Lock-bar insert question

[013]

I used the search function, but couldn't find anything.
Question:
Do the frame-lock Spydies that have a lock-bar insert use the same steel for both blade & insert?

[The Meat man]

I used the search function, but couldn't find anything.
Question:
Do the frame-lock Spydies that have a lock-bar insert use the same steel for both blade & insert?

It would appear not:

https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/detail ... ocate/1011

My guess is, they probably use some common relatively inexpensive 400 series stainless steel.

[013]

I was asking because I just received a Mantra 2 for my birthday & it dawned on me that the CPM REX M4 steel that contacts the insert might not let the insert last as long as if it was also made out of the same material as the blade. Maybe it would be a good idea for Spyderco to start doing this. I know it would be a slight increase in manufacturing cost, but I feel this would give the insert a much longer life. The insert is not that large, so I don't think it would drastically effect cost. Who knows, there might be a galling issue involved that I'm not aware of. Just thinking out loud I guess...

[FK]

The contact surfaces are polished and should not wear at all after initial break-in period.
If you use a little lubrication on the blade/lockbar interface it will also make the open/close much smoother.

Regards,
FK

[Sharp Guy]

I've had my Mantra for 2 1/2 - 3 years now. I had it apart a couple months ago and didn't see any noticeable wear on the lock bar insert.

[013]

The contact surfaces are polished and should not wear at all after initial break-in period.
If you use a little lubrication on the blade/lockbar interface it will also make the open/close much smoother.

Regards,
FK

Won't the lubrication cause possible slippage?

[013]

I've had my Mantra for 2 1/2 - 3 years now. I had it apart a couple months ago and didn't see any noticeable wear on the lock bar insert.

Good to know. I really like mine & I believe it was a great deal at $119.95

[013]

The contact surfaces are polished and should not wear at all after initial break-in period.
If you use a little lubrication on the blade/lockbar interface it will also make the open/close much smoother.

Regards,
FK

Won't the lubrication cause possible slippage?

Or are you talking about graphite, or possibly sharpie?

[The Mastiff]

Locks and the parts involved are the results of a lot of engineering and testing and what they are and how hard they are hardened to are proprietary information that you won't get much more than generalities on from Spyderco. Every time they change blade steel or heat treats on the blade for sprints or cqi means more engineering, testing and doing the process all over. :)

[Bloke]

The contact surfaces are polished and should not wear at all after initial break-in period.
If you use a little lubrication on the blade/lockbar interface it will also make the open/close much smoother.

Regards,
FK

Won't the lubrication cause possible slippage?

No. The lock bar exerts constant pressure to the tang locking the blade in the open position. Other than disengaging the lock there’s nowhere for anything to slip to. :)

[013]

Locks and the parts involved are the results of a lot of engineering and testing and what they are and how hard they are hardened to are proprietary information that you won't get much more than generalities on from Spyderco. Every time they change blade steel or heat treats on the blade for sprints or cqi means more engineering, testing and doing the process all over. :)

Interesting. Thank you.

[013]

The contact surfaces are polished and should not wear at all after initial break-in period.
If you use a little lubrication on the blade/lockbar interface it will also make the open/close much smoother.

Regards,
FK

Won't the lubrication cause possible slippage?

No. The lock bar exerts constant pressure to the tang locking the blade in the open position. Other than disengaging the lock there’s nowhere for anything to slip to. :)

What kind of lube are we talking about here?

[Bloke]

What kind of lube are we talking about here?

I’m weary of adding lube were it’s not necessarily required and even though you have two mating parts coming together in you frame/liner lock I don’t think it’s essential and depending on what lube you use it can be a lint and grit magnet.

That said when tuning a knife I’ll apply a little grease (Shimano Ace2) and wipe off all but the lightest film and generally not worry about further applications, though I do keep a close eye on non stainless folders and will clean and add a little more grease to the tang via a cotton bud (Q Tip?) from time to time. :)

[013]

What kind of lube are we talking about here?

I’m weary of adding lube were it’s not necessarily required and even though you have two mating parts coming together in you frame/liner lock I don’t think it’s essential and depending on what lube you use it can be a lint and grit magnet.

That said when tuning a knife I’ll apply a little grease (Shimano Ace2) and wipe off all but the lightest film and generally not worry about further applications, though I do keep a close eye on non stainless folders and will clean and add a little more grease to the tang via a cotton bud (Q Tip?) from time to time. :)

I just picked up some Break Free Collector Gun Wipes to use on this blade. It will be interesting to see if these wipes will protect from oxidation/patina.

[013]

What kind of lube are we talking about here?

I’m weary of adding lube were it’s not necessarily required and even though you have two mating parts coming together in you frame/liner lock I don’t think it’s essential and depending on what lube you use it can be a lint and grit magnet.

That said when tuning a knife I’ll apply a little grease (Shimano Ace2) and wipe off all but the lightest film and generally not worry about further applications, though I do keep a close eye on non stainless folders and will clean and add a little more grease to the tang via a cotton bud (Q Tip?) from time to time. :)

I just picked up some Break Free Collector Gun Wipes to use on this blade. It will be interesting to see if these wipes will protect from oxidation/patina.

Does anybody have any experience with Renaissance Wax protecting blades from oxidation/patina?

[FK]

I have used Renaissance Wax for 20+ years on my fixed blades and wood working tools. Excellent product but no experience with folding knives for daily use.

Really like Nano-Oil for the wear surfaces on lockbar and bronze washers, it dries to a thin film and does not attract dust/dirt like more viscous oils. The action smooths out noticeably on a new knife after application.
Any good gun oil works fine for folding knives.

Regards,
FK

[013]

I have used Renaissance Wax for 20+ years on my fixed blades and wood working tools. Excellent product but no experience with folding knives for daily use.

Really like Nano-Oil for the wear surfaces on lockbar and bronze washers, it dries to a thin film and does not attract dust/dirt like more viscous oils. The action smooths out noticeably on a new knife after application.
Any good gun oil works fine for folding knives.

Regards,
FK

Did the Renaissance Wax keep the oxidation at bay on your knives & tools if you were using them on a regular basis?

[koenigsegg]

How much force are you putting on the spine of your blade that you're worried about this?

[013]

How much force are you putting on the spine of your blade that you're worried about this?

Who's worried?

[FK]

Using the tools on a regular schedule,,, I did not reapply until the project was finished for that tool.
Only used Ren wax for tools going into short term storage/inactivity.

Regular use tools have silicone treated gun cloth wipe down at end of day.
You can also do this with any knife.

Regards,
FK