Power Lock

[BobABQ]

That would be cool to see on the Lil’ Native. Overkill as far as lock strength on such a small folder but it still would be pretty cool.

[yablanowitz]

On the subhect of dirt and crud, it can certainly get in there, but the way the lock operates it is unlikely to cause a problem. Unlike a regular backlock, there are no sharp corners for the crud to get trapped in. Instead of trapping stuff and packing it into the locking notch, the toggle sweeps debris away.

[Doc Dan]

On the subhect of dirt and crud, it can certainly get in there, but the way the lock operates it is unlikely to cause a problem. Unlike a regular backlock, there are no sharp corners for the crud to get trapped in. Instead of trapping stuff and packing it into the locking notch, the toggle sweeps debris away.

I’d like to see that actually tested.

[yablanowitz]

On the subhect of dirt and crud, it can certainly get in there, but the way the lock operates it is unlikely to cause a problem. Unlike a regular backlock, there are no sharp corners for the crud to get trapped in. Instead of trapping stuff and packing it into the locking notch, the toggle sweeps debris away.

I’d like to see that actually tested.

What sort of test do you need to see to convince you?

[JRinFL]

On the subhect of dirt and crud, it can certainly get in there, but the way the lock operates it is unlikely to cause a problem. Unlike a regular backlock, there are no sharp corners for the crud to get trapped in. Instead of trapping stuff and packing it into the locking notch, the toggle sweeps debris away.

I’d like to see that actually tested.

What sort of test do you need to see to convince you?

HALO drop on a hostile alien world, with all objectives secured KTF, Leej!

Sorry, reading too much SciFi these days.

[Doc Dan]

On the subhect of dirt and crud, it can certainly get in there, but the way the lock operates it is unlikely to cause a problem. Unlike a regular backlock, there are no sharp corners for the crud to get trapped in. Instead of trapping stuff and packing it into the locking notch, the toggle sweeps debris away.

I’d like to see that actually tested.

What sort of test do you need to see to convince you?

Bury it in mud and cow dung, open and close a few times, take it out and see if it still works. Then bury it in sand. work the action, then shake it out and see if it still works. Bury it in peat moss and clay, work the action, then take it out and see if it works. That sort of thing.

[yablanowitz]

On the subhect of dirt and crud, it can certainly get in there, but the way the lock operates it is unlikely to cause a problem. Unlike a regular backlock, there are no sharp corners for the crud to get trapped in. Instead of trapping stuff and packing it into the locking notch, the toggle sweeps debris away.

I’d like to see that actually tested.

What sort of test do you need to see to convince you?

Bury it in mud and cow dung, open and close a few times, take it out and see if it still works. Then bury it in sand. work the action, then shake it out and see if it still works. Bury it in peat moss and clay, work the action, then take it out and see if it works. That sort of thing.

Well, of that's how you treat your tools, I suggest you stick with fixed blades, and the cheaper the better.

[Doc Dan]

It came from being in the Army and from working on a cattle ranch. Knives that work get a lot of junk in them from time to time. Liner locks can be self-cleaning, almost, but are not as strong. Back locks can get gunk in them but it is easy to blow out if needed. These are very strong. Even the Axis lock, which is pretty good in such environments can get gunked up and not work without rinsing out. So, how does the Powerlock stand up to the task?

[Sumdumguy]

What do you consider the ideal model?

sal

Shaman. Or that no choil Shaman you hinted at.

Power Shaman. **** yeah.

I don't know why. But, my brain translates that to "the Totem"...

[5-by-5]

What do you consider the ideal model?

sal

Shaman. Or that no choil Shaman you hinted at.

Power Shaman. **** yeah.

I don't know why. But, my brain translates that to "the Totem"...

I'm with you. I get that radical changes to models are basically new knives.

So let's make a 4 inch Native with a power-lock! The Totem!

[Wanimator]

I would love to see something in the XL category like the Tatanka. Maybe a Shempp Rock folder with it.

