Best "work knives"?

[soc_monki]

Sure razor knives work better on cardboard, but I bought my knives to use and use them I shall! Cardboard, paper, plastic, wood... I just want to use my knives.

Gotta justify my purchases somehow! Haha!

[zuludelta]

My current work knife rotation:

• Yojimbo 2
• Endura 4 Wharncliffe PE
• Delica 4 Wharncliffe PE

For my current purposes, I find Wharncliffe blades with pronounced piercing tips to be the work knife ideal. Just a well-balanced shape for the knife-requiring tasks at my warehouse job: mostly cutting a mix of materials including cardboard, rope, netting, and pallet straps, as well as tasks that require piercing actions, and not just slicing/push cuts/draw cuts.

I don't cut as much rope/pallet strapping as I used to so I don't need serrated edges as much. Back when rope/pallet straps were the primary material I used to cut, though, my work knife rotation consisted entirely of fully serrated or combo edge Native 5, Delica 4, and Salt 2 knives.

On the whole, I subscribe to the idea of using the knife best suited for a particular job, as opposed to thinking that there is a "best work knife". These days, Wharncliffes work best for what I do, but that may change if my work context changes.

[JonLeBlanc]

Military S90V. Very stain resistant (not that I care too much), holds it's edge a long while, big blade, big comfy handle, it works very well.

[prndltech]

My current work knife rotation:

• Yojimbo 2
• Endura 4 Wharncliffe PE
• Delica 4 Wharncliffe PE

For my current purposes, I find Wharncliffe blades with pronounced piercing tips to be the work knife ideal. Just a well-balanced shape for the knife-requiring tasks at my warehouse job: mostly cutting a mix of materials including cardboard, rope, netting, and pallet straps, as well as tasks that require piercing actions, and not just slicing/push cuts/draw cuts.

I don't cut as much rope/pallet strapping as I used to so I don't need serrated edges as much. Back when rope/pallet straps were the primary material I used to cut, though, my work knife rotation consisted entirely of fully serrated or combo edge Native 5, Delica 4, and Salt 2 knives.

On the whole, I subscribe to the idea of using the knife best suited for a particular job, as opposed to thinking that there is a "best work knife". These days, Wharncliffes work best for what I do, but that may change if my work context changes.

I have a SE wharncliffe salt 2 inbound :D

[zuludelta]

I have a SE wharncliffe salt 2 inbound :D

Nice! I've been debating getting one of those for the longest time... but I already have too many knives in the Delica 4 pattern so I'll probably just wait for the serrated Rockjumper to scratch the "serrated wharncliffe" itch.

[prndltech]

I have a SE wharncliffe salt 2 inbound :D

Nice! I've been debating getting one of those for the longest time... but I already have too many knives in the Delica 4 pattern so I'll probably just wait for the serrated Rockjumper to scratch the "serrated wharncliffe" itch.

Oh I’m also purchasing that one.
I pretty much only roll with SE blades. In fact I only have 3 or 4 plain edge knives at the moment and they’re on the way out the door...

[zuludelta]

Oh I’m also purchasing that one.
I pretty much only roll with SE blades. In fact I only have 3 or 4 plain edge knives at the moment and they’re on the way out the door...

I can definitely understand where you're coming from with the "all-SE" approach. I used SE & CE blades almost exclusively for work & for EDC up until a couple of years ago, but there are some PE-only designs (Yojimbo 2, Li'l Temperance 3, Introvert, UKPK, Polestar) that I just like too much in terms of handling & ergos to go "all serrated, all the time".

[wrdwrght]

At this stage in my time here, I think just about any Spydie could be argued the best “work knife”.

Two questions help me make my choice. Is the design appropriate to the task? Am I ready to sacrifice my choice?

The other evening, my Ulize made short work of the boxes collecting in my garage. I had, however, judged them free of staples...

[tjsblade]

I don't need a knife at my paying job but for work around the home, garage, shop, barn, etc. In a folder I carry and use either the Manix 2 G10 version or the original Gayle Bradley.

[Cambertree]

i would agree with this assessment. i've found my manix 2 lw and se pac salt to be a perfect pairing to tackle pretty much anything i could ever need a knife for.

with my growing love of se and the compression lock, i ordered a se caribbean sheepsfoot. the hope is it will marry my favorite parts of the manix, pac salt, and yojimbo, which are my favorite three knives to carry and use.

i will say though... i've seen a lot of talk here about using spydercos for cutting down boxes, and i've even participated in some of that talk, but seriously nothing beats a utility knife for this kind of work. i just tested this out again for myself using my gerber prybrid. it's not exactly an ergonomic utility knife, but it cuts down boxes so much faster than any pocket knife i have.

