Factory edge poll

[blueblur]

I’ve been into the tougher steels the last year or so, 52100, cruwear, vtoku2 and 4v. The factory bevel didn’t last long on these knives and they are all between 12-15 dps.

[Tims]

That Lum tip gives me flashbacks. Many an hour grinding away at new knives to get a perfect bevel. When I think of all the wasted steel

Over grind at the heel doesn’t faze me too much at all Tim, Tips are another story altogether. The very tip is slightly over ground and slightly rounded which bugs me but it’s only another knife mate, ay? Ah, hahaha! :)

I dunno mate, serious business this knife game!

[TkoK83Spy]

I thought it was funny people were posting factory edged knives to the show your users thread. Seems I triggered a few folks by pointing that out.

I'll never understand why a couple of you guys act like those who don't use their knives as you do are inferior. Must be an ego thing I guess

I made a simple comment in a thread specifically for showing well worn knives that I'm surprised how many of those well worn knives still have a factory edge. Wasn't directed at anyone in particular, it was just an observation.

Seems like pointing that out really struck a nerve. I don't see why it's a big deal.

If I make a thread for posting orange handled knives and someone posts a digital camo Para 2, I'm gonna wonder what they're doing too.

We're suddenly on the chopping block around here as of last night...a bit frustrating to wake up to and read. Heck, I know most of the pics I posted in that thread showed users that I haven't reprofiled, but knives I've used often that are scratched up and been sharpened/touched up many times...didn't make feel attacked or anything, or that I'm an inferior knife user.

[koenigsegg]

I usually use the factory edge for about 6 months then sharpen it, Ikuchi came with a great edge from factory.. maybe the best I've seen. I definitely have some that came dull as can be, or I've used a lot, those are sharpened

[nicked.onaut]

Generally, if the factory bevel is reasonably even and the edge will readily cut newsprint I'll use it as is for a trial period. Then I'll resharpen as needed, and eventually reprofile after repeated sharpening.

Rare are my spyderedge blades which have *all* the factory serration grind lines cleared. I have done that with some, partly for experimentation, by using round (not tapered) diamond files and stones of appropriate diameter in each serration. Fun with chipped 440V serrations. ;-) A labor intensive technique which I rarely need to use.

The roughest OOB grind lines I've encountered were on some GIN-1 UKPKs, easily cleaned up before carry. (I was surprised how rough they were, but no problema, and of course I didn't grumble. Sharpen and move on.)

My main criterion is simply, will they cut well for my needs, and stay that way with time-efficient sharpening.

[vivi]

Wartstein, your picture didn't show up for me.

How long it takes to remove the lines depends primarily on the angle you use and which grit.

If you sharpen a 15dps knife at 20dps, you'll have grind lines for years. If you sharpen it at 10dps, they'll be gone after the first time you set your bevel. If you match the bevel and touch up on the fine sharp maker rods, it will take a dozen sharpenings before they're gone. If you match the bevel with the diamond rods, they can be removed in a single sharpening session.

Generally, if the factory bevel is reasonably even and the edge will readily cut newsprint I'll use it as is for a trial period. Then I'll resharpen as needed, and eventually reprofile after repeated sharpening.

Rare are my spyderedge blades which have *all* the factory serration grind lines cleared. I have done that with some, partly for experimentation, by using round (not tapered) diamond files and stones of appropriate diameter in each serration. Fun with chipped 440V serrations. ;-) A labor intensive technique which I rarely need to use.

The roughest OOB grind lines I've encountered were on some GIN-1 UKPKs, easily cleaned up before carry. (I was surprised how rough they were, but no problema, and of course I didn't grumble. Sharpen and move on.)

My main criterion is simply, will they cut well for my needs, and stay that way with time-efficient sharpening.

The grind lines seem to take a lot longer to sharpen off on SE. That black SE Pacific Salt user I posted had faintly visible lines after 1.5 years of sharpening at 15 degrees with the brown rods. Wasn't until I took it to my diamond rods that they were 100% gone.

[PanChango]

Voted No. It's been a couple years since I purchased a knife.

Everything I have been carrying is well used and sharpened. I thinned most of the edges in the past, but I have been lazy and really only maintain with the sharpmaker anymore.

[Cambertree]

No factory grind lines visible on the AEB-L Urban and Cruwear PM2 in my pockets.

Actually you can see a tiny remnant just at the plungeline on the PM2, but that'll sharpen out soon enough.

[Doc Dan]

Stropping does not remove the lines very fast, normally, and neither does matching the factory edge. It is often difficult to tell if a knife has a factory edge or not based on a photo, unless the photo is a closeup of the edge.

[attila]

Cruwear Millie and AEB-L urban in my pockets. The Millie is used and the edge was taken tighter than 15dps. I’ve only stropped it. I reprofiled the Urban to 15dps. It needed it.

I do still have factory grind lines on several knives. But those in frequent rotation have all been reprofiled to 15dps.

Hi,

If you have the ability to measure it, I was wondering what the thickness behind the edge is of your Cruwear Military. I purchased a slightly used one with an intact factory edge and was surprised to find a very large bevel. I measured it at 0.027" average BTE. I prefer about half that and was curious if your example is also about that thick BTE.

Thanks!

[Woodpuppy]

Cruwear Millie and AEB-L urban in my pockets. The Millie is used and the edge was taken tighter than 15dps. I’ve only stropped it. I reprofiled the Urban to 15dps. It needed it.

I do still have factory grind lines on several knives. But those in frequent rotation have all been reprofiled to 15dps.

Hi,

If you have the ability to measure it, I was wondering what the thickness behind the edge is of your Cruwear Military. I purchased a slightly used one with an intact factory edge and was surprised to find a very large bevel. I measured it at 0.027" average BTE. I prefer about half that and was curious if your example is also about that thick BTE.

Thanks!

I’m using a dial caliper and several measurements are around 0.026” to 0.029”. The wide bevel is why I assumed it had been sharpened at a lower angle. I guess I’ll find out for sure when it needs more than just a touch up.

[attila]

Cruwear Millie and AEB-L urban in my pockets. The Millie is used and the edge was taken tighter than 15dps. I’ve only stropped it. I reprofiled the Urban to 15dps. It needed it.

I do still have factory grind lines on several knives. But those in frequent rotation have all been reprofiled to 15dps.

Hi,

If you have the ability to measure it, I was wondering what the thickness behind the edge is of your Cruwear Military. I purchased a slightly used one with an intact factory edge and was surprised to find a very large bevel. I measured it at 0.027" average BTE. I prefer about half that and was curious if your example is also about that thick BTE.

Thanks!

I’m using a dial caliper and several measurements are around 0.026” to 0.029”. The wide bevel is why I assumed it had been sharpened at a lower angle. I guess I’ll find out for sure when it needs more than just a touch up.

Thanks for the data point.