Direction and Magnitude!

[soc_monki]

Been wanting to pick one of these up since they were discontinued, and found one for a decent price so I snatched it up! Needed a disassembly and some lube, had to flip one of the washers because of cupping, but she's smooth as silk now. Really nice knife. Anyone else have one they like?

Its not going to knock a Shaman out of my pocket, but this one is worth having in the collection!

[poolhustler]

Very nice!!

[DutchBlades]

I'm definitely a big fan of the Magnitude!
Before handling the prototype I was debating whether or not to pick up a Rubicon.
The Magnitude blew the Rubicon out of the water for me and I picked one up as soon as I could.
It's not carried super regularly due to the amount of knives in rotation, but I always enjoy carrying it! :)

[Dazen]

Love mine! One of the most fidget friendly knives I own.

[Joey]

I had one for a few months, but ended up selling it. It’s a bit thick for me, but it was one of the finest knives I’ve ever used. The QC was proper, and the action was incredibly smooth.

[soc_monki]

Nice to see people like it! It is a thick one for sure, but I don't mind it. I carry a 4max Scout a lot... This thing is a featherweight!

Its a fun flipper, but spydie flicking it and thumb flicking is very satisfying as well. Or slow rolling.

Think I'm going to go fidget with it some more... Haha!

[I_like_knives]

I like mine. Got it in a trade a while back. Its a pretty sweet knife. Fit and finish is second to none. Chunky, but thats OK in my book. The CF scales are beautiful.

To avoid that cupping business I converted mine to PB washers, along with my other ultra thin bearing race models. I feel bearings are unnecessary anyhow

[Mushroom]

Big fan of the Magnitude. Mine has a nice snappy detent, solid lockup, and drop shut smooth action. It's an impressive piece!

Mine has spent more time in the Spydiepack than it really should :o. None the less, it's a knife I'm glad to have in my collection too.

[Woodpuppy]

OH YEAH!

[Tiquito]

I like mine. It’s a nice knife. I

[soc_monki]

OH YEAH!

You got the reference!! :D

[soc_monki]

I like mine. Got it in a trade a while back. Its a pretty sweet knife. Fit and finish is second to none. Chunky, but thats OK in my book. The CF scales are beautiful.

To avoid that cupping business I converted mine to PB washers, along with my other ultra thin bearing race models. I feel bearings are unnecessary anyhow

Do you have a tutorial on how to swap the bearings? Specs on the washers and source? I am interested!

[blades&wrenches]

Never owned one, but my father in law carries one. He loves it! Bought it at cost from Peter Carey himself, who is a patient of his.

[soc_monki]

Never owned one, but my father in law carries one. He loves it! Bought it at cost from Peter Carey himself, who is a patient of his.

That's pretty cool getting it from the designer!

[Woodpuppy]

You got the reference!! :D

[blades&wrenches]

Never owned one, but my father in law carries one. He loves it! Bought it at cost from Peter Carey himself, who is a patient of his.

That's pretty cool getting it from the designer!

I know! I didn’t believe him at first, so I googled Carey, and sure enough he lives about 10 miles away. Then I actually saw Carey leaving my father in law’s office one day.

[I_like_knives]

Do you have a tutorial on how to swap the bearings? Specs on the washers and source? I am interested!

I've done this on many knives, not just Spydercos. Its pretty easy.

Now, it seems to me that many people think you need some sort of super thick washer to fill the bearing pocket. Not true. Just get a bigger diameter PB washer to sit over the pocket.

First step, before disassembly, is to measure between the blade and frame/liner with a feeler gauge. This is how thick your washers should be. Plus or minus one or two thousanths should be good enough.

Next, disassemble the knife and figure the ID and OD needed. IIRC, 1/2" OD is usually the ticket. A bit bigger than the bearing pocket so that it sits on top, rather than falling down into it. If it interests you, even bigger diameters can work ocassionally too for added surface area to distribute forces. Just make sure it wont interfere with the lock. Sometimes the stop pin hits even the smaller size ones though, like on the Southard. Then you gotta file a notch in the washer to mate with the pin. Now the washer will be captured and wont spin. I actually prefer this.

Spyderco often uses an odd ID and can be hard to find, so I usually have to get washers with smaller holes and ream them to fit.

I like to flatten and lightly polish washers after modifying them.

KnifeKits.com and USAknifeMaker sell an assortment of PB washers.

