This morning Fedex delivered an order that included a Harrier 2, along with a Raven 2 and a Cara Cara 2 rescue model. These are the first byrd knives I've bought, so I wasn't sure what to expect. No local stores carry byrd knives, so I couldn't look at these in person before buying them.
Since I just got them, I haven't used them much yet, but initial impressions are very good: Grinds are even, blades are centered, lockup is solid (no blade play at all), and fit/finish is excellent. For example, on the Harrier (backlock bar and backspacer) and Raven (liners) the transition from the metal to the G10 is perfectly flush. The Harrier and Raven really do not feel or look like $37 or $53 knives.
To be really picky, the open/close (unlocking the backlock) action on the Harrier and Cara Cara is a little bit stiff. But I'm comparing these brand new knives vs. Spyderco backlock knives I've been using for years, so the older knives have probably thousands of open/close cycles on them to smooth the action. I'll carry the Harrier as my EDC for a while and see if the action smooths out with some use before trying to adjust anything.
The G10 on the Harrier has an interesting feel. The "weave" is more open than the G10 on a PM2 or the Raven. But it's still got a good grip texture.
One pleasant surprise was the jimping cuts on the Harrier blade. In the pictures I've seen online, the cuts looked very soft and indistinct and they're actually much better than I was expecting. They're not as clean/sharp as the jimping cuts on my PM2, but that's to be expected considering the steel and price difference.
Also: The Harrier blade needs a signature stamp. The Harrier is a nice design and Sal (and/or Eric?) should get gredit for it.
The only real issue I've encountered is moving the clips to tip-down position. On both the Harrier and Cara Cara, when tightened down the end of the clip screws go past the handle material and drag on the blade. This was most noticeable on the Cara Cara, where the top clip screw was so far past the handle that the lock notch on the blade was actually catching on the screw end. I was able to fix this by filing down the ends of the screws -- it's a tiny amount that needed to be removed, less than 1 mm. But it's an easy fix to do if you have a small pair of Vice-Grips to hold the screw and a file. And obviously this is not an issue if you just leave the knife set up for tip-up carry, where it doesn't matter if the screws go past the handle a bit.