Can Spyderco improve the Back Lock or is it at its peak?

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Regarding the back locks used on Spyderco knives such as the Endura, Delica, and Pacific and Atlantic Salts, and others: Can the back lock be improved in any way or is it at its optimum peak of performance as it stands? If it can be improved, how? Could it be made even stronger?

[koenigsegg]

They made a special stronger back lock for the Tatanka

[ZrowsN1s]

The lock up on the fcf native was about as tight and solid as it could be. I don't think they could have done better.

[BelgiumRofls]

Native 5 lock is pretty much perfection. Chaparrals have internal stop pins. Presumably there is some advantage to that.

[vivi]

I think adding a stop pin is a good move. I'd like to see that on some of the bigger lockbacks like the Police and Manix.

[The Deacon]

Only "improvement" I'd like to see is for them to ditch the **** Boye dent on the Stretch 2.

[Bloke]

Only "improvement" I'd like to see is for them to ditch the **** Boye dent on the Stretch 2.

Ah, hahaha! :p

[Evil D]

At this point I don't think it can be much better without having a negative effect on operation. The back spring can always be made stronger, it can be made to engage the tang deeper, but then you end up with a Tri-ad lock that practically takes 2 thumbs to press in.

[phaust]

It's probably close to as good as it gets without getting more complex, like in the Triad, the version with the internal stop pin, power lock, and the like. That said, I'd be kind of curious to see if you could do a ceramic ball interface on the part touching the tang (a la CRKs with the frame lock) to make it smoother opening and closing. Maybe it wouldn't matter enough to justify.

[prog_knife]

It's probably close to as good as it gets without getting more complex

The other way to go is simpler. I have a Nilte Raggio with Massimo Fantoni's "Pure Back Lock"-- one springy piece of steel instead of a separate lever and spring. I'll put a picture from Nilte's website below for illustration.

It's lightweight, space-efficient, and provides extremely solid lockup. That said, the advantages are probably minimal for most users, and it makes for a pretty expensive knife.

I think Spyderco's back locks are basically perfect as they are.

[vivi]

At this point I don't think it can be much better without having a negative effect on operation. The back spring can always be made stronger, it can be made to engage the tang deeper, but then you end up with a Tri-ad lock that practically takes 2 thumbs to press in.

My Voyagaers (the only triad locks I own) operate very smoothly one handed. I'd love to see the tri-ad lock on my favorite Spyderco lockbacks because I think it improves on the backlock while not making it too complicated.

This one is only a month old:



Not sure if I'm missing something but they're just as easy to use as any Spyderco lock-back I own. Why the comment about two thumbs?

[Evil D]

Not sure if I'm missing something but they're just as easy to use as any Spyderco lock-back I own. Why the comment about two thumbs?

Because every one I've handled was a PITA to unlock :confused:

Maybe they just take some breaking in.

[xceptnl]

I don't see a place for practical improvement with the mid-lock. Sure, we can always wish for mythical improvements in function or feel, but I have never handled one (and the count has been numerous) that made me think, "this is a flaw and needs to be improved". I think further improvements could be made, but I question the financial and simplicity cost.

[Larry_Mott]

And i have never understood the need for Massey-Ferguson locks. Sure it's impressive when CS move mountains with their knives, but seriously - who has ever applied a lot of force against the lock?? Unless you have a blade upside down it should be plenty strong as is.

[ThePeacent]

Not sure if I'm missing something but they're just as easy to use as any Spyderco lock-back I own. Why the comment about two thumbs?

Because every one I've handled was a PITA to unlock :confused:

Maybe they just take some breaking in.

I have some experience with TriAds. No, they are no Dragonflys but they aren't a "two handed lock" either



they do need a breaking in period in most cases. To me the Spyderco lockback is good enough, strong and simple to operate :spyder:

[Evil D]

Well to be fair I haven't handled many, because the first was an American Lawman and it was so tight in the pivot and lock I just laughed and handed it back to the shop guy. This was back around the time I bought my first Spyderco which was the original Native LW, and the difference in operating those two locks was ridiculous so I went with the Native. Between the lock operating better and having a better steel it was just the better bargain. That lock is definitely strong but the design and steel options didn't wow me either so it's a package deal.

[vivi]

Well to be fair I haven't handled many, because the first was an American Lawman and it was so tight in the pivot and lock I just laughed and handed it back to the shop guy. This was back around the time I bought my first Spyderco which was the original Native LW, and the difference in operating those two locks was ridiculous so I went with the Native. Between the lock operating better and having a better steel it was just the better bargain. That lock is definitely strong but the design and steel options didn't wow me either so it's a package deal.

I hear you there. The hole vs stud makes me about 90% more interested in a Spyderco from that alone, but I do see appeal in some of CS designs. That Voyager in the video is about the same size and weight as a Military, with a very wide, comfortable handle. Sometimes I'd rather carry my thinner, lighter Pacific Salt, but sometimes I want that thicker handle if I anticipate more cutting during the day. CTSBD1 is also a favorite of mine, I love how it sharpens up in my Ronin 2 and Voyagers.

As far as the locks go I think the stop pin takes pressure off the lock bar when say, chopping into something or doing very heavy push cuts. I don't necessarily need the super deep engagement of the tri-ad, Spydercos backlock has served me flawlessly, but the stop pin is all good in my eyes.

It would be interesting to take a standard endura and an endura with an internal stop pin added, and compare how strong they are.

[Wanimator]

It's probably close to as good as it gets without getting more complex, like in the Triad, the version with the internal stop pin, power lock, and the like. That said, I'd be kind of curious to see if you could do a ceramic ball interface on the part touching the tang (a la CRKs with the frame lock) to make it smoother opening and closing. Maybe it wouldn't matter enough to justify.

I have said this multiple times before. It's a project I've had my mind on.