockbacks anyway. The edge (serrated) was clean and it was very sharp out of the box.

I did start reprofiling it to the 15-degree side of of the Sharpmaker. It's been slow going since I'm just working on it here and there, but it's getting there.

Jason

Much thanks for the feedback, Jason!

Ive got a lc200n pac salt pe, and lc200n pac salt se, and a backup for each of those.

They were all fine out of the box. My users have been fine after being carried.

I honestly think the centering on average for the lc200n pac salt is the same as the h1 pac salt. Its just much harder to tell when the saber ground h1 is slightly off center by looking at the spine in the closed position since the spine thickness stays the same. Its easier to tell when a flat ground distal taper blade gets off center just a little bit.

The other factor is the almost always loose, pretty much free spinning pivot screws that Seki frn models ship with. So Im sure sone reports are just from people who didnt expect a screw to be loose almost immediately.

Also many thanks, VooDooChild!

Jim

[JSumm]

All of this is great feedback. The Pac Salt LC200N is very high on my list. I have handled it once and it is really hard to believe how light it really is for the size.

[olywa]

Thanks Vivi, I've really enjoyed this thread on H1 PE coarse edges. You and all the other contributers now have me re-considering H1 PE knives. I've never been comfortable with serrated edge upkeep and couldn't really get behind another Salt until the LC200N PEs were released (love 'em). All of my older Salts were in serrated edge so I ended up testing a coarse edge with an old Esee 3 in 1095. The 3 is fairly thin and 1095 is a relatively tough steel which takes an edge and loses it fairly quickly. After putting a 220-grit edge on my 3 I've been really impressed with it's general performance and I'm eager to see if edge-holding is significantly better.

I now want to give H1 PE another shot so I've got an all-black Pac Salt 2 on order and also have an 8" DMT Dia-Sharp plate in Coarse 325-grit headed my way.

[vivi]

Thanks Vivi, I've really enjoyed this thread on H1 PE coarse edges. You and all the other contributers now have me re-considering H1 PE knives. I've never been comfortable with serrated edge upkeep and couldn't really get behind another Salt until the LC200N PEs were released (love 'em). All of my older Salts were in serrated edge so I ended up testing a coarse edge with an old Esee 3 in 1095. The 3 is fairly thin and 1095 is a relatively tough steel which takes an edge and loses it fairly quickly. After putting a 220-grit edge on my 3 I've been really impressed with it's general performance and I'm eager to see if edge-holding is significantly better.

I now want to give H1 PE another shot so I've got an all-black Pac Salt 2 on order and also have an 8" DMT Dia-Sharp plate in Coarse 325-grit headed my way.

That should be a good combo! DMT plates are what I first used for these coarser diamond edges.

[Manixguy@1994]

Vivi , this may be a silly question if so I apologize, will this sharpening technique used for H1 also work with other steels ? Or is it exclusive to H1 and LC200N ? Thank you MG2

[vivi]

Vivi , this may be a silly question if so I apologize, will this sharpening technique used for H1 also work with other steels ? Or is it exclusive to H1 and LC200N ? Thank you MG2

Definitely every steel. While on H1 it makes a big difference since the apex on PE H1 deforms pretty easily, making polished edges far from ideal, I've seen massive edge retention jumps with VG10, S30V, K390 etc.

Here's some of my posts on K390:

I've got three P4's at the moment.....(snip)

All of them currently have 200-300 grit apexes.

If anyone reading this thinks H1 has impressive edge holding at these grits, try it on K390! My thin pakkawood Police held shaving sharpness for over a month @ 200-300 grit. Insane. I have never seen a steel behave like that when it comes to edge retention.



Ironically, the last Police I carried was my P3 sharpened up to ultrafine:



I really like using the diamond > medium rod progression on VG10. It responds very well to the Spyderco ceramics. Again, I like to set the bevel on coarse diamond stones, then use a minimal amount of strokes on the medium rods. Enough to refine the apex, but not so many strokes I grind off the micro serrations.

If the apex doesn't feel rough and grab your nail when you test it, you used too many strokes on the mediums. This is the same method I used when I recently took my Street Beat even thinner:



VG10 seems to love getting sharp regardless of what grit I use. Fun steel to sharpen.

I wouldn't even go up to a DMT fine.

The best experience I had with K390 was at 300 grit right off a coarse diamond stone.

Not only did I manage to get a cleanly shaving edge at that finish, but the K390 Police held on to shaving sharpness for over a month of carry.

I haven't seen any other steel come close to doing that.

K390 sharpened to a coarse edge could legitimately go half a year between sharpenings.

[Manixguy@1994]

Thank you much. I’m going to jump in the fire after first on the year . I’ve decided on the Pacific Salt H1 and there is also another Endura that I am wanting to get . Really appreciate your taking the time to help . MG2