Quick 52100 patina setup

[jpm2]

Vinegar is also good for removing rust.

[arnold ziffle]

drops of mustard. two times a half hour each. what the heck, an old opinel.

[Evil D]

Vinegar is also good for removing rust.

This is true but how does this effect a non stainless steel? Since it will also create a patina, does it also remove rust? I've used vinegar baths to remove rust from parts before but those parts are usually chromed. My Maxamet Native has some rust on it that refuses to buff off, I wonder what'll happen if I soak it in vinegar for a few days?

[Larry_Mott]

Acid washing is certainly off my map. Can't see how adding 1000's of micro pores should make anything better.. Not that into stone washing either, but at least that doesn't "damage" the blade :)

[Evil D]

Acid washing is certainly off my map. Can't see how adding 1000's of micro pores should make anything better.. Not that into stone washing either, but at least that doesn't "damage" the blade :)

I once tried to acid/stonewash a Para 2 with ferric chloride and left it soaking for too long. It ate off just enough steel to create a whole bunch of blade play in every direction. I sold it for cheap to a guy who wanted a beater but it was about a $100 lesson learned.

[Larry_Mott]

Acid washing is certainly off my map. Can't see how adding 1000's of micro pores should make anything better.. Not that into stone washing either, but at least that doesn't "damage" the blade :)

I once tried to acid/stonewash a Para 2 with ferric chloride and left it soaking for too long. It ate off just enough steel to create a whole bunch of blade play in every direction. I sold it for cheap to a guy who wanted a beater but it was about a $100 lesson learned.

Well, mistakes is the best teacher :)
Btw, (Sal?) what would shot peening do to a blade, looks and hardness/hardening wise? I have never seen it done as far as i know..

[hambone56rx]

don't have 52100, but put my M4 steel to apple vinegar for around 8 hours, then use Brasso to brush it for 2 hours to create gradient color. here are the result

Now that Patina looks great! Almost like an Acid Wash is what I see. Did it really take 2 hours? Was that on a buffing wheel or by hand? Thanks for the pictures!

[Evil D]

Acid washing is certainly off my map. Can't see how adding 1000's of micro pores should make anything better.. Not that into stone washing either, but at least that doesn't "damage" the blade :)

I once tried to acid/stonewash a Para 2 with ferric chloride and left it soaking for too long. It ate off just enough steel to create a whole bunch of blade play in every direction. I sold it for cheap to a guy who wanted a beater but it was about a $100 lesson learned.

Well, mistakes is the best teacher :)
Btw, (Sal?) what would shot peening do to a blade, looks and hardness/hardening wise? I have never seen it done as far as i know..

That's an interesting question, as shot peening is a common thing done to aftermarket engine components like connecting rods. I really wonder how that would effect H1, if it would add any work hardening sorcery..

[Larry_Mott]

That's an interesting question, as shot peening is a common thing done to aftermarket engine components like connecting rods. I really wonder how that would effect H1, if it would add any work hardening sorcery..

I have had that thought come and go since i read about a small block Chevy race engine. I agree it would be most interesting to hear from the mothership if it has ever been tested and how it came out.

[Evil D]

That's an interesting question, as shot peening is a common thing done to aftermarket engine components like connecting rods. I really wonder how that would effect H1, if it would add any work hardening sorcery..

I have had that thought come and go since i read about a small block Chevy race engine. I agree it would be most interesting to hear from the mothership if it has ever been tested and how it came out.

I used to have a friend who did glass media blasting for a living. I don't know if that would be the same as shot peening but I had him do some valve covers and a breather lid and the glass media left a really unique finish to the metal. I'm sure the do some experiments with different media for stonewashed finishes.

[Larry_Mott]

I guess so too, but tumbling is a bit different than blasting/peening as the blade just ..well, tumbles around with some abrasives whereas blasting/peening is pretty hard pressure particles "shot" onto the surface. The only thing i know is that the difference between blasting and peening is that peening removes very little material compared to sand/glass/beadblasting.

[jpm2]

Vinegar is also good for removing rust.

This is true but how does this effect a non stainless steel? Since it will also create a patina, does it also remove rust? I've used vinegar baths to remove rust from parts before but those parts are usually chromed. My Maxamet Native has some rust on it that refuses to buff off, I wonder what'll happen if I soak it in vinegar for a few days?

It will etch non stainless.
How have you tried to remove the rust?
0000 steel wool usually takes care of it except in severe cases.

In severe cases where the blade is completely and deeply rusted, degrease and submerge in white vinegar. How long depends on how deep the rust goes. Sometimes it gets it in a couple hours, sometimes takes over night. I've never had to go longer than that.
Remove from vinegar, rinse with fresh water, use 0000 steel wool to get any remaining.

[Evil D]

Vinegar is also good for removing rust.

This is true but how does this effect a non stainless steel? Since it will also create a patina, does it also remove rust? I've used vinegar baths to remove rust from parts before but those parts are usually chromed. My Maxamet Native has some rust on it that refuses to buff off, I wonder what'll happen if I soak it in vinegar for a few days?

It will etch non stainless.
How have you tried to remove the rust?
0000 steel wool usually takes care of it except in severe cases.

In severe cases where the blade is completely and deeply rusted, degrease and submerge in white vinegar. How long depends on how deep the rust goes. Sometimes it gets it in a couple hours, sometimes takes over night. I've never had to go longer than that.
Remove from vinegar, rinse with fresh water, use 0000 steel wool to get any remaining.

I've only tried polishing with Flitz, I didn't want to change the stonewashed finish.

[jpm2]

Vinegar is also good for removing rust.

This is true but how does this effect a non stainless steel? Since it will also create a patina, does it also remove rust? I've used vinegar baths to remove rust from parts before but those parts are usually chromed. My Maxamet Native has some rust on it that refuses to buff off, I wonder what'll happen if I soak it in vinegar for a few days?

It will etch non stainless.
How have you tried to remove the rust?
0000 steel wool usually takes care of it except in severe cases.

In severe cases where the blade is completely and deeply rusted, degrease and submerge in white vinegar. How long depends on how deep the rust goes. Sometimes it gets it in a couple hours, sometimes takes over night. I've never had to go longer than that.
Remove from vinegar, rinse with fresh water, use 0000 steel wool to get any remaining.

I've only tried polishing with Flitz, I didn't want to change the stonewashed finish.

Steel wool shouldn't affect the finish. edit: I just rubbed mine with steel wool and it didn't do anything to the finish.

[gmhauy]

don't have 52100, but put my M4 steel to apple vinegar for around 8 hours, then use Brasso to brush it for 2 hours to create gradient color. here are the result

Beautiful result, congratulations.
Did you use cold vinegar, or was it warm at the start?

Gerard

[anoir]

don't have 52100, but put my M4 steel to apple vinegar for around 8 hours, then use Brasso to brush it for 2 hours to create gradient color. here are the result

Beautiful result, congratulations.
Did you use cold vinegar, or was it warm at the start?

Gerard

no. i didn't.
I just put into a box with cold apple vinegar for 8 hours, but i thought it was too "dark". So I use Brasso to brush it for 2-3 hours afterwards.
no warm at all

[gmhauy]

don't have 52100, but put my M4 steel to apple vinegar for around 8 hours, then use Brasso to brush it for 2 hours to create gradient color. here are the result

Beautiful result, congratulations.
Did you use cold vinegar, or was it warm at the start?

Gerard

no. i didn't.
I just put into a box with cold apple vinegar for 8 hours, but i thought it was too "dark". So I use Brasso to brush it for 2-3 hours afterwards.
no warm at all

Thank you.

Gerard