Forum search turned up nothing: How do you lubricate the washers on Manix 2 LW?

[metaphoricalsimile]

I have a bottle of KPL with a nice little thin nozzle, but I actually can't find a good angle to get any lube down on the washers themselves. I could maybe put some lube in the pivot screw holes that might seep into the washers, but then I would be putting lube in threads that I want to loctite, which is extremely counter productive. Anyone have any tips or tricks for this one?

[Bill1170]

Apply oil alongside the blade when open, then from the spine with blade half open. Work the blade open and closed several times, then wipe up any excess with a tissue. Use a thin oil and capillary action will work its magic.

[The Meat man]

The pivot is not pinned, so it would also be possible to take the blade out entirely. I have never done this though so I can't say how difficult it would be to reassemble.

[soc_monki]

The pivot is not pinned, so it would also be possible to take the blade out entirely. I have never done this though so I can't say how difficult it would be to reassemble.

I do this on my Benchmades all the time so I don't have to fiddle with the axis lock! Sometimes can be a bit fiddly to get back together but it's usually not too bad.

[metaphoricalsimile]

Apply oil alongside the blade when open, then from the spine with blade half open. Work the blade open and closed several times, then wipe up any excess with a tissue. Use a thin oil and capillary action will work its magic.

Like, enough that it just drips down into the action?

[Sharp Guy]

I've had 4 Manix 2 LWs (still have 3) and have never felt the need to lube the pivots on any of them. PB washers are self lubricating

[RustyIron]

I actually can't find a good angle to get any lube down on the washers themselves.

Don't overthink it. Put a couple drops at the boundary between the scales and the blade. Maybe even a drop in the small space created by the CBBL when the knife is closed. A thin lubricant will migrate.

[JD Spydo]

I don't own one of those Manix 2 models so I can't say exactly where I would apply lubrication. But I would recommend that you use a dry lubricant instead of a wet oil type of lubricant. When it comes to intricate parts to lubricate I've been doing very well with dry lubes overall. Take my Dodo models with the ball bearing lock for instance. When I started using that BP 2000 dry lube made by Sentry Solutions instead of using a wet lube like I had been previously>> I had great results with the BP-2000 dry lube product and I had no problem of lint buildup or any other type of accumulative buildups.

I'm slowing going over to dry lubes more and more as time goes by.

[Giygas]

The pivot is not pinned, so it would also be possible to take the blade out entirely. I have never done this though so I can't say how difficult it would be to reassemble.

I do this on my Benchmades all the time so I don't have to fiddle with the axis lock! Sometimes can be a bit fiddly to get back together but it's usually not too bad.

Not possible on the manix LW.

The pivot on benchmades just slides out, and back in. The pivot on a manix is shouldered like in the pm2 so its wide in the center, and narrow shoulders fit into the sclaes/liners.

When i decided i was gonna swap a maxamet blade into the skeletonized liners from a sprint run i needed to pry the scales apart to get the blade and pivot out. I didnt break the FRN scales, but apparently many do when they go that route. I couldnt imagine doing the process in reverse.

Of course, i could have drilled the pins, but i had little to no interest in re-using the scales from the LW.

[wrdwrght]

Lubricating the washers is less the goal than the surfaces that rub against each other. Phosphor-bronze washers already have a low-friction coefficient, and, barring grit in the pivot, lessen the need for oil. Oil does serve to make things silky-smooth, as well as to transport crud away from the pivot. Where to put a drop or two is pretty obvious if you watch the blade at the pivot when you open and close it.

[soc_monki]

The pivot is not pinned, so it would also be possible to take the blade out entirely. I have never done this though so I can't say how difficult it would be to reassemble.

I do this on my Benchmades all the time so I don't have to fiddle with the axis lock! Sometimes can be a bit fiddly to get back together but it's usually not too bad.

Not possible on the manix LW.

The pivot on benchmades just slides out, and back in. The pivot on a manix is shouldered like in the pm2 so its wide in the center, and narrow shoulders fit into the sclaes/liners.

When i decided i was gonna swap a maxamet blade into the skeletonized liners from a sprint run i needed to pry the scales apart to get the blade and pivot out. I didnt break the FRN scales, but apparently many do when they go that route. I couldnt imagine doing the process in reverse.

Of course, i could have drilled the pins, but i had little to no interest in re-using the scales from the LW.

I did not know that. Same as a G10 manix or pm2 then. I haven't taken my Manix apart, I always just put a few drops of oil on the sides of the blade and scales and work it in.

[Evil D]

I'm not sure I follow what the issue here is. If you have a needle dropper or even dip a toothpick into your oil and let it drip into the pivot area it shouldn't make it's way into the pivot screw holes, especially if you already have the screws in and have thread locker on them.

[The Meat man]

The pivot is not pinned, so it would also be possible to take the blade out entirely. I have never done this though so I can't say how difficult it would be to reassemble.

I do this on my Benchmades all the time so I don't have to fiddle with the axis lock! Sometimes can be a bit fiddly to get back together but it's usually not too bad.

Not possible on the manix LW.

The pivot on benchmades just slides out, and back in. The pivot on a manix is shouldered like in the pm2 so its wide in the center, and narrow shoulders fit into the sclaes/liners.

When i decided i was gonna swap a maxamet blade into the skeletonized liners from a sprint run i needed to pry the scales apart to get the blade and pivot out. I didnt break the FRN scales, but apparently many do when they go that route. I couldnt imagine doing the process in reverse.

Of course, i could have drilled the pins, but i had little to no interest in re-using the scales from the LW.

Oh really? I didn't realize that. That's a bummer.

[Baron Mind]

Lube makes the action worse on all my PM2s/Para 3s. I assume the manix would be the same.

[wrdwrght]

Lube makes the action worse on all my PM2s/Para 3s. I assume the manix would be the same.

What are you using?

[Bill1170]

Lube makes the action worse on all my PM2s/Para 3s. I assume the manix would be the same.

Curious. My experience is different. I find that lubrication improves the action of my PM2.

[Wanimator]

These threads are always rife with misinformation. Good lubricant post cleaning makes am extremely smooth knife. Some of my favorites are Royal Purple Synfilm, Weapon Shield CLP, Archoil AR-4400. All produce a silky drop shut action even when the pivot is at its tightest.

[Wartstein]

Hmm.. I too find lube makes the action better and not worse generally... (as it should be).
I am using Victorinox Multitool oil. Works perfectly well for me.

[Larry_Mott]

The pivot is not pinned, so it would also be possible to take the blade out entirely. I have never done this though so I can't say how difficult it would be to reassemble.

With all due respect it makes as much sense taking the blade out of the frame as it does taking your motorcycle engine out of the frame for an oil change..

[The Meat man]

The pivot is not pinned, so it would also be possible to take the blade out entirely. I have never done this though so I can't say how difficult it would be to reassemble.

With all due respect it makes as much sense taking the blade out of the frame as it does taking your motorcycle engine out of the frame for an oil change..

Yeah that's because the motorcycle is designed to be able to change the oil without taking the engine out.