Help with my first manix
Help with my first manix
Ok, I’ve wanted a manix2 for awhile now and mr fiancé bought me one for Xmas. It still hasn’t arrived yet (awesome postal service) and I’m already thinking of returning it. She ordered me the lightweight maxemet. I told her I wanted to wait for a sprint run that I wanted but this is what she got me.
Cons: rivet construction, frn scales, non coated blade.
I’m thinking of getting the m390 brown g10 black coated blade instead but am confused. So when st. Nick knives released their exclusive they said their frame was skeletonized. Does this mean that their versions is lighter? Are all other versions of the manix2 not skeletonized?
Bottem line is I have about 200$ to spend on a knife for Xmas.. I am left handed and I own the pm2 left handed version. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Cons: rivet construction, frn scales, non coated blade.
I’m thinking of getting the m390 brown g10 black coated blade instead but am confused. So when st. Nick knives released their exclusive they said their frame was skeletonized. Does this mean that their versions is lighter? Are all other versions of the manix2 not skeletonized?
Bottem line is I have about 200$ to spend on a knife for Xmas.. I am left handed and I own the pm2 left handed version. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Lefty PM2
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Re: Help with my first manix
Hello, welcome aboard.
I just dug out my Cruwear Manix to check the liners and they are skeletonized. I believe that all the liners on all the G-10 models are skeletonized these days.
Maxement is a great steel, but for an all around user steel M390 cannot be beat. If I was forced to choose one over the other, I would choose the M390 model as well, coated or uncoated.
I just dug out my Cruwear Manix to check the liners and they are skeletonized. I believe that all the liners on all the G-10 models are skeletonized these days.
Maxement is a great steel, but for an all around user steel M390 cannot be beat. If I was forced to choose one over the other, I would choose the M390 model as well, coated or uncoated.
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Re: Help with my first manix
- I am sure that all G10 Manixes have sceletonized liners except the "base" S30V model.
That makes for a weight difference of about 4.9oz(139g) (not sceletonized) vs about 4.3 oz (122g) sceletonized.
- Since the CBBL is fully ambidextrous, it makes no difference that your left handed.
- The LW handle is actually made of FRCP, not FRN (not a ton of difference here though)
- I personally prefer the LW models, but I never really actually carried (just handled) a G10 version to compare, so this opinion is not worth too much.
What I like in the LW: Light, but not TOO light, not flimsy at all but feeling very sturdy (and like real quality to me); I prefer the closed back over the open back of the G10; Less, but enough jimping. The pinned construction never was a problem in the LW Manixes I have/had, but sure it would not hurt if it could be disassembled easily.
- The LW does also come with a coated blade (all black) in BD1N steel.
- If I had 200USD and wanted a G10 Manix, I´d try to find the REX45. Not rustproof though and does not a coated blade (which you obviously like to have!)
That makes for a weight difference of about 4.9oz(139g) (not sceletonized) vs about 4.3 oz (122g) sceletonized.
- Since the CBBL is fully ambidextrous, it makes no difference that your left handed.
- The LW handle is actually made of FRCP, not FRN (not a ton of difference here though)
- I personally prefer the LW models, but I never really actually carried (just handled) a G10 version to compare, so this opinion is not worth too much.
What I like in the LW: Light, but not TOO light, not flimsy at all but feeling very sturdy (and like real quality to me); I prefer the closed back over the open back of the G10; Less, but enough jimping. The pinned construction never was a problem in the LW Manixes I have/had, but sure it would not hurt if it could be disassembled easily.
- The LW does also come with a coated blade (all black) in BD1N steel.
- If I had 200USD and wanted a G10 Manix, I´d try to find the REX45. Not rustproof though and does not a coated blade (which you obviously like to have!)
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: Help with my first manix
Added to my post above: Welcome to the forum! :)
And: The brown M390 you mentioned would actually be an awesome choice imho!
And: The brown M390 you mentioned would actually be an awesome choice imho!
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- TenGrainBread
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Re: Help with my first manix
I think with all the hubbub around the LW not having screw construction, a lot of people don't realize that the pivot does use a screw and the blade can be removed, I think. So the maintenance issue isn't as big a deal as is made out to be. It's essentially the same as the really fancy and expensive integral knives with one-piece handles. Nobody really complains about those when it comes to maintenance.
