H-1 Blade Scratches
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H-1 Blade Scratches
Any recommendations on what to use/do to remove blade scratches from H-1? I’ve tried Flitz which worked somewhat but not fully. Thanks!
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
Hey Accutronman, scratches, stains, chips and all the things we don’t like happening to our blades and scales just happen when we use our knives. There’s no way round it.
I use H-1 a fair bit and it does tend to scratch a bit easier than some other blade steels. That said I have scratches on every blade I use, irrespective of blade steel so I don’t know that any blade is scratch proof.
I think you’ll find it very hard if not impossible to remove even a scratch that is a few tenths of a thousandth of an inch deep with metal polish or a knife eraser and even if you did take the time and effort to remove a couple of scratches with a harsher abrasive it would end up a full time job just keeping scratches at bay.
I’d strongly recommend you just do what you’re doing and enjoy H-1 for the great steel it is. Before long all the scratches, dints, chips etc. blend to become your well used, not abused knife.
I use H-1 a fair bit and it does tend to scratch a bit easier than some other blade steels. That said I have scratches on every blade I use, irrespective of blade steel so I don’t know that any blade is scratch proof.
I think you’ll find it very hard if not impossible to remove even a scratch that is a few tenths of a thousandth of an inch deep with metal polish or a knife eraser and even if you did take the time and effort to remove a couple of scratches with a harsher abrasive it would end up a full time job just keeping scratches at bay.
I’d strongly recommend you just do what you’re doing and enjoy H-1 for the great steel it is. Before long all the scratches, dints, chips etc. blend to become your well used, not abused knife.
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin
- araneae
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Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
Yup. Comes with the H1 territory. Embrace them.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
Embrace it and move on. H1 scratches from nearly any use, it's easier to just roll with it and be proud of the wear you give it.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
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Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
Yep.
- Connor
"What is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?"
"What is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?"
- SpyderNut
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Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
Depending on how deep the scratches are, you could try some 600 or 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper or even a Scotchbrite pad. Start with very light pressure and increase pressure as needed. Be careful as this will likely remove the logo, etc., from the blade.
:spyder: -Michael
"...as I said before, 'the edge is a wondrous thing', [but] in all of it's qualities, it is still a ghost." - sal
"...as I said before, 'the edge is a wondrous thing', [but] in all of it's qualities, it is still a ghost." - sal
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
Any blade steel: scratches in use
H1: scratches when you look at it
I dig it personally. Gives it character.
H1: scratches when you look at it
I dig it personally. Gives it character.
- Shannon
MNOSD 0006
MNOSD 0006
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
h1 scratches if you look at it wrong. i actually like that about my salt knives. yellow a does and scratched steel means it was never meant to look pretty and always meant to be a user. i use my salt knives harder than the rest of my folding knives because they beg for it.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
SUS 410 etc cladding is pretty easy to scratch too.
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
IMO, trying to remove scratches from H1 would be a fruitless endeavor. As others have already mentioned, H1 scratches very easily, much moreso than any other steel I’ve ever experienced. And any steel will scratch with enough use, but H1 usually scratches for me within the first few uses (and sometimes even the first!). Scratches from use add character, but if you want a steel that “ages gracefully” and remains new-looking, H1 is not it. The Salt knives are 100% users and will show it.
Jim
Jim
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
I support everyone who said here.
H-1 is very scratched. And polishing it is a waste of time.
H-1 will be scratched again. Special charisma. If only to polish and put in a box.
Thanks
H-1 is very scratched. And polishing it is a waste of time.
H-1 will be scratched again. Special charisma. If only to polish and put in a box.
Thanks
I use translator most of the time.
There was a link to the old Spyderco catalogs.
There was a link to the old Spyderco catalogs.
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
I can just join the choir: It´s an hopeless quest trying to avoid scratches in H1 (if one uses the knife at all) and probably also to remove those.
I never tried though (removing!), cause personally I absolutely love when ANY folder in ANY steel starts too look used and more like "mine" and "personal" by that. But that´s just me, literally all of my knives are users,and the approach to keep blades pristine is as fine as my approach is of course. Just H1 not the steel for it then... :rolleyes:
What is even more "scratch prone" in my experience (and as said, I LIKE that): SUS 410, the "cladding" steel for HAP40 and some other steels...
I never tried though (removing!), cause personally I absolutely love when ANY folder in ANY steel starts too look used and more like "mine" and "personal" by that. But that´s just me, literally all of my knives are users,and the approach to keep blades pristine is as fine as my approach is of course. Just H1 not the steel for it then... :rolleyes:
What is even more "scratch prone" in my experience (and as said, I LIKE that): SUS 410, the "cladding" steel for HAP40 and some other steels...
Last edited by Wartstein on Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
If you want your knife to look like "brand new", buy 2 of everything. One as a "safe queen" and the other as a "user".
$$$$$$ :-)
$$$$$$ :-)
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
I don't think there's any reason to do it simply because they'll come back fast from something as simple as cutting some cardboard. H1 is a working man's steel, very easy to maintain sharp and rust free, but all that comes with a cost: it scratches like no other steel.Accutronman wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 5:39 pmAny recommendations on what to use/do to remove blade scratches from H-1? I’ve tried Flitz which worked somewhat but not fully. Thanks!
Like Bloke said, scratches happen, for some steels easier than others. For example you'll have a hard time getting scratches on Maxamet or any steel over 64hrc for that matter, for anything else its just part of the deal of using a tool. Nothing wrong with it. I love my well-worn sides of my Pacific Salt, looks very good in contrast with the crisp and clean edge grind/finish I put on it :D
- Surfingringo
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Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
H1 is an amazing steel but it will scratch VERY easily and there’s nothing to be done about that. My suggestion is to use it hard and eventually there will be so many scratches that they will all blend together to form the new finish. Not joking, that’s actually what happens with H1. Buying the blacked out salts is another option if the scratches really bother you.
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
I on the other hand love that scratched look on SUS410...
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
Re: H-1 Blade Scratches
There seems to be a wide range concerning "scratch-appreciation"... :D
I generally like my users (and all my knives are) to look, well, used.
For example I also like small, "personal" nicks, when the paint wears of the pocket clip, slightly dulled and therefore reprofiled tips and so on, as long as functionality is not affected. All these stuff "tells a story" somehow.
But again, I totally respect different approaches! (Keeping the knife pristine, which certainly is also better if you plan on maybe selling it eventually)
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)