My poor Military, please HELP!

GarageBoy · #21

Well, if you drop it on the pointy, thin tip, it's gonna break, what do you expect? That's like saying a Ferrari should survive 20 mph crashes since it's well made

LJK · #22

Garageboy:
I guess I've been lucky. I've dropped my ss delica (aus 6) many times and bent the tip nothing more. My P-millie went flying out of my hand whilist practicing spydie drops, took a large chip out of a saltillo tile nothing more. I'm surprised the Military, classified as a high performance folder for heavy use would break off like that. It also seems like more than just the tip no? Do you suppose an S30V Milli would have fared any better?

GarageBoy · #23

Well 440V is known to be brittle. Heavy use means heavy cutting as the millie is full flat ground with distal taper (I think). Keep pointy side up!

#24

Maxfior,

Definitely give Amanda in warranty and repair a call we'll help in any way possible.

800-525-7770 X255 or 303-279-8383 X255 -M-F 7:30-4:30

Joyce @ Spyderco

HoB · #25

I believe there used to be the option to get a new blade for knifes that are not discontinued. I don't now if something else changed when the Milli went from CPM440V to S30V but I would definitely call an ask if it is still an option. It is NOT free of charge, but I believe it used to be something like $25 plus shipping. However, Spyderco might decline to do it, if they determine that the handle integrity is compromised (after several years of use).

Otherwise, regrinding with a Dremel or diamond files and resharpening with coarse stone shouldn't be too hard.

HoB · #26

I believe there used to be the option to get a new blade for knifes that are not discontinued. I don't now if something else changed when the Milli went from CPM440V to S30V but I would definitely call an ask if it is still an option. It is NOT free of charge, but I believe it used to be something like $25 plus shipping. However, Spyderco might decline to do it, if they determine that the handle integrity is compromised (after several years of use).

Otherwise, regrinding with a Dremel or diamond files and resharpening with coarse stone shouldn't be too hard.

Comm'on guys, if you hit a concrete floor from 6 ft with the tip just right, pretty much any knife tip will break, except in knifes were the tip rather bends than breaks...which isn't all that much better. With the exception of knifes that aren't hardened enough or maybe have an unsharpened tanto point.

maxfior · #27

HoB wrote:I believe there used to be the option to get a new blade for knifes that are not discontinued. I don't now if something else changed when the Milli went from CPM440V to S30V but I would definitely call an ask if it is still an option. It is NOT free of charge, but I believe it used to be something like $25 plus shipping. However, Spyderco might decline to do it, if they determine that the handle integrity is compromised (after several years of use).

Otherwise, regrinding with a Dremel or diamond files and resharpening with coarse stone shouldn't be too hard.

Hey all, I talked to Amanda and she said that a check payable to Spyderco for $25.00 will solve all my troubles. So, now all I have to do is part with my baby, it'll be hard, but I guess I can fall back on my GIN-1 Native. There is nothing like the Military. I also guess that they are going to hook me up with the better steel blade, unlike my 440. Even though... she has been a trusty knife and it's the people behind Spyderco that will make me a LIFETIME buyer! Thanks ALL!!! :D

Sword and Shield · #28

I'd reshape it and use it as a beater knife. What more can you do to it?

denn · #29

sorry to hear that Max. to me it sounds like "the usual", because i've had this with many knives, especially Spydies actually.

i always just take a coarse sharpening stone and grind it from the edge down to the spine in a strong drawing motion, following the general curvature of the blade. once you've established a pointy tip again, you can resharpen the part you grinded (start with a coarse stone, you'll need it since it's now very dull edge around the tip). never grind from the spine to the edge, because it will look like crap in the end, and be careful with power-tool grinders because they can ruin the tempering of the steel. elbow-grease is usally the best method in cases like this

granted a crude method, and you'll end up with a Mili with a ParaMili bladelength ;-), but that's the general method of 'fixing' such problems. ofcourse you can always buy a new Mili, or see if the guys at Spyderco-service are in a benevolent mood :-).

good luck,
dennis

fret · #30

My Grandfather always told me,"you never miss the old shoe until you throw it out." He's right. I'd get the blade replaced and keep the old handle. That way you will still have your "old best friend".

maxfior · #31

fret wrote:My Grandfather always told me,"you never miss the old shoe until you throw it out." He's right. I'd get the blade replaced and keep the old handle. That way you will still have your "old best friend".

Fret, I have to agree with you... There is NOTHING like a trusty blade that you've had at your side for years... :cool:

M.

Stuart Ackerman · #32

Replacing the blade is cost effective.
Reshape the broken blade into a Warncliffe profile, and keeping it somewhere safe, along with the allen keys to change it, is even better. Remember the early Spyderco Terzuola? Good profile to consider as a spare.

Stu

maxfior · #33

zackerty wrote:Replacing the blade is cost effective.
Reshape the broken blade into a Warncliffe profile, and keeping it somewhere safe, along with the allen keys to change it, is even better. Remember the early Spyderco Terzuola? Good profile to consider as a spare.

Stu

I would like to keep the blade, but I guess I have to send the whole thing (complete) in-order for them to give me a new one... :o

M.