Last edited by TenGrainBread on Tue Jan 05, 2021 8:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Help with my first manix
If you can find one in stock, the M390 with coated blade would be a sure winner and a great EDC knife.
The LW models are awesome too though. It's the same size as the G-10 but carries easily, even in pj pants or light shorts. The jimping is also not as aggressive on the LW models. While a full screw construction would be nice, the pins aren't a big deal.
SPY27 and BD1N are both good all around steels and the BD1N does have the black coated option.
The LW models are awesome too though. It's the same size as the G-10 but carries easily, even in pj pants or light shorts. The jimping is also not as aggressive on the LW models. While a full screw construction would be nice, the pins aren't a big deal.
SPY27 and BD1N are both good all around steels and the BD1N does have the black coated option.
Re: Help with my first manix
Weclome to the forum!
I think the only Manix 2's that I own without the skeletonized liners are the s30v g-10 versions. I'd have to go check, but my memory says that my s110v G-10 has skeletonized liners as well.
And on your knife, my vote is to keep the Maxamet. It's fantastic. :)
Every sprint/exclusive that I've seen has had skeletonized liners.T Tansil wrote: ↑Mon Jan 04, 2021 11:03 pmI’m thinking of getting the m390 brown g10 black coated blade instead but am confused. So when st. Nick knives released their exclusive they said their frame was skeletonized. Does this mean that their versions is lighter? Are all other versions of the manix2 not skeletonized?
I think the only Manix 2's that I own without the skeletonized liners are the s30v g-10 versions. I'd have to go check, but my memory says that my s110v G-10 has skeletonized liners as well.
And on your knife, my vote is to keep the Maxamet. It's fantastic. :)
Re: Help with my first manix
So, you'll quickly learn that the only right answer on this forum is: "get both!" :p I'm a huge fan of the g10 Manix, and as others have said, the base model in s30v is the only one that has non-skeletonized liners that I know of. The brown m390 g10 model should have skeletonized liners, and would be an excellent choice for a first Manix. With that said, the lightweight version has plenty of advantages, too, and I sure wouldn't turn down a gift of one!
Welcome to the forum!
Edit to add: if you would rather have a stainless lightweight Manix, I highly recommend the new spy27 model. I've really loved spy27 steel on my para3 lightweight, and I just got the Manix lw with it as well. Great color, too.
Welcome to the forum!
Edit to add: if you would rather have a stainless lightweight Manix, I highly recommend the new spy27 model. I've really loved spy27 steel on my para3 lightweight, and I just got the Manix lw with it as well. Great color, too.
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"Be excellent to each other." - Bill S. Preston, Esq.
Re: Help with my first manix
For what it's worth, National Knives still has the M390 in stock.
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Re: Help with my first manix
Nope. Not without damaging the scales.TenGrainBread wrote: ↑Tue Jan 05, 2021 8:46 amI think with all the hubbub around the LW not having screw construction, a lot of people don't realize that the pivot does use a screw and the blade can be removed, I think. So the maintenance issue isn't as big a deal as is made out to be. It's essentially the same as the really fancy and expensive integral knives with one-piece handles. Nobody really complains about those when it comes to maintenance.
It's true that the pivot is screwed instead of riveted, but the pivot is inset into the FRCP scale on both sides. You'd have to pry apart the scales pretty far to get it out.
I sort of tried this last night and realized it would be impossible without snapping or permanently bending the scales. The rivet holding the lockbar is just too close, not allowing enough flex in the FRCP.
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"What is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?"
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Re: Help with my first manix
Oh ok. Didn't realize the pivot wasn't removable.The Meat man wrote: ↑Tue Jan 05, 2021 9:28 amNope. Not without damaging the scales.TenGrainBread wrote: ↑Tue Jan 05, 2021 8:46 amI think with all the hubbub around the LW not having screw construction, a lot of people don't realize that the pivot does use a screw and the blade can be removed, I think. So the maintenance issue isn't as big a deal as is made out to be. It's essentially the same as the really fancy and expensive integral knives with one-piece handles. Nobody really complains about those when it comes to maintenance.
