I continue to be amazed by the Delica 4

[Jazz]

Note to self--- don't ever, ever, EVER fully disassemble a delica again!!!!

Yeah, that’s a real treat the first time around.

[anagarika]

Doc,

It’s funny that ergonomic is really individual. I believe your hand is much bigger than mine, but I found Endura worked while Delica didn’t (handle wise). Byrd hawkbill does though and upon adjusting to it, now Delica seems to work. Don’t have one, but have been feeling it (my friend has two).

Mom3ntuM,

Search for Lego Delica. There’s an old thread here with good tips on reassembly.
And those H1 teeth is aggressive indeed!

And finally, these Seki FRNs are unbelievable comfortable. :spyder:

[Mom3ntuM]

Thx for the tip on that Lego thread,, i know what to do next time, if there Will be a next time.. I actually broke the frn nipple, the knife still works but its not as "springy" or safe as it used to be.
So now i'm looking for custom scales and backspacer. Might as well upgrade instead of trying to get an original backspacer.

[knivesandbooks]

Thx for the tip on that Lego thread,, i know what to do next time, if there Will be a next time.. I actually broke the frn nipple, the knife still works but its not as "springy" or safe as it used to be.
So now i'm looking for custom scales and backspacer. Might as well upgrade instead of trying to get an original backspacer.

I think the knifecenter pakkawood or fradon lock carbon fiber oones should be easier

[spyderwolf]

Wouldn’t it be nice if the S30V were a regular catalog steel ?

It is funny how the Endura does not work for me unless I modify it, but the Delica is good right out of the box.

I have small hands and both the D and E 4 fit me like gloves.

[anagarika]

Thx for the tip on that Lego thread,, i know what to do next time, if there Will be a next time.. I actually broke the frn nipple, the knife still works but its not as "springy" or safe as it used to be.
So now i'm looking for custom scales and backspacer. Might as well upgrade instead of trying to get an original backspacer.

Contact Boomer over BF. He made some scales for Delica, some with choil option. https://www.bladeforums.com/members/boomer52.339085/

[Doc Dan]

Doc,

It’s funny that ergonomic is really individual. I believe your hand is much bigger than mine, but I found Endura worked while Delica didn’t (handle wise). Byrd hawkbill does though and upon adjusting to it, now Delica seems to work. Don’t have one, but have been feeling it (my friend has two).

I do have to choke up on it. I think that it is because it is so slim that the Delica fits better. My hands are very thick so I think that is why the Endura needs some slight tweaking and the Delica does not.

[dodgie02]

It's a thing of wonder, the pakkawood delica or the caly 3 sprint are 2 knives of which one is usually on my person at all times.

I have just one drawback, maybe you guys can help with that. All my lockbacks save for the native 5 have at least some vertical blade play. I never really noticed it until I got a vtoku2 delica which had a quite severe amount of back and forth wiggle once the blade had to cut something with a medium amount of resistance. What exactly causes this and how can I get it right? I've opened the pakkawood delica a few times and played around with the bend pin that supports the lockbar. When the pin is removed the lockbar fits the blade perfectly in opened position so in theory zero vertical play should be possible, but with the proper assembly the tension of the lockbar in opened position I noticed it would lock the blade shut just a bit short from ful deployment and causing said blade play.

Does anyone recognize this? What I'd the proper method of fixing this if possible? I hope my English is accurate enough to get my point across! Thanks in advance.

[anycal]

It's a thing of wonder, the pakkawood delica or the caly 3 sprint are 2 knives of which one is usually on my person at all times.

I have just one drawback, maybe you guys can help with that. All my lockbacks save for the native 5 have at least some vertical blade play. I never really noticed it until I got a vtoku2 delica which had a quite severe amount of back and forth wiggle once the blade had to cut something with a medium amount of resistance. What exactly causes this and how can I get it right? I've opened the pakkawood delica a few times and played around with the bend pin that supports the lockbar. When the pin is removed the lockbar fits the blade perfectly in opened position so in theory zero vertical play should be possible, but with the proper assembly the tension of the lockbar in opened position I noticed it would lock the blade shut just a bit short from ful deployment and causing said blade play.

Does anyone recognize this? What I'd the proper method of fixing this if possible? I hope my English is accurate enough to get my point across! Thanks in advance.

I recognize this. I believe this should to be CQI'ed.

As you noted, and from my experience with several Natives, this is not an issue. I also had a chance to handle couple of Manix 2 back lock knives (one at SFO and one at a local shop), with no play. The Golden models have it figured out.

In terms of fixing it, I am not sure. I took all my Japanese knives apart. Seems like an issue with tolerances between the lock bar and the lock bar notch in the blade. I could be wrong...

Other than that, I do enjoy my G10 Delica.

[lonerider1013]

The Delica4 was the first one I got, and the one I return to. I have the regular and the warncliff. Am wanting a zdp one if I get the funds together. I have other knives some much nicer, but the delica -- once i got over the "yuck plastic handle" reaction another poster alluded to, has grown on me.
This is the knife I take when I don't want hassle, when I want a knife that's not cumbersome to carry, but can cut anything I'm likely to throw at it.
The knife I don't have to worry about being careful with because altho it is not cheap, it is relatively affordable. The knife I don't worry about losing, because it is still easily available (Tho i did lose it once and was ticked off til i found it again lol). The knife I don't think twice about taking out, because it is just at that right size at the smaller end of the spectrum --- not tiny, but small enough not to scare folks who frighten easily.
This is the first Spyderco I got -- and it is the last one I'll ever get rid of (not that I plan on getting rid of any!)
I love my Para3, Positron, and Paramilitary 2, and they all have clear advantages, but for some reason the Delica is the one I keep coming back to, like a good book read too many times that you know by heart but still has more to teach you, or a comfortable pair of shoes that fits just right.
Like the original poster said, I have found that the Delica is for me.