I'm glad to see someone else has the courage to admit this on a Spyderco forum. Lol. When I first got into Spyderco knives I wanted to use them for everything and searched high and low for a great cardboard slicer. I get packages daily and break them down into smaller sections for recycling so I cut a lot of cardboard each week. I've tried just about every popular model out there and nothing comes even close to a 99 cent utility knife and Stanley Carbide blades. They are thin and slicey, plenty tough, stay sharp for an insane amount of time, and cost less than $0.40 per blade. I feel like a lot of it also has to do with the angle you can get on the blade since your hand is so close to the blade tip. Something you can't really do with any folder. That leverage combined with a thin blade just blasts through cardboard like no other folder or fixed blade I've tried.

I know people here like using Spydies to cut down cardboard, but I am curious how many genuinely believe they work better than a utility knife for this task? And if so, what model of Spydie?

That’s a really interesting question and comparison, Steelcity16.

I used to work for Stanley, so I’ve used all their utility knives, from the ‘premium’ types, different types of blade shapes and carbide blades etc, all the way to old, obscure models that may even go back to the 1930s, when they were first introduced.

Short answer: Yes, I like my ZDP189 Dragonfly better, and also feel it does a better job, all round.

But yes, the Stanley knife certainly has its place, that’s why they’ve been such a successful design. Sharpening those disposable blades, instead of throwing them away is an interesting exercise too, and improves performance. I used to use a UF rod held freehand.

Having your hand close to the tip with a short blade certainly does make a difference with work like cutting cardboard, opening boxes, slicing material on benches etc. I’ve been using the 52100 CE PM2 at work (paired with a DF2, of course) and while there’s a lot I like about it, it sometimes feels a fair bit less nimble than the DF2 when manoevring the blade tip in tight quarters.

These are the reasons why I prefer the DF2 over a Stanley type utility blade.

-Ease of carry and access to deploy the knife. Stanley knives are often cumbersome in this regard.

- Durability. In actual work environments, I’ve looked at a lot of those kind of utility knives as used by other people. Screws often fall out, the plastic ones break, and often continue being used with unsafe sticky tape repairs. The Olfa type snap off blades have an issue with blade disposal.

- Blades. I feel a properly thinned out, and sharpened DF2 blade will slice better than a utility knife. Utility blades often ‘steer’ off course in thick, industrial cardboards. I can also use the Dragonfly blade to slice the tape on a carton and flip open the flaps with a light, prying type action. I wouldn’t do that with a Stanley knife so much. Also the DF2 will transition to heavier work like popping pallet straps and cutting plastics better, I feel.

- Cleaning. Most deterioration in cutting ability in fast paced work environments tends to come from sticky tape residue gumming up the blade rather than blade wear. I find it easier to clean the DF2 and get it back into action than cleaning a Stanley knife blade.

- Ergonomics. Choosing your own best utility blade for home use is one thing, but many workplaces issue the cheapest, flimsiest ‘safety’ knives they can source. It’s common to be issued with a right handed, spring loaded blade design that would require a left hander to go into contortions to operate and cut with it. The DF2 is safer, more comfortable and lefty friendly.

- Sharpenability. I like being able to sharpen my DF2s in different ways to tailor them to the particular work I might be doing.

I guess I could go on, but you get the idea. YMMV, of course.

Thanks for the interesting question. :)

Edit: A thinned out HAP40 Wharny Delica is also a superior utility knife for all the above reasons, IMHO.

[vivi]

Pacific Salts have been my go to work knives for about a decade, even back when I never really considered them part of my EDC rotation, but rather situational use only knives.

I've worked a lot of jobs where I'll be soaked in sweat all day. Roofing in the summer, for example. Or running a 3 man crew food truck alone for a summer. Landscaping and construction.

I've only spent about eight months of my life working office jobs.

Salts were game changers for me, and it was my on the job experience that led me to carrying them outside of work.

[vivi]

I'm glad to see someone else has the courage to admit this on a Spyderco forum. Lol. When I first got into Spyderco knives I wanted to use them for everything and searched high and low for a great cardboard slicer. I get packages daily and break them down into smaller sections for recycling so I cut a lot of cardboard each week. I've tried just about every popular model out there and nothing comes even close to a 99 cent utility knife and Stanley Carbide blades. They are thin and slicey, plenty tough, stay sharp for an insane amount of time, and cost less than $0.40 per blade. I feel like a lot of it also has to do with the angle you can get on the blade since your hand is so close to the blade tip. Something you can't really do with any folder. That leverage combined with a thin blade just blasts through cardboard like no other folder or fixed blade I've tried.