It's true that the pivot is screwed instead of riveted, but the pivot is inset into the FRCP scale on both sides. You'd have to pry apart the scales pretty far to get it out.
I sort of tried this last night and realized it would be impossible without snapping or permanently bending the scales. The rivet holding the lockbar is just too close, not allowing enough flex in the FRCP.
- Josh Crutchley
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Re: Help with my first manix
This picture is from a screw conversion thread on BF that shows the bowling pin shaped piece of metal used to reinforce the pivot. The pivot fits into that d-shaped hole.
Re: Help with my first manix
I'd keep the Manix LW Maxamet but that's just me. I like both the G10 & LW but for some reason I carry the LWs more. I don't worry about the pinned construction. All mine are stainless but if I was concerned about corrosion I'd just squirt a little lube in the pivot area and go with it
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- Tucson Tom
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Re: Help with my first manix
I am an overwhelming fan of the G10 Manix myself. I also think that M390 (or either of its equivalents CTS204P or 20CV) are great steels and I would choose them over Maxamet. Maxamet excels in super edge retention, whereas M390 is a friendlier easier to sharpen well rounded steel.
But everyone has their preferences.
But everyone has their preferences.
Re: Help with my first manix
i've had a manix lw for a few years now. it's a great knife, but i hate the pinned construction. early on, i had a surface rust spot show up under the scale on my xhp blade. fortunately, i was able to reach it just barely through the hole where the lock cage is in the handle. personally, i can't believe spyderco would even make a non-stainless manix lw because it can't be properly maintained.
i'd go for the m390 version of i were you, but don't write off the lw version entirely. it's seriously great. i just wish spyderco would stop using pins already.
i'd go for the m390 version of i were you, but don't write off the lw version entirely. it's seriously great. i just wish spyderco would stop using pins already.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
Re: Help with my first manix
Hi T Tansil,
Welcome to our forum.
sal
Welcome to our forum.
sal
Re: Help with my first manix
Enjoy the knife that your fiancé thoughtfully gave to you. A knife is just a knife, but if someone special gave it to you, it's 1000x better.
Don't get too caught up in what the Interweb Experts have to say. The LW is a great knife. The rivets aren't really all that bad. The pattern on the FRCP is great, and provides great traction under all sorts of conditions. Non-coated blades don't show scratching as much as coated. You'll be using the knife and getting it scratched, right? If not, then all the other criteria are moot. Maxamet is a fun material.
- Doc Dan
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Re: Help with my first manix
I'd keep the LW Maxamet because my fiancé gave it to me. Then, I'd take my extra money and by the LW in SPY27 or whatever other steel I preferred. The lightweights are truly great and they do not drag your pants down, yet are pretty strong.
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Follow the Christ, the King,
Live pure, speak true, right wrong, follow the King--
Else, wherefore born?" (Tennyson)
NRA Life Member
Spydernation 0050
Re: Help with my first manix
A bit unusual for me, but I have been on a Manix kick for the past couple of weeks. Rotating between the LW and G10, 2.9oz and 4.3oz respectively.
I do have both flavors of some of the models offered in both FRN/FRCP and G10 - Delica, Manix, Native, UKPK, Para 3. I always prefer the G10. That said, it is nice to have options. And as with any good design, there is always room for variations, whether in handle material, or steel options.
I do have both flavors of some of the models offered in both FRN/FRCP and G10 - Delica, Manix, Native, UKPK, Para 3. I always prefer the G10. That said, it is nice to have options. And as with any good design, there is always room for variations, whether in handle material, or steel options.
Peter
- kennethsime
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Re: Help with my first manix
I've never particularly liked the Manix. Last year, I bought a second-hand Manix LW in Maxamet for a few reasons.
- I wanted to try Maxamet
- I already had a Native 5, which also comes in Maxamet
- I wanted to get out of my comfort zone
- I had the opportunity, and figured I could always sell it without losing much if I didn't like it.
- It's a heck of a lot of knife for the size/weight/pocket displacement.
- The Manix ergos, and the CBBL really shine when you're wearing work gloves.
- Maxamet isn't too hard to sharpen as long as you keep on top of it, and it pretty much never goes dull.
- In many ways, I feel like this knife is the definition of "reliable high performance."
I'm happiest with Micarta and Tool Steel.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.