the same spot is on the other side of the edge as well. it looks like there’s another smaller spot also. none of these spots were there before my trip to the beach today and they aren’t just rubbing off. the knife hasn’t been against any other metal and this isn’t it’s first swim in the ocean. any advice or thoughts on why i’m seeing (what looks a lot like) rust?
It might have picked up a few particles of foreign metal from the grinding process at the factory. That's the only thing I can think of off the bat, at least if it really is rust and not some other thing going on.
Or it could've picked up similar particles if you sharpened it recently on an unwashed stone. The tiny metal particles from previously sharpened knives (swarf) could have become embedded in the LC200N as it was sharpened.
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the same spot is on the other side of the edge as well. it looks like there’s another smaller spot also. none of these spots were there before my trip to the beach today and they aren’t just rubbing off. the knife hasn’t been against any other metal and this isn’t it’s first swim in the ocean. any advice or thoughts on why i’m seeing (what looks a lot like) rust?
It might have picked up a few particles of foreign metal from the grinding process at the factory. That's the only thing I can think of off the bat, at least if it really is rust and not some other thing going on.
Or it could've picked up similar particles if you sharpened it recently on an unwashed stone. The tiny metal particles from previously sharpened knives (swarf) could have become embedded in the LC200N as it was sharpened.
this is it's second swim in the ocean, so i would think it would’ve shown up the first time if that was the case. it also hasn’t been sharpened since the factory.
It looks like the factory edge. I believe it is some metal transfer from the sharpening. Resharpen the knife and get rid of the factory edge and see if this recurs. I think resharpening down to new steel will fix this.
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It looks like the factory edge. I believe it is some metal transfer from the sharpening. Resharpen the knife and get rid of the factory edge and see if this recurs. I think resharpening down to new steel will fix this.
thanks for your input. i’m thinking the same thing, but i wanted to document it here to see if anyone else had any similar issues. i think it’s weird that it wasn’t present after the first time in the ocean and that it’s in the exact same place on both sides of the knife.
the spot on the blade is still there, but mostly gone now. i haven’t been carrying the knife a lot lately, so it hasn’t had much time to wear off with use. it was also catching a little in paper at that spot of the blade, so i touched it up on the sharpmaker and it’s slicing real nice again.
this knife is really weird. i feel like i’ve had quite a few issues with it, but they’ve all seemed to right themselves. not sure how that works, but i’ll take it.
also, i dropped it from waist high onto some rough asphalt and it took a chunk out of the frn. i was bummed about it, but it’s in a place that doesn’t affect the ergonomics or functionality at all and if the knife had been open, the tip would’ve been destroyed. i’ll try and post a pic later.
overall, the native 5 salt is a really great edc. in my opinion, there is nothing exciting about the native 5 design, but it’s just a very solid edc tool. i like that it has similar ergos to the manix 2, which is my favorite spyderco, but in a smaller package that’s easier to get away with in some places. the lc200n is the special part of this knife and it seems to be doing just fine, despite my somewhat odd experiences with it so far.
i guess the best testimonial i can give the native 5 salt is this... i’m going to be traveling for a few weeks and am considering only taking this one knife. like i said, it’s just a really solid edc tool. it’s not flashy or fidgety or fun, but it’s a great knife and it’s versatile enough (being a salt) to use for anything and anywhere.
There is definitely something different about the newest Natives. My Salt and S30V black both have the side to side play. The clicking when opening is the choil bump rubbing against the frame as it exits. I carved a wee bit of FRN out of the Salt and slightly rounded the choil bump, and it’s fixed.
The actions seem different somehow. The blade against the lock bar action seems to make them harder to open.
The black Native will barely open. The lock bar area seems too tight against the FRN. Since I already carved a bit of the FRN out in the choil area, I can’t send it back. I’ll have to take it apart and see what’s up.
Actually forgot about this knife because nobody ever talks about it. Thought it was going to be an extremely popular model too. Almost unseen here on the forum. Is it a flop?
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
Definitely no flop. I bought one for me, and one for a friend and the QC is outstanding on both. The blade finish, and bevel are superb and they both came sharper than my Maxamet Native. I don’t get a chance to use my knives much, but I don’t think there’s much to talk about with this one. It’s a Native 5, with another color/steel combo. We already know it’s going to resist corrosion nearly 100% thanks to the steel and components, and form members have shared their experience that echoes the names claim.
However, I have to say I love the logo work that has been done on this model! I hope they use it more in the future, though it might work against the subtle appearance of some knives like the Spydie Chef.
it’s a fine knife. i’ve had some bumps with my copy, but they’ve all worked themselves out. i’ve noticed the action gets slower when the knife is wet, but as it dries, it becomes smoother again.
personally, i think i’d enjoy this steel better in a nicer model knife than the native 5 lw, but i wanted this platform to fill a specific void in my carry collection and it does so quite nicely. i’d love to see a manix 2 salt if that is possible to do with the cbbl. if not, the compression lock would be great too. on that note, a yojimbo salt would 100% be on my short list for purchase since i think sd knives should be as corrosion resistant as possible for ease of maintenance and worry free carry iwb.
of all the spydercos i’ve handled and/or owned, these two are my favorites and they’d be quite compelling in salt versions.
the native salt certainly isn’t a flop. it's just... well, a native. it’s a great edc knife if you have to stay at the 3” mark. there’s just nothing super exciting about the design.
i did decide to bring it as my travel edc in place of a manix 2 lw and pacific salt combo, but it’s not the only knife i brought. i brought the yojimbo also because the native is a little boring and the yojimbo is more interesting all around.
There is definitely something different about the newest Natives. My Salt and S30V black both have the side to side play.
My Native Salt and my Dad's both have the side to side play. It's not really noticeable when the blade is locked open...so some will say it's a non issue. But I disagree. Hopefully Spyderco will "tighten" these up a bit. They use a bushing pivot which makes assembly a breeze but the play exists with the pivot fully snugged. I tried adding a single .005" nylon washer and that eliminated the play.
I need to find one to hold. My bar none favorite is the para3; to me this model defines Spyderco. I’ve never seen the native in person let alone held one.
I need to find one to hold. My bar none favorite is the para3; to me this model defines Spyderco. I’ve never seen the native in person let alone held one.
Same here. I've got 5 para 3's and have yet to try a Native. So many models of the knife are out now, I'm not sure which I would try. For a similar size, I think it would be hard to kick my various Para 3's or Delica Pakkawood out of my pocket. This model is the one that I constantly go back and forth about. Drives me crazy :confused:
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
i think i’d rather have a para 3 than a native. probably the main deciding factor should be thumb ramp or flat. they’re both stout blades at a good size for edc. i got the native for the steel, but i would’ve been happy with a para 3 in lc200n.
I can’t say enough good things about the Native 5. It actually could be the one knife I’ve been searching for. Perfect thickness and grind, size, ergos like you wouldn’t believe, great looks... just love it. I’ve had a few for a while, but they just clicked. That’s how I like it.
As for the new black handled S30V, I rounded the choil bump and lubed the lock bar pivot area, and it seems A-Okay. I do hope they get rid of the side to side play. It makes things rub and click on this close tolerance model. The side of the blade rubs on the frame, causing more friction too. My all blacks and 110V don’t have these issues, so something seems to have changed.
People confuse regrinds with adjustments to the spine thickness. A knife is a wedge cross section, all I do is adjust the wedge and make it more acute of a triangle making it thinner behind the edge. This one is 0.005" behind a 12dps. Too thin for the regular dude probably but cuts like a LASER. Less drag.
's in 10 different steels