I know people here like using Spydies to cut down cardboard, but I am curious how many genuinely believe they work better than a utility knife for this task? And if so, what model of Spydie?

I personally prefer longer blades for breaking down cardboard, like my Police folders.

I've mentioned this before but when I break down a large box, I slice it in half, stack the halves, slice them into quarters, stack those and repeat as needed. Often times the last stack I cut through is wider than a box cutters entire blade.

I have a box cutter in the garage I use for dirty jobs but I never reach for it for cardboard.



I find having to slice one layer at a time to be dramatically slower.

Of all my knives I really like my PE Aqua Salt for this role. Big ergonomic handle, long blade with room to slice, and an edge that comes right up to the handle. I ran a bunch of experiments trying different grit edge finishes with this knife on cardboard, and that's what led me to discover the aggressive bite low grit PE knives show, and that lower grits can boost the edge retention on steels with weak edge holding.

The Ronin 2 is another one I like for this job. It's basically an oversized fixed utility knife. I sharpen mine on the diamond sharpmaker rods these days for a very toothy utility edge.

Of course I have to mention Swiss Army Knives. Their thin, full flat grinds slice through cardboard with ease.

[GarageBoy]

I wish there a knife with the geometry of a box cutter, but with a 3" blade and holds it's edge better

[bobnikon]

Sure razor knives work better on cardboard, but I bought my knives to use and use them I shall! Cardboard, paper, plastic, wood... I just want to use my knives.

Gotta justify my purchases somehow! Haha!

I have to say, in my 40+ years carrying a knife, this is the best reason I can see for using a premium folder for cutting cardboard, with dirt, tape, hidden staples, etc. As well as, of course, the LCF (look cool factor).

The cost comparrision just doesn't hold water. A $200+ knife vs a $0.30 blade that could in fact be resharpened if you really want to... that is a lot of semi-disposable blades to make up for the one knife.

But that being said, i still grab one of my premium folders, currently the S45 PM3 (because it is new and shiny).

I will say though, it does a better job than my henkels steak knife on a steak. My son did a double take when he saw me cutting my steak with it. My wife just laughed.

But that brings up the point of having the knife over the box cutter. Versitility. I can go from cutting a box, to opening a bag, to trimming a hot dog or marshmellow stake, to cutting a steak, to... the opportunities (excuses) are endless.

Now, how do I justify the number of premium folders when any one of them would truly do the job just fine... Well that is the sickness, but as far as addictions go it isnt that expensive and a lot less self destructive.

Cheers
Erik

[soc_monki]

Sure razor knives work better on cardboard, but I bought my knives to use and use them I shall! Cardboard, paper, plastic, wood... I just want to use my knives.

Gotta justify my purchases somehow! Haha!

I have to say, in my 40+ years carrying a knife, this is the best reason I can see for using a premium folder for cutting cardboard, with dirt, tape, hidden staples, etc. As well as, of course, the LCF (look cool factor).

The cost comparrision just doesn't hold water. A $200+ knife vs a $0.30 blade that could in fact be resharpened if you really want to... that is a lot of semi-disposable blades to make up for the one knife.

But that being said, i still grab one of my premium folders, currently the S45 PM3 (because it is new and shiny).

I will say though, it does a better job than my henkels steak knife on a steak. My son did a double take when he saw me cutting my steak with it. My wife just laughed.

But that brings up the point of having the knife over the box cutter. Versitility. I can go from cutting a box, to opening a bag, to trimming a hot dog or marshmellow stake, to cutting a steak, to... the opportunities (excuses) are endless.

Now, how do I justify the number of premium folders when any one of them would truly do the job just fine... Well that is the sickness, but as far as addictions go it isnt that expensive and a lot less self destructive.

Cheers
Erik

Yep! I can go instantly from cutting cardboard to cutting a steak! Well, I would clean it first, but I have in fact cut steak with my para 3. And sandwiches. And cardboard, stripped cable, trimmed a callus...

Plus, my utility knives are either in my tool bag in the closet, maybe there's one in the hobby room. I have a 100 pack of blades. But I have my knife on me, I don't have to go get the utility knife. I just pull out whatever I'm carrying and do what needs to be done.

And I have resharpened razor blades before. No reason not to! They sharpen up quickly and they do work better for some tasks. Especially ones where you have worries about the tip. Break the tip off a razor? No big deal. It can happen with big wire. Sure, I can strip 500 with my knife, but I'd rather hit copper with a cheap blade!

But I will use any of my knives for all manner of cutting jobs. What good are they if they just sit in my case!

[Featherblade]

I used almost every Spyderco folder, which I have, for a work knife and still search the perfect.
Field of action - electrical and various construction works.
Written bellow is based on my personal experience.

