VG10 is very comparable to LC200N in terms of edge retention. LC200N is so corrosion resistant that for most people it will effectively be completely rust proof. VG10 may not be as corrosion resistant but it's plenty corrosion resistant for most people. LC200N is also remarkably tough and easy to sharpen. VG10 is also easy to sharpen. I like VG10 very much for it's well rounded set of properties.
Hi Chad,Xplorer wrote: ↑Fri Dec 14, 2018 2:09 pmK390 is in an entirely different class with regard to edge retention. It's a special steel in that regard and it's also difficult to find. I am a knife maker and I make most of my knives from Vanax, M390, and V4E/CPM4V. I have never been able to find K390 available for purchase with any consistency. I have a piece that a fellow knife maker sent me and knowing how rare it is, I definitely plan to keep the knife I will make from it. The steel is very hard to grind, and pretty hard to sharpen. Once sharp however, it will cut very aggressively and stay sharp for a ridiculously long time.
I wouldn't discourage anyone from buying a knife in VG10 or LC200N..in fact I would encourage it. But, when a knife is available in K390 you have a special opportunity to buy a knife made from a steel that is hard to find and has amazing edge retention.
Those are some nice looking knives, btw how did u apply the mustard to the blade to make ure pm2 look like that? I think it looks awesomeXplorer wrote: ↑Thu Dec 20, 2018 10:33 amI should first say, it's very hard to be sure of anything when looking at a photograph. That said, I would say the first picture does look like a patina may have started to form while it was in the box waiting for an owner to care for it. A little cleaning with Fritz or similar metal polish should take care of that fairly quickly and easily.
This blade is carbon steel so humid environments will cause corrosion and acidic foods will put stains on the blade. You can either choose to keep it wiped down and protect it (mineral oil or vaseline) to maintain the shiny silver blade, or you can embrace the patina. A nice even patina will provide somewhat of a protective barrier against more damaging rust. A patina can be forced on the blade as well.
I do both depending on what I want for a particular knife. My Cruwear Manix is always kept shiny and clean while my 52100 Millie has been developing a healthy natural patina for a few years now. My M4 PM2 has a goofy looking forced patina I did just to see what the patina would look like if I put mustard on the blade .
Here'a 1095 bird and trout knife that I have allowed to patina naturally. It's used in the kitchen regularly and has not been protected for the past 2 years. It doesn't quickly form rust spots any more now that the patina is complete.
My best suggestion is this...if you plan to use it as your EDC, let it patina and even help it form a nice even and complete patina. If you plan to use it only occasionally, polish it now and protect it with a lite coating of mineral oil.
As for the pictures of the grind...from what I can actually see on the pictures it looks like a good grind. I'm not sure exactly what you mean about there being a ledge where the bevel meets the flats. Are you able to get a shot looking down the edge that would show that?
Sounds cosmetic,Doeswhateveraspidercan wrote: ↑Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:18 pmJust Flitzed the blade and it looks like my initial fears were correct this blade has suffered a mistake during manufacture some kind of buffer or belt burn on the one side.
I wonder what would happen if I send it in to Spyderco for warranty evaluation?
Hmmmm You know Sal and Eric the Police is a prime Candidate for LC200N treatment with its length I can cut things in the kitchen like Oranges and grapefruit very nicely