Bravo’s method is preferable but I lack of patience and stable hand. So I follow Unit’s method. It may be exaggerated, but I have tried bravo’s method and have hollowed grind mark exactly at the stone width (using diafold) further down the edge from where I tried to make the curved non sharpened part (imagine J) to be fully sharpened and the transition to ricasso like L shape if you see it edge up.Pelagic wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:35 amAnagarika, that sharpening notch is much more practical than the typical round choils I've seen on blades. In the Bravo91 example, did he just angle the ricasso downward some? However tedious, that seems like a good way to eliminate the problem. I think the first video did exaggerate the issue of difficulty in sharpening though.
That’s a slick idea, and one easy enough to add yourself with a chainsaw file and ceramic or diamond rod.Evil D wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 6:59 amThis is why I propose they instead start adding one single large serration at the heel of the blade. This will achieve the same results as a sharpening notch for those who want it, but also prevent things from snagging since it's still an edge. No edge length is lost (technically you gain a small amount) and you have a nice notch for cutting cord.
This. To me this is the main reason why someone may want a sharpening choil. I haven't done one, but I have attempted to sharpen to the ricasso. Not really ready to do it to all my knives, but as time and sharpenings go on, it may be inevitable.anagarika wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:25 amVivi,
I am in disagreement here. The notch doesn’t reduce the sharp edge, it’s cut into unsharpened part, and if done correctly, it’s sharp, no snagging.
I’m not saying it is a must, as a careful working maintaining the stone paralel to bevel and rub it up to the ricasso is doable.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/vto ... 971/page-6
Post#120, I asked him how he did that and he said just be patient and run the stone flat against the ricasso.
I guess it’s an easier (for me) way to do it. If I try it using Bravo91 flat method, depending on the stone width, the other edge of the stone will dig to the bevel like described in YouTube by Ken/Unit (ewerstruly). I had to raise the stone/blade a bit to keep it parallel to the bevel, and the other end only touch the bevel when the ricasso part is flush. Very difficult doing it free hand.
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