Tenacious CE - good, but too much belly under the tip, slippy G10 handle and combination edge; the last is my wrong decision at the time of the purchase - I liked Tenacious so much when handled it in the local store and there was the last one, with combo edge.
PM2 - perfect mechanic and big spydy hole for fast and light opening, but big belly and slippy G10 scales after years of use.
Para 3 LW - pros like PM2 but without its cons; shorter blade with lower tip and FRN scales make it excellent work knife; straighter edge without belly would make Para 3 perfect work knife.
Rescue 93, Salt 2 SE - serrated edge doesn't work for me as a work knife.
Salt 1 PE (modified Delica 3 handle) - soft edge.
Endura 4 - too long blade; usually use it in the kitchen and while hiking in the winter.
Delica 4 - good, but handle is small and has thin and hollow front half, I dropped it on the ground several times while working on ladders.
Endela (wave feat.) - almost perfect, but when I use force to cut, it has uncomfortable blade play in direction "front to back".
Manix LW - too wide blade, very deep forefinger groove (big forefinger guard).
Native LW - almost perfect, but the tight back lock and partialy hidden spydy hole make it hard to fast deploying.
UKPK - suitable for light electrical and electronics works.
Sage 1 - good for working knife, but slippy CF scales; positioned between UKPK and Native, but it isn't pointy like UKPK for detailed work and it isn't hard user like Native... and this is a gentleman folder, isn't it.

"Dream" work knife :
- Low (narrow) FFG 2.5"-3.2" wharncliffe blade with hollow ramp for the thumb on the spine and without a choil and ricasso
- FRN(FRCP) handle - bi-directional texturing has better traction than G10 in hand and lower traction when extracting from the pocket
- Compression or axis/arc lock.

I'm looking forward for Rock Jumper PE and Endela Wharncliffe PE... and why not - with K390 blades.
What about a lowrider Yojimbo 2 LW...

[kennethsime]

The Native and the Manix 2 are probably my favorite work knives. I still wish the Manix handle was just a tad different, but that knife sure has grown on me. Both are nice because they carry so small for their size, and the blades are very practical. It helps that I have both in super-steel models. :-)

Lightweight knives really are where it's at for work, though. I will "flip my ****" when a PM2LW is announced.

[kobold]

For me, this means garden work and general edc tasks, except i don't cut too much cardboard. All kinds of natural fibers, upto hardwood, so serrations are very welcome.

small users (summer months):

tasman salt 2 se
native salt se
steel will cutjack small
para 3 maxamet (x2)
native rex 45


large users (winter/gloves):

caribbean sheepfoot se
manix 2 s110v
steel will cutjack large
doug ritter rsk (orange)
gayle bradley 2
hultafors gk fixed blade (x4)

I like the gb2 and the doug ritter rsk too much to really abuse them, my actual beaters are the hultafors, the cutjacks and then the serrated spydercos with frn.

I think i could really use a serrated military, i don't find the handle on the endura too ergonomical.

[Tucson Tom]

For me it's the MuleTeam. It's basically a Manix2 that doesn't fold!

Yes! I like this point of view a lot. I'm looking at my PM A11 MT blade right now. What it needs is a handle. That is a project I've been promising to start on for a long time. It would start with getting this bandsaw I have into service and on from there.

That aside, I tend to reach for a Manix when I think of a work knife.

But you know what helps a lot in my choice. I reach for a knife I don't care much about. Then I get to work. That knife used to be my S30V Pm2, but I just got some really nice scales for that knife and now I care about it. I got a lot of use out of that knife, and I'm not talking about abusing it either. My up and coming Rex45 Manix LW might just get put on the front lines and we will see what it will do.

[legOFwhat?]

For me it's the MuleTeam. It's basically a Manix2 that doesn't fold!

Yes! I like this point of view a lot. I'm looking at my PM A11 MT blade right now. What it needs is a handle. That is a project I've been promising to start on for a long time. It would start with getting this bandsaw I have into service and on from there.

That aside, I tend to reach for a Manix when I think of a work knife.

But you know what helps a lot in my choice. I reach for a knife I don't care much about. Then I get to work. That knife used to be my S30V Pm2, but I just got some really nice scales for that knife and now I care about it. I got a lot of use out of that knife, and I'm not talking about abusing it either. My up and coming Rex45 Manix LW might just get put on the front lines and we will see what it will do.

I tried to love my S110V blurple pm2 but just couldn't. I rit dyed it smoothed out the scales but it didn't work. I finally purchased the bluejean micarta flag scales from DLT and now it's been in my pocket ever since...

Oh, and get to work on those MT handles! :p