Do you immediately sharpen a new Spyderco?

[Bloke]

Of the twenty plus odd Spyders I have the only two that came less than sharp were my first Sprig (second one not much better) and my Southfork was the worst so I reprofiled both to 26-28deg before using them.

All other Spyders have come sharp. At very best I’ll give them a light strop initially, nothing more, use them till they need sharpening then reprofile.

I no longer use a 40deg micro bevel on anything. :eek:

[tonijedi]

Nope. Never. I'm not an edge junky. They are all plenty sharp out of the factory for my needs. :D

Ditto here.

Thrice ditto'd

Quadrice ditto'd.

[knivesandbooks]

I've been cutting back on my sharpening veracity lately. Probably because I use my knives less now. I used to sharpen right out of the box, but I generally don't with Spydies as they usually come sharp. There have been a few exceptions. For whatever reason, probably luck of the draw, a few of my Taichung knives came not sharp and with pretty thick bevels. Also, besides the pm2, all of my s110v knives weren't very sharp and one even had a full burr going down it. So those got sharpened right away. I will sometimes just give them a strop.

There is that sort of pride showing off a knife with your own edge in a sea of knife pics with factory edges.

[Brock O Lee]

Knives can be enjoyed in many ways. Some people like the looks and artistry, some like the mechanisms, some like practicality, some like edge retention. I believe many AFI’s are sadly missing out on a key aspect of knife enjoyment: cutting performance, or cutting effort. Is this aspect not at the core of what cutting tools are about?

A new dimension of enjoyment opens up once you experience how effortlessly a thin edge can slice through a rigid material. It is not about sharpness, it’s about the amount of force needed to make the cut. Some people call it cutting ability. Imagine the effort required to slice through a double walled cardboard box using a shaving sharp axe vs a shaving sharp box cutter.

There is a world of difference between the cutting ability of a 10 dps edge and a factory edge. What is more is, your expensive particle metallurgy steel is largely wasted (IMHO) when used with thick edges at obtuse angles (i.e. your typical FFG factory edges). Sure some people are hard users and need the durability, but most do not.

Do yourself a favor, pick a beater in your collection. Lower the angle and prepare to be amazed at how much nicer it cuts compared to the rest. It will not just become your most enjoyable cutter, it will also:
- stay sharp much longer than before
- be much easier to sharpen using a micro bevel

This is why the nutcases among us (and I include myself ) like to sharpen a knife soon after arrival.

[Pelagic]

Knives can be enjoyed in many ways. Some people like the looks and artistry, some like the mechanisms, some like practicality, some like edge retention. I believe many AFI’s are sadly missing out on a key aspect of knife enjoyment: cutting performance, or cutting effort. Is this aspect not at the core of what cutting tools are about?

A new dimension of enjoyment opens up once you experience how effortlessly a thin edge can slice through a rigid material. It is not about sharpness, it’s about the amount of force needed to make the cut. Some people call it cutting ability. Imagine the effort required to slice through a double walled cardboard box using a shaving sharp axe vs a shaving sharp box cutter.

There is a world of difference between the cutting ability of a 10 dps edge and a factory edge. What is more is, your expensive particle metallurgy steel is largely wasted (IMHO) when used with thick edges at obtuse angles (i.e. your typical FFG factory edges). Sure some people are hard users and need the durability, but most do not.

Do yourself a favor, pick a beater in your collection. Lower the angle and prepare to be amazed at how much nicer it cuts compared to the rest. It will not just become your most enjoyable cutter, it will also:
- stay sharp much longer than before
- be much easier to sharpen using a micro bevel

+1

[standy99]

Use it out of the box until it starts to go a touch blunt, then sharpen it. Only ever had to sharpen one knife out of the box out of 20+

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Only when they are a bit Dull.

I have had the following come in much less sharp compared to others none we ever truly dull but they were not truly sharp either failing to cut paper cleanly is the criteria.

#1. Sage 5 S30V
#2. Pacific salt serrated H1 (Twice)
#3. Pacific Salt PE H1
#4. Salt2 PE H1
#5. Spydiechef LC200N (Twice)
#6. Bento Box Shop Lil Matriarch VG10
#7. Waterway LC200N
#8. Military fully serrated 440V
#9. MIlitary partly serrrated DLC S30V
#10. Bento Box Shop Titanium RIL with Blue G-10 Domino CTS-204P
#11. Manix2 S110V
#12.Yojimbo S30V

The only one that was hard to re-profile / sharpen was the Manix2 in S110V re-profiling S110V down to 15 degrees each side is difficult and time consuming even with a Wicked Edge Pro3.

