The Manixes i have had/handled has all been too stiff to open to be considered ok, much less fun.
As far as i am concerned they could replace it with AXIS or bolt lock any day.
I agree. Every Spyderco CBBL or backlock that I've owned has had what I consider excessively strong springs. With the exception of only one knife, I've modified them all. That one knife is riveted together, and the effort/benefit ratio is pretty high.
Im the complete opposite. I prefer a strong closing bias and strong detents/ stiff springs.
The rex45 burnt orange and m390 brown g10 manix2 models are very easy to unlock compared to older models I've owned in the past. I wonder if there is some cqi?
My experience with the REX45 was the exact opposite. Contant Quality Impairment? The cage would not retract sufficiently to allow free movement of the blade. The interference was miniscule, so the blade could be pushed closed, or it could be swung closed with gusto, but it would not close freely. I paid to send it back to Golden. Customer Service told me that was the way the knife is supposed to function. I really wanted that sprint knife and was afraid I couldn't get another, so I capitulated. So while there might be CQI, sometimes a pile of parts goes together better than average, sometimes they don't.
Its not cqi as far as I know. I think it was just something random. My rex45 manix ltwt is the same, the action is different than other manix lightweights I have. I also handled a manix lightweight made after the rex 45 sprint and it was just like an older maxamet manix ltwt from several years ago. I dont know whats up with the rex45 sprint manix ltwts, some are fine, some for whatever reason are "stiffer/tighter".
"Rome's greatest contribution to mathematics was the killing of Archimedes."
I personally don't understand why among the Spyderco inveted locks the comp.lock gets used so much more than the CBBL.
For me the latter has only advantages, except perhaps that choil-less folders are more tricky to design with the CBBL.
Like a liner lock, the compression lock allows a “flow-through” build that is super easy to clean in the field. The compression lock also benefits from the elegance of very few moving parts. And, as you mentioned, choil-less designs work more easily with the compression lock (Caribbean) and the liner lock (Tenacious family) than does the CBBL.
I agree with most of your assessment. The simplicity and semi self- cleaning of the comp lock is extra appealing for those of us with perennially sawdust-filled pockets (fellow remodel carpenter).
I have come to prioritize bias to close and stronger springvtension on a closed blade over locks that rely on detents to keep the blade closed. I have begun running a tighter pivot on comp and liner locks than i otherwise would, to help keep the blade closed.
I don't have any CBBL knives currently. Never owned one, but the Spyderco Viele Phoenix Sprint Run Ball-Bearing Lock Knife in Red G-10 caught my eye.
Sharp looking knife. But a host of issues kept me from buying it, #1 being cash on hand. I'm trying to collect all of the Spyderco Native Chiefs released right now and I just don't have the cash to buy everything sold.
It reminds me of a fine mechanical device, like an expensive watch with exposed springs.
Anywho, that's my 2 cents.
I Support: Navy SEAL Foundation, SEAL Jason Redman; America’s Warrior Partnership; Second Amendment Foundation(SAF); Gun Owners of America(GOA); Firearms Policy Coalition(FPC); Knife Rights; The Dog Aging Institute; Longevity Biotech Fellowship; https://andrewsteele.co.uk/ageless/how-you-can-help/
I personally don't understand why among the Spyderco inveted locks the comp.lock gets used so much more than the CBBL.
For me the latter has only advantages, except perhaps that choil-less folders are more tricky to design with the CBBL.
Like a liner lock, the compression lock allows a “flow-through” build that is super easy to clean in the field. The compression lock also benefits from the elegance of very few moving parts. And, as you mentioned, choil-less designs work more easily with the compression lock (Caribbean) and the liner lock (Tenacious family) than does the CBBL.
True.
I never had any cleaning problems with my closed back CBBL and bscklock knives in the field though, even in "muddy" jobs.
But of course it works easier with "flow though"!
For an outdoor folder I'd personally take linerlock over a comp.lock any day of the week.
Choilless designs would work perfectly with backlock too (not CBBL though), but are rarely done since most people seem to use the "let the choil/ ricasso drop on your finger" closing method. Imo there are several better ones, that don't require any unsharpened part on the blade.
Anyway, a bit off topic already...
Top three going by pocket-time (update April 25):
- EDC: Endela SE (K390). Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10), Chaparral SE (CTS XHP)
- Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Endela SE (K390)
Why do cbbls and bbls have a problem with choiless designs?
