What is a "working edge"?

[The Meat man]

Some steels, like Super Blue and HAP40 are said to take extremely sharp edges, but aren't the best in really long-term edge retention. Other steels are supposedly able to take a similar degree of sharpness, lose it quicker, but then last much longer with a "working edge".
What do you consider a working edge to be, generally speaking? An edge that can still shave but not whittle hair? One that can slice copy paper but not shave?

I've seen this term numerous times here on the forum but without much clarification as to what is really meant.

[TriggerThumb]

I take it to mean an edge that is generally useful, but not impractical to maintain under reasonable conditions.

[razorsharp]

Id call a working edge an edge that might not shave, but still cuts effectively. Say with s30v, I might cut a cardboard box into strips and it might not shave anymore. But it will probably hold a similar level of sharpness for the next few boxes. Id call it dull once it cant cut a piece of printer paper.

[Evil D]

For me it's when a steel like S110V will dull to a point where it isn't at peak sharpness anymore but isn't exactly dull and will continue to cut well for long periods of time without becoming so dull that it sucks to use. This is also 100% dependent on what I'm cutting.

Example, there's really no such thing as edge retention on a barber's straight razor since the goal is to keep it as sharp as possible, but you can cut far more cardboard with a S110V blade in one sitting than you'll ever realistically need to do before it's blunt dull to the point where it won't cut anymore.

[SG89]

won't shave but not dull... like a coarse edge

[me2]

A working edge doesn't have a strict definition. If you go until a knife won't cut printer paper, basically any steel will hold that level for a LONG time, literally thousands of feet of cardboard cut.

[farnorthdan]

Depends on what kind of work your doing

[Bill1170]

I agree with the general idea of “it won’t shave but can still slice printer paper” as a handy description of a working edge.

[vivi]

IMO a working edge is one that is unimpressive, but functional. An edge that won't shave, much less whittle hair, but can still turn one piece of cardboard into two with a slice.

I agree that, in the literal sense, working edges don't always work depending on what you're doing. If I have to slice 100 cherry tomatoes for prep a working edge won't cut it.

[The Meat man]

I agree with the general idea of “it won’t shave but can still slice printer paper” as a handy description of a working edge.

Okay that's a good general way to look at it.
Whenever I get a new knife I tend to baby it for awhile. The other day I decided to put my N5 to the test. Cut up a lot of dirty (I work in a metal shop so everything gets impregnated with steel dust) cardboard - about 200 feet - lots of paper, hard plastic, wood, etc. It still sliced copy paper easily but had lost that hair-grabbing sharpness, which got me to thinking what exactly a working edge meant.
I LOVE an edge that can whittle hair but realistically speaking, I don't really NEED an edge that sharp for my EDC tasks.

[Wanimator]

HAP-40 holds a working edge... VG-10 and CTS-BD1 don't. I find HAP-40 to be in the sweet spot between scary sharp edge retention and achieving and wear resistance. At least in my uses. Food prep, cardboard, game processing.

[Evil D]

HAP-40 holds a working edge... VG-10 and CTS-BD1 don't. I find HAP-40 to be in the sweet spot between scary sharp edge retention and achieving and wear resistance. At least in my uses. Food prep, cardboard, game processing.

It all depends on what you're cutting. Don't forget that edge and blade geometry can make a world of difference with any steel.

https://youtu.be/aTk1cFmIImc

[JD Spydo]

This often mentioned topic we speak of often that we call a "Working Edge" is a very interesting concept needless to say. I know some of you are going to think that I'm way too far "Old SchooL" but I've always thought of VG-10 as even having a great working edge. VG-10 is still one of my favorite knife blades to work with (especially in the kitchen). Most of my VG-10 models I'll probably not ever get rid of. And I've always liked the crisp edge I could attain with VG-10.

I've always liked VG-10 much better than S30V and I'm a huge fan of Crucible. My current favorite blade steel M390 sure has a really good edge with a lot of bite to it. But also ZDP-189 has a very penetrating edge as well. But by raw definition I'm not sure what I would put down concerning a "Working Edge"

[curlyhairedboy]

I'd define 'working edge' as any edge keen enough to cut while applying a SAFE amount of force.

A dull knife will still cut - poorly - with an UNSAFE amount of force.

This of course is a function of the material being cut. Many modern steels will hold this definition of working edge on materials that would cripple less abrasion-resistant edges.

[The Meat man]

So how many of you are content with a working edge?

Part of my problem is that I hate to lose that razor sharpness, so I end up constantly touching up my edge even though it's plenty sharp enough to get me through any task.
Kind of a paradox - we like buying premium steels that don't need as much sharpening, but then we end up sharpening them all the time anyway. :)

[Evil D]

So how many of you are content with a working edge?

Part of my problem is that I hate to lose that razor sharpness, so I end up constantly touching up my edge even though it's plenty sharp enough to get me through any task.
Kind of a paradox - we like buying premium steels that don't need as much sharpening, but then we end up sharpening them all the time anyway. :)

Yep, and it's that paradox plus the fact that I don't need that extreme edge retention anymore for my job that has me preferring steels that are easier to sharpen/tougher/take a finer edge. I've never been satisfied with just a working edge but in the past it was important because I used my knife so much in a single day. Now I can do casual daily touch ups and my edge is always sharp.

[p_atrick]

Yep, and it's that paradox plus the fact that I don't need that extreme edge retention anymore for my job that has me preferring steels that are easier to sharpen/tougher/take a finer edge. [...]

That's pretty much my experience. It's also why I've been carrying a 14C28N blade for some time now. Moreover, I find myself looking at the PM2 in 52100 and the VTOKU sprints as opposed to some of the better blade steels in the Spyderco lineup.

[jpm2]

I'd define 'working edge' as any edge keen enough to cut while applying a SAFE amount of force.

A dull knife will still cut - poorly - with an UNSAFE amount of force.

This of course is a function of the material being cut. Many modern steels will hold this definition of working edge on materials that would cripple less abrasion-resistant edges.

Sounds good to me.
I'd add, a working edge is just a step above dull.

[Tucson Tom]

When I am cutting stuff with it, it is a working edge. When it is folded up in my pocket, it ain't workin'

[Bloke]

So how many of you are content with a working edge?

Part of my problem is that I hate to lose that razor sharpness, so I end up constantly touching up my edge even though it's plenty sharp enough to get me through any task.
Kind of a paradox - we like buying premium steels that don't need as much sharpening, but then we end up sharpening them all the time anyway. :)

Ah, hahaha! :)

I must be the odd man out because I'm quite happy with a true working edge. For example (and at extreme ends of the spectrum) a Dexter Russell fillet knife is either sharp or it's blunt there doesn't seem to be much in between. My Sprig on the other hand doesn't shave or cut paper anymore but still cuts through fish rib bones and lifts fillets basically the same as when it was hair popping sharp. Why sharpen it? Ah, hahaha! :rolleyes:

I don't rightly know but I'm inclined to think the blade steel ultimately determines whether you end up with a 'working edge' or a plain old blunt edge.