The only one that was impossible to sharpen was the Military2 in 440V = S60V ? That one I sent in for a spa treatment, Spyderco resharpened it but it was never as sharp as the S30V so I sold it.

[aesmith]

Always. I've never received a new knife (or wood working tool) that I'd consider sharp. I must admit to some disappointment when my first Spyderco was not sharp out of the box, given all the posts about receiving their's "shaving sharp". However now I just assume that's a little bit of exaggeration from people otherwise justifiably pleased with their purchases.

[Doc Dan]

Always. I've never received a new knife (or wood working tool) that I'd consider sharp. I must admit to some disappointment when my first Spyderco was not sharp out of the box, given all the posts about receiving their's "shaving sharp". However now I just assume that's a little bit of exaggeration from people otherwise justifiably pleased with their purchases.

No, it’s not. The Dragonfly Salt PE I bought not long ago would whittle hair, not just shave. I’ve had a few like that. I’m sorry you’ve not had the same experience.

[The Meat man]

Always. I've never received a new knife (or wood working tool) that I'd consider sharp. I must admit to some disappointment when my first Spyderco was not sharp out of the box, given all the posts about receiving their's "shaving sharp". However now I just assume that's a little bit of exaggeration from people otherwise justifiably pleased with their purchases.

No, it’s not. The Dragonfly Salt PE I bought not long ago would whittle hair, not just shave. I’ve had a few like that. I’m sorry you’ve not had the same experience.

Agreed. Every single Spyderco knife I've ever gotten came sharp enough to shave. Some were able to whittle hair.
My Police 4 was the least sharp out of the box of all my knives, but it was still sharp enough to shave hair.

Too bad you've not had good experiences but I can assure you that it is not exaggeration. Your case is an anomaly.

[Bill1170]

(Snip)

I no longer use a 40deg micro bevel on anything. :eek:

Same here. A straight 30 degree inclusive edge bevel works very well for me.

[StuntZombie]

I've had a couple that just needed a burr removed out of the box. Besides that, I'll usually leave the edge alone for at least the first week.

[A.S.O.K.A]

Sometimes I do and sometimes I dont. Lately with spydercos, I have been using them first. Started with the Para3 in 4V. The latest one is the Delica4 in Cruwear, as it has a low angle edge which made it very sharp out of the box. I find most of these exclusives to have an edge out of box that will satisfy any end user

[Bloke]

(Snip)

I no longer use a 40deg micro bevel on anything. :eek:

Same here. A straight 30 degree inclusive edge bevel works very well for me.

Hey Bill, I only started using micro bevels a couple of years ago. I’d always sharpen between 25 and 30deg and call it good. When I started using a micro bevel I automatically went with 40deg and didn’t give it a second thought till just recently.

Anyhow, I’m happy enough using a micro bevel for a quick touch up but nothing over 30deg anymore. :)

[Tdog]

Depends on the knife for me. I'll often hit a few passes on the Sharpmaker just for fun. Most have come sharp enough for edc. I agree with Bloke on a couple counts. My Southfork's and Sprig's were both reprofiled (Southfork's really needed it) They cut noticeably better and are easier to maintain. I've also gotten away from micro-bevels, 30 degree on most all my knives with 40 on a few hard use blades. Sure loving the Waterway and the LC, hoping to see more in this steel. Sharpens so easy, holds it's edge reasonably well and no rust issues. A Ti or lightweight Millie with the LC, and a Caly or other 3.5 lw with LC, and I could probably sell off a bunch of my other knives.

Edit to add: how about a Catcherman in lc, both pe and se.....please.

[aesmith]

Too bad you've not had good experiences but I can assure you that it is not exaggeration. Your case is an anomaly.

Maybe. I find it odd though. My sample includes a normal UKPK, Urbans in Elmax and K390, HH special UKPK and a HAP40 Dragonfly. That's a reasonable sample I thought.

[Pelagic]

Just got my first Shaman. The factory bevel will be used and stropped back several times before I reprofile and give it my edge. I am in no rush to increase the thickness bte.

[jasonstone20]

Always. And maybe a reprofile.

[James Y]

I only sharpen a new Spyderco,if I perceive it isn't cutting as smoothly and easily as it should. I've only had that with a few Spydercos. That happened for me more in the past, like back in the late '90s.

Otherwise, I just use the factory edge until it needs its first resharpening.

Jim

[soc_monki]

Nope. All of mine have come stupid sharp! Seems like no other production company can do that. I just got a new zt 0470...dull. My 1st 0470 was sharp, but the bevels were uneven. They use too obtuse an angle anyway so I do reprofile them.

But my Spydies? Nope. They shave, curly cue paper... That's good for me! Then I use the sharpmaker to maintain them and I'm good to go!