- Lonerider

[elena86]

It's a thing of wonder, the pakkawood delica or the caly 3 sprint are 2 knives of which one is usually on my person at all times.

I have just one drawback, maybe you guys can help with that. All my lockbacks save for the native 5 have at least some vertical blade play. I never really noticed it until I got a vtoku2 delica which had a quite severe amount of back and forth wiggle once the blade had to cut something with a medium amount of resistance. What exactly causes this and how can I get it right? I've opened the pakkawood delica a few times and played around with the bend pin that supports the lockbar. When the pin is removed the lockbar fits the blade perfectly in opened position so in theory zero vertical play should be possible, but with the proper assembly the tension of the lockbar in opened position I noticed it would lock the blade shut just a bit short from ful deployment and causing said blade play.

Does anyone recognize this? What I'd the proper method of fixing this if possible? I hope my English is accurate enough to get my point across! Thanks in advance.

I recognize this. I believe this should to be CQI'ed.

As you noted, and from my experience with several Natives, this is not an issue. I also had a chance to handle couple of Manix 2 back lock knives (one at SFO and one at a local shop), with no play. The Golden models have it figured out.

In terms of fixing it, I am not sure. I took all my Japanese knives apart. Sems like an issue with toleraneces between the lock bar and the lock bar notch in the blade. I could be wrong...

Other than that, I do enjoy my G10 Delica.

No, you're not. It's just that the japanese can't handle very tight tolerances... Sal explained that in a previous thread....

[Gevatter]

No, you're not. It's just that the japanese can't handle very tight tolerances... Sal explained that in a previous thread....

I thought vertical bladeplay is some kind of a negative side effect of a more sturdy back lock?

[attila]

It's a thing of wonder, the pakkawood delica or the caly 3 sprint are 2 knives of which one is usually on my person at all times.

I have just one drawback, maybe you guys can help with that. All my lockbacks save for the native 5 have at least some vertical blade play. I never really noticed it until I got a vtoku2 delica which had a quite severe amount of back and forth wiggle once the blade had to cut something with a medium amount of resistance. What exactly causes this and how can I get it right? I've opened the pakkawood delica a few times and played around with the bend pin that supports the lockbar. When the pin is removed the lockbar fits the blade perfectly in opened position so in theory zero vertical play should be possible, but with the proper assembly the tension of the lockbar in opened position I noticed it would lock the blade shut just a bit short from ful deployment and causing said blade play.

Does anyone recognize this? What I'd the proper method of fixing this if possible? I hope my English is accurate enough to get my point across! Thanks in advance.

I wish I knew how to fix vertical blade play, but it's sometimes a complex problem that would require changes in manufacturing. Some alleviation techniques have been documented (peening the lockbar, etc.), but I don't think that'd work on Spydies.

It's not always only a lock-to-blade tolerance issue. Pivot tolerances are lacking as well on all but a couple of my Japanese Spydercos (Seki and Moki).

The pivot pin, scale pivot holes, and blade pivot holes are not made to tight enough tolerances to keep play from happening. I can tell this by removing lockbar pressure from the blade and moving the blade back and forth perpendicular to the pivot axis without rotating the blade about that axis. I feel slop between these components, and when locked, it manifests as and/or exacerbates vertical blade play or what might be called backlock lock-rock.

It's not a safety issue, but it is quite annoying to feel blade play when cutting anything more substantial than paper or soft foods.

I've disassembled and examined my Native 5 and other Golden Spydies in contrast to my Japanese Spydies, and have found tolerances to be so close that there is no perceptible slop betweeen the blade pivot hole, pivot pin, and scale pivot holes.

[TkoK83Spy]

It may be a little fancier than the standard version, but I LOVE THIS KNIFE! So slicey and classy looking. Best slicer I own of my 11 Spyderco's.

[anagarika]

It's a thing of wonder, the pakkawood delica or the caly 3 sprint are 2 knives of which one is usually on my person at all times.

I have just one drawback, maybe you guys can help with that. All my lockbacks save for the native 5 have at least some vertical blade play. I never really noticed it until I got a vtoku2 delica which had a quite severe amount of back and forth wiggle once the blade had to cut something with a medium amount of resistance. What exactly causes this and how can I get it right? I've opened the pakkawood delica a few times and played around with the bend pin that supports the lockbar. When the pin is removed the lockbar fits the blade perfectly in opened position so in theory zero vertical play should be possible, but with the proper assembly the tension of the lockbar in opened position I noticed it would lock the blade shut just a bit short from ful deployment and causing said blade play.

Does anyone recognize this? What I'd the proper method of fixing this if possible? I hope my English is accurate enough to get my point across! Thanks in advance.

I recognize this. I believe this should to be CQI'ed.

As you noted, and from my experience with several Natives, this is not an issue. I also had a chance to handle couple of Manix 2 back lock knives (one at SFO and one at a local shop), with no play. The Golden models have it figured out.

In terms of fixing it, I am not sure. I took all my Japanese knives apart. Seems like an issue with tolerances between the lock bar and the lock bar notch in the blade. I could be wrong...

Other than that, I do enjoy my G10 Delica.

If there is no slop on the two pivots (lockbar and blade), then it’s what described above.

If you can take them apart, you can peen the lockbar but be careful, you may simply ruin it. To check: take the spring out, wiggle the interface to see where the slop is and peen the area.

Do at your own risk though. I assume you don’t live in the US, where you can just send it to Spyderco.
Good tutorial:
https://youtu.be/HeXhWAqwqCQ
From this author
http://strsbackyardknifeworks.blogspot.com/