This mod works well on knives with pockets milled into the liner/frame and smooth blade tangs. I've tried it on designs with pockets milled into the blade and could not get a smooth action without lots of blade play.

Only negative to this is that sometimes blade centering will be just a teeny bit off on some knives because the pivot cannot be as tight anymore. Ball bearing knives with snug pivots are always dead center.

Notice that I did not include much for specific measurements or replacement parts. If you do not have the tools and knowhow to come up with these numbers, this mod is probably not for you.

[soc_monki]

Do you have a tutorial on how to swap the bearings? Specs on the washers and source? I am interested!

I've done this on many knives, not just Spydercos. Its pretty easy.

Now, it seems to me that many people think you need some sort of super thick washer to fill the bearing pocket. Not true. Just get a bigger diameter PB washer to sit over the pocket.

First step, before disassembly, is to measure between the blade and frame/liner with a feeler gauge. This is how thick your washers should be. Plus or minus one or two thousanths should be good enough.

Next, disassemble the knife and figure the ID and OD needed. IIRC, 1/2" OD is usually the ticket. A bit bigger than the bearing pocket so that it sits on top, rather than falling down into it. If it interests you, even bigger diameters can work ocassionally too for added surface area to distribute forces. Just make sure it wont interfere with the lock. Sometimes the stop pin hits even the smaller size ones though, like on the Southard. Then you gotta file a notch in the washer to mate with the pin. Now the washer will be captured and wont spin. I actually prefer this.

Spyderco often uses an odd ID and can be hard to find, so I usually have to get washers with smaller holes and ream them to fit.

I like to flatten and lightly polish washers after modifying them.

KnifeKits.com and USAknifeMaker sell an assortment of PB washers.

This mod works well on knives with pockets milled into the liner/frame and smooth blade tangs. I've tried it on designs with pockets milled into the blade and could not get a smooth action without lots of blade play.

Only negative to this is that sometimes blade centering will be just a teeny bit off on some knives because the pivot cannot be as tight anymore. Ball bearing knives with snug pivots are always dead center.

Notice that I did not include much for specific measurements or replacement parts. If you do not have the tools and knowhow to come up with these numbers, this mod is probably not for you.

I don't have all the tools, but I can get them. Calipers of course, some files (I have a few but theyre rough, would need some finer ones for finishing probably). Reamers are easy to come by too. Or can use a file.

Measurements aren't a problem, Im an electrician, so I have to measure things almost every day! You gave me the idea though, I'll look into getting a few things and see if I can do it. Would be nice if I could get some spacers to take up the space in the pockets. Glue them in with some weak adhesive, give the pivot more stability. Kind of like the Hinderer tri-way design.

Down the rabbit hole I go!

[I_like_knives]

Would be nice if I could get some spacers to take up the space in the pockets. Glue them in with some weak adhesive, give the pivot more stability. Kind of like the Hinderer tri-way design.

Down the rabbit hole I go!

On my XM is used the provided spacers, but installed by own oversized (OD) washers. I like the idea of a large surface area.

The CRK Inkosi with its absolutely enormous area is my idea a perfect pivot.

That's my main gripe with ball bearings. The tiny little contact points.

I've looked into roller/needle bearing ideas before, to incorporate both low friction operation and increased area, but nothing ever materialized into a DIY project.

I know none of it probably matters in the real world. I just get a good feeling from modding things to my liking.

I may have to get a Shiro some day, as some of their pivot designs align nicely with my way of thinking.

[soc_monki]

Would be nice if I could get some spacers to take up the space in the pockets. Glue them in with some weak adhesive, give the pivot more stability. Kind of like the Hinderer tri-way design.

Down the rabbit hole I go!

On my XM is used the provided spacers, but installed by own oversized (OD) washers. I like the idea of a large surface area.

The CRK Inkosi with its absolutely enormous area is my idea a perfect pivot.

That's my main gripe with ball bearings. The tiny little contact points.

I've looked into roller/needle bearing ideas before, to incorporate both low friction operation and increased area, but nothing ever materialized into a DIY project.

I know none of it probably matters in the real world. I just get a good feeling from modding things to my liking.

I may have to get a Shiro some day, as some of their pivot designs align nicely with my way of thinking.

Whether it matters or not, modding is fun. Cars, motorcycles, knives, guitars, its part of the hobby. :D