That’s what I like to do... but I’m experimenting
I did the same with the s90v mili above. Since posting I ran it through the medium progression again, then went onto the fine. The aggressive course edge isn’t there, but I can pinch it with 2 fingers and the weight of it will “push cut” thin receipt paper. Not usually what I got for either....
What sharpening tools do you have? How much difference does it make? How much skill do you have? etc.JD Spydo wrote: ↑Sun Sep 15, 2019 3:04 amThat would be a great title for a printed magazine. I used to be an active member on a really popular "straight Razor" forum and the main reason I was there was to learn more about the different stones and strops they used to sharpen with. It was most interesting because those Straight Razors were a completely different animal all together.
But the subject of sharpening can be a pretty vast item of discussion because there are literally hundreds of abrasives and methods to discuss. And it seems like it's a hobby that is growing pretty rapidly. I got really hooked on it when I got my very first Sharpmaker back in the late 90s. I hope this thread gets at least 200 hits on it.
A section on hardware alone could go on for days.
Utilizing microbevels lets you get away with much less. You can leave the entire bevel with the finish from your coarsest stone, then take the apex to whatever grit you desire.jackh wrote: ↑Thu Dec 26, 2019 1:11 amOne thing I've wondered about is how large of change is good enough to do a good job without needing every grit in a set. A couple of weeks ago I sharpened 5 kitchen knives for a friend. They were from the same company but I don't remember which. The blades were stainless but I didn't look to see which. I used my Shapton glass 320, 500, 1k and 2k stones. In theory when you use grits closer together you can spend less time with each stone to achieve the scratch depth of the stone being used. So I wonder if I had used the 320 then the 1k or 2k if I would have seen much difference in the amount of total time. If you made a huge jump is grit (500 to 8000 for example) I don't know if you would ever get rid of the scratch pattern created by a 500 grit stone.
Then you have the amount of money spent total. Then you also need to think of the amount of wear on each stone. After using the 320 if I needed more time with the 1k because I skipped the 500 it stands to reason I'd need to replace it sooner. The only water stones I've ever used are the Shapton glass. When I decided to get water stones I counted on the people in knife and knife sharpening forums on which ones to check out. According to what I read the Shapton glass stones wear much slower than other types. Plus, no soaking is required.
This is what I've wondered about but never experimented with it. One goal would be to have as few stones as possible to save money. Then the amount of time to complete the job would be impacted also. I think I think too much. Jack
This isn't the cheapest one you can find, but it should last you a minimum of a decade.TkoK83Spy wrote: ↑Thu Dec 26, 2019 12:36 pmI'm actually in the middle of re-re-profiling my M390 Para 3. I did it a few months ago but kind of rushed through the project using the Sharpmaker at the 30 degree settings, using the CBN rods. The show side turned out pretty good and even, noticeably thinned down. The clip side hardly looked reprofiled.
I'm finding myself doing much better holding the rod in hand and free handing it. Probably get both sides closer to 13-14dps once I'm done. I'm thinking it's time to look into a diamond stone to get these jobs started! Any suggestions on a decent stone that's not overly expensive to get myself started?
Although I have a lot of accumulated sharpening stuff, those two are what I've used 99% of the time for 30 years. I think it's time to get a sharpmaker with all the rods, just because... and have never owned one.soc_monki wrote: ↑Fri Dec 27, 2019 10:21 amI've been using a lansky with some diamond stones for reprofiling, and my sharpmaker for maintenance, and some reprofiling with the diamond rods. Also have a smith's tri-hone that I haven't used much. Well, I decided I want to actually freehand because systems have limitations. So I worked on sharpening some of our kitchen knives and they came out really nice. Used my sharpmaker uf rods to give them a little more refinement and man... Those things are scary sharp!
So now I own a Norton crystolon combo stone for major work, a dmt fine, and of course my sharpmaker and all the rods. Worked on my Kershaw natrix and I did well. Need more practice though, and will probably be stopping at the dmt fine for the bevel, and then microbevel with my sharpmaker rods, maybe stopping at brown but we will see.
Can't wait to see what I can do with this modest set up!
I kept reading about how the crystolon was a classic stone, so I figured I'd give it a shot. The dmt was a no brainer, was inexpensive and works great, I was really impressed with the speed it cuts! Left a good edge, was slicing paper and paper towels no problem, but didn't seem to want to pop hair that well. So a few swipes on the sharpmaker was all it needed to give it a little refinement.
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