The D'Allara is choiless, the p'kal is choiless (sort of).
Seems like if you could make a choiless axis lock, of which there are plenty, then you shouldnt have too much trouble making a choiless cbbl.
Thank you for pointing this out. That is one thing that I would like from future CBBL models, the removal of the choil. If we can get a slimmer + longer edged Manix or newer models, that would be awesome.
Why do cbbls and bbls have a problem with choiless designs?
The D'Allara is choiless, the p'kal is choiless (sort of).
Seems like if you could make a choiless axis lock, of which there are plenty, then you shouldnt have too much trouble making a choiless cbbl.
The CBBL in the current form requires quite some space inside the handle.
So I figure in order to fit the blade in too, it has to have a choil or the handle has to be rather tall - I guess for example a CBBL Kapara would not work out -?
Top three going by pocket-time (update April 25):
- EDC: Endela SE (K390). Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10), Chaparral SE (CTS XHP)
- Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Endela SE (K390)
CBBL is my favorite lock. I have often requested more models featuring it.
Same here, I'm always mind blown when people say it's a difficult lock to use. I've always found it, from day 1 to be a very easy and fun lock to use. I think I've had 7 different Manix's and none of them have/had given me a problem.
CBBL is my favorite lock. I have often requested more models featuring it.
Same here, I'm always mind blown when people say it's a difficult lock to use. I've always found it, from day 1 to be a very easy and fun lock to use. I think I've had 7 different Manix's and none of them have/had given me a problem.
I also agree at how easy to use the CBBL is! I have a Manix 2 and a Manix XL and they're both buttery smooth!
Current Top 3
Kapara, Native 5, Pacific Salt 2
M.N.O.S.D #0034
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month."
-Theodore Roosevelt
Are you guys unlocking the CBBL with just your thumb? I don't have that kind of thumb strength, I have to use thumb on one side and forefinger on the other to unlock a Manix.
Are you guys unlocking the CBBL with just your thumb? I don't have that kind of thumb strength, I have to use thumb on one side and forefinger on the other to unlock a Manix.
I use my thumb and pointer finger
Current Top 3
Kapara, Native 5, Pacific Salt 2
M.N.O.S.D #0034
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month."
-Theodore Roosevelt
Are you guys unlocking the CBBL with just your thumb? I don't have that kind of thumb strength, I have to use thumb on one side and forefinger on the other to unlock a Manix.
nerdlock wrote:Thumb and finger method
kobold wrote:
I weakened the spring so I can, but it is still more comfortable and feels more secure doing it on both sides.
I made some videos once showing the six main methods I use for closing a CBBL one handed.
See here: viewtopic.php?t=87806#p1459252
Mostly with just one finger. I guess it is not only finger strength, but also technique..?
All methods work perfectly fine with every CBBL I tried
Top three going by pocket-time (update April 25):
- EDC: Endela SE (K390). Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10), Chaparral SE (CTS XHP)
- Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Endela SE (K390)
Are you guys unlocking the CBBL with just your thumb? I don't have that kind of thumb strength, I have to use thumb on one side and forefinger on the other to unlock a Manix.
I've never handled a CBBL that required more than my thumb to operate.
Are you guys unlocking the CBBL with just your thumb? I don't have that kind of thumb strength, I have to use thumb on one side and forefinger on the other to unlock a Manix.
nerdlock wrote:Thumb and finger method
kobold wrote:
I weakened the spring so I can, but it is still more comfortable and feels more secure doing it on both sides.
I unlock my one and only CBBL, my G10 Manix 2, using both my thumb and forefinger. I possess the thumb strength to do it one-sided, but my personal OCD dictates that I pull to unlock it evenly, to keep the pressure equalized on the plastic tabs (or whatever they’re called) on both sides. My inner self is convinced this may help it to last and remain in spec longer.
I also used to unlock my BM Axis locks with thumb and forefinger as well.
i can unlock my m2lw with my index finger on the under side of my knife as it sits in my hand and guide the blade closed with my thumb using the spydie hole.
i think i said in the beginning of this thread there is a break-in period for the spring and for your fingers. it takes some time to develop your finger strength to be able to close the knife this way, but it's not impossible and doesn't really take that much. i understand not wanting to put in the effort for a pocket knife when there are other designs that take no effort, but then you'll miss out on the wonderfully designed manix.
