JD Spydo wrote:So are you saying that the Dodo model as we already know and love it with some modifications is what you want?
It definitely would perform better in FFG. Thick/low hollow or saber grinds just do not compare to FFG when it comes to corrugated. Some of the "wedging" can be offset if you're able to angle the blade during the cut, but you just can't cheat physics and a thinner ground blade is always going to perform better regardless of edge type.
It's not very often that I disagree with my good pal EVIL D but in this case I'm just a bit confused maybe. Because I normally would say that Full Flat Grind and Spyderedges are truly the best combo for the most aggressive cutting. But with the Dodo being such a short and unique variant of a Reverse S blade it already has good and aggressive cutting properties ( especially in Spyderedge). In this case I really would be hesitant to change the original blade design and geometry because this is a classic case of >> "If It Isn't Broke Then Let's Not Try To Fix It"
I'm basing my evaluation of the Spyderedged version of the Dodo in actual personal hard use. My results were great when I used it on cardboard>> second to that model my G-10 Harpy in SE also did well in cutting cardboard. It does make me wonder what the original Yojimbo would have been like in full SE for jobs like cardboard and fibrous materials?
JD Spydo wrote:
It's not very often that I disagree with my good pal EVIL D but in this case I'm just a bit confused maybe.
Just ask yourself how making the grind thinner and less prone to wedging could hurt performance. Heck just compare slicing between a Dodo and a Catcherman..thinner will always bind less when cutting deep into rigid materials.
I was most surprised to find a not so sharp Roselli Hunter (3.2 mm blade stock with a Zero Scandi Grind) cut 1.5mm solid cardboard with what I perceived to be less effort than a screaming sharp ZDP-189 Stretch off a 600grit stone. :confused:
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin
This discussion has brought up more questions than answers for sure and the more thought going into the subject, the further the waters seem to muddy in variable. I much appreciate all of the offerings Spyderco has allowed us to experience first hand to see what we find works for our uses. Huge thanks to all of the contributors to this thread for the brain food! I think another point of mention is the characteristics of a particular steels' cutting performance as a huge factor in what the user finds works best, although I'd still factor the overall geometry and heat-treat as being optimal for cardboard cutting overall. I'd look forward to seeing a few other super steels make their way to some of the Seki models (Delica and Endura come to mind :D), as we're seeing S30V and even K390 make their way into a few designs.
As mentioned, an EDC knife is carried more in mind to perform a variety of daily tasks well, and not really super excel at any one thing.
When I worked in a warehouse, where we cut tons of cardboard and those nylon bundle strap things, I used a dedicated razor knife for that rather that my EDC. Cardboard is really tough on an edge. I think I read here on the forums once that many cardboard types contain silica too. Basically sand.
I’ll use my EDC on cardboard on occasion when needs be, but it sure wouldn’t be daily. Razor knives are just so much better designed for that.
joe58 wrote:I
I’ll use my EDC on cardboard on occasion when needs be, but it sure wouldn’t be daily. Razor knives are just so much better designed for that.
I keep a Gerber EAB Lite Pocket Knife on my desk for cardboard breakdown. Best 8 bucks I ever spent.
