![Image](https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee275/EVIL85SSP/20200618_160503.jpg)
![Image](https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee275/EVIL85SSP/20200618_164658.jpg)
![Image](https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee275/EVIL85SSP/20200618_164911.jpg)
That hot spot on the webbing between my thumb and index finger always forms after a bit of use. The only way I can get around that is by using more of a saber grip with my thumb on the thumb ramp, but sometimes I need a hammer grip. It isn't all the lock's fault, it also has a lot to do with open back/pillar construction, but there's always that spot where the lock cutout is where only half the handle is there to take the pressure of your cut. This is an area where back locks and CBBL's are vastly superior locks.
This is one reason I'm really interested to try out the Rock Jumper, because the back lock will solve this issue for me and if I can get the same performance and ergonomic results from a back lock knife then I'm all over it. I'll miss the drop shutty goodness but I would rather have to fold a blade closed against my thigh than have hot spots.
And before any of you jokers say "get tougher hands", I don't plan on creating a callous just to compensate for a lock design :rolleyes:
How about a back lock, no-choil Shaman that keeps the same rounded handle scales, in LC200N/SE? That would pretty much solve all of my knife issues and answer just about all of my knife wishes. A Shaman with a back lock/full back spacer and rounded handle scales is probably the closest we'll get to a folding fixed blade.