[yablanowitz]

It came from being in the Army and from working on a cattle ranch. Knives that work get a lot of junk in them from time to time. Liner locks can be self-cleaning, almost, but are not as strong. Back locks can get gunk in them but it is easy to blow out if needed. These are very strong. Even the Axis lock, which is pretty good in such environments can get gunked up and not work without rinsing out. So, how does the Powerlock stand up to the task?

The reason I was asking is I have a factory second Tatanka that I wouldn't mind getting dirty, but I'm not going to do a full Army service weapon selection trial for your amusement. Our sand around here is fine enough to get into any mechanism with moving parts, and what you want to see could destroy any folder I have ever seen. I will take some pictures of what I see as the vulnerable areas and what I can see that would need a little bit of care in the field.

[yablanowitz]

The biggest vulnerability I see is this well.





It is exposed when the knife is open and in use. Pack enough crap in there and the blade won't close all the way. It is rounded, so it is easy enough to clean out with a small stick or a stem of straw.

The second spot is here, where the toggle and release lever interlock.





Get enough sand and grit in that gap and it could prevent the lock from locking by jamming the toggle.
The gap is closed when the knife is open and locked, so a simple wipe with your thumb before working the lock would be enough to prevent problems.

The gap everyone seems concerned about is no threat. Here you can see a spot where the toggle engages the tang.



The toggle doesn't drop into a notch, it sweeps onto the tang and would push debris out of the way. Releasing the lock moves the toggle off the end of the tang, away from any and everything in the gap, so no matter what is in there, it won't prevent the lock from operating. That whole area is a smooth curve which would shed debris easily.

[BLUETYPEII]

What do you consider the ideal model?

sal

Manix 2 XL

Someone suggested doing one in the new CPM-SPY27 steel with blue G10 & I think that’s a wonderful idea!

[marty_bill_]

Don't underestimate the Chinook 4. Master James Keating knows exactly what needs to be in a knife. I bought one and it absolutely is one of my favorite designs. Not so at first looks but I trust James. He knows his stuff. I have a Tatanka as well and it's good as well, but a Lot of knife.

[TenGrainBread]

I would love to see the Power Lock used on a Manix XL.

[Doc Dan]

Get enough sand and grit in that gap and it could prevent the lock from locking by jamming the toggle.
The gap is closed when the knife is open and locked, so a simple wipe with your thumb before working the lock would be enough to prevent problems.

Yes, that gap between the toggle and the lock bar concerns me. That well could be blown out, but this joint at the toggle/lockbar seems to me to be a potential problem. I am not saying that it is, but it looks like getting gunk in there could pose a problem with lockup.

[RustyIron]

Sorry for the naive question but I am not familiar with this type of lock. I understand that this is a variation of the lockback. Is that right? Which advantantages offers (compared to a lockback)?

Is there anyone who ever broke a Spyderco backlock? Functionally, the PowerLock appears no different. What is the advantage? Could the PowerLock be an expensive solution to a non-existent problem?

[yablanowitz]

I haven't broken any backlocks, but I've certainly packed enough crap into various places to stop them from working. The best is when you get enough gunk stuck to the bottom of the lock bar to keep the end from engaging the notch in the tang. That can be tough to clean out. The Powerlock eliminates several problem areas of the backlock. Functionally, it is totally different, the similarity is superficial.

[yablanowitz]

Get enough sand and grit in that gap and it could prevent the lock from locking by jamming the toggle.
The gap is closed when the knife is open and locked, so a simple wipe with your thumb before working the lock would be enough to prevent problems.

Yes, that gap between the toggle and the lock bar concerns me. That well could be blown out, but this joint at the toggle/lockbar seems to me to be a potential problem. I am not saying that it is, but it looks like getting gunk in there could pose a problem with lockup.

Yep. And using lugnuts to hold the wheels on your car instead of welding them on could lead to wheel loss on the road. The gap is closed when the knife is closed or open. If wiping your thumb down the spine of the handle to the lock release is too much effort for you, by all means avoid this lock.