wrdwrght wrote:I don't like inserting myself into "customer relations", but, given the recent reworking of the warranty and ensuing clarifications, I'm surprised you weren't offered a replacement.
As I understand it, you never disassembled your knife, you only tried to adjust the pivot screw, which, because of loctite, resulted in you stripping the screw or FRN.
I don't recall in the previous warranty that adjusting the pivot--so as to get a desired blade swing--was verboten...
You didn't disassemble your knife, right?.
Correct - I was unable to do so. Not a big deal, but I figured they would have the ability in house to loosen that sucker up. But, it may not a loctite issue - I tried a blow dryer to heat it up, and 4-5 more tricks other forum members suggested. That pivot screw is just not going to come undone.
I will deal with a rusty pivot. It is what it is.
Hey zmw, did you try putting side pressure on the blade? I have to do that sometimes when loosening the pivot on my linerless salts. Put a fair amount of side pressure on the blade and give a quick turn on the screw to get it to move. I've always been able to get that to work on my salts.
Disclaimer: use common sense when putting side pressure on the blade. :D
Edit: I've never tried it but it seems you could also put the blade in a vise and pull back on the handle while turning the screw?
Another trick I've seen people have success with (but haven't needed yet personally) is to hyper-extend the blade into a cutting board or some such, using this tension on the pivot to effectively jam the d-bolt.
wrdwrght wrote:I don't like inserting myself into "customer relations", but, given the recent reworking of the warranty and ensuing clarifications, I'm surprised you weren't offered a replacement.
As I understand it, you never disassembled your knife, you only tried to adjust the pivot screw, which, because of loctite, resulted in you stripping the screw or FRN.
I don't recall in the previous warranty that adjusting the pivot--so as to get a desired blade swing--was verboten...
You didn't disassemble your knife, right?.
Correct - I was unable to do so. Not a big deal, but I figured they would have the ability in house to loosen that sucker up. But, it may not a loctite issue - I tried a blow dryer to heat it up, and 4-5 more tricks other forum members suggested. That pivot screw is just not going to come undone.
I will deal with a rusty pivot. It is what it is.
Hey zmw, did you try putting side pressure on the blade? I have to do that sometimes when loosening the pivot on my linerless salts. Put a fair amount of side pressure on the blade and give a quick turn on the screw to get it to move. I've always been able to get that to work on my salts.
Disclaimer: use common sense when putting side pressure on the blade. :D
Edit: I've never tried it but it seems you could also put the blade in a vise and pull back on the handle while turning the screw?
I have not tried that, but I went through a serious of tips/tricks. Blow dryer to heat up loctite. Using an eraser to try and "grab" the pivot screw, using super glue to glue to pivot to a dowl and then turn. 1-2 others I can not think of. maybe this voids the warranty, not sure. But the screw keeps on spinning. When I get it back from spyderco I will eventually get frustrated and try some more tricks to loosen the pivot screw.
I assume the lateral force makes the base of the blade catch or cause friction to the pivot screw so it has some to bit on while turning?
mattman wrote:Another trick I've seen people have success with (but haven't needed yet personally) is to hyper-extend the blade into a cutting board or some such, using this tension on the pivot to effectively jam the d-bolt.
Use caution!
Isn't the pivot hole in the blade a circle shape and the FRN is D shaped? So if the FRN is already warped would this still help?
Bodog wrote:If the goal is to own a knife in a manner where you oil it and when it stops working you just buy a new tool then yeah, no disassembly is necessary, but if the goal is to own a knife and not view it as disposable junk then disassembly is pretty necessary, especially when talking about non-stainless metals.
Somebody better tell those 70 year old pinned slip joints that my grandfather gave me they are disposable junk...cause I don't think they know.
I'm not against anyone disassembling their knife if they want but I think your argument is a bit over the top.
All of the pinned knives I received from my grandfather were all highly polished steel blades. Some I have no idea what steel they used. And since they're pinned I have no idea what they look like under the scales. They might be really rusted out, who knows? They're kept for sentimental reasons, not really because they're the best in today's world. Can they get the job done? Again, I don't know. Maybe they're unsafe to use. I couldn't know unless I drilled the pin out. They're safe queens at this point. I'd rather be able to inspect them and use them real confidence but i really can't. The shotgun he gave me, though, I can still use that because I can actually take it apart and make sure the parts are in good condition and if I have any questions I can take it to a gunsmith who can very easily break it down without having to rebuild it upon completion of inspection.
They who dance are thought mad by those who do not hear the music.
I just took mine apart (again) to confirm there's no locktite.
It's been living in my lunchbox 24/7 since I got the native maxamet, unused for a month. It's always moist in there from the ice pak and cold food. No oil and no rust.
For anyone worried about internal rust and can't, or don't want to take their knife apart, I suggest a dab of breakfree every few months, work it in good, wipe off any excess. That's worked a few decades for me.
toomzz wrote:Just forced a patina on my K390 mule yesterday with gun blue, that should prevent it a bit more from rusting, right?
It did not help me, but I left my knife in my bathroom and the mist from showering caused some rust. Everyone else seems to be doing fine with it, so that is likely on me. I wish I had that mule, nice grab!
I've even had this problem with a couple of stainless blade steels. Namely ZDP-189 I found out the hard way was not resistant to food acids at all . But my solution to the problem with ZDP and some of the non-stainless blades I have is a product that's been out for some time. I'm referring to the great rust prevention product that Sentry Solutions makes. I'm speaking of TUF-CLOTH which I've used on all my knife blades for quite some time now.
I'm surprised that no one talks about it much anymore. Because I've just had the best luck with all the Sentry Solutions products. Now they even have a Marine Grade version of the TUF-CLOTH and it works even better. All of their lubrication products are great too>> particularly their dry lube "BP-2000"
My oldest pocket knife is a pinned carbon steel slipjoint. It was bought for me (new) by my dad almost 50 years ago. It has never been disassembled, nor has it been broken. It's in excellent condition, thanks to regular oiling of the two pivots. Thin and sharp, it's a very effective cutter.
Rust is better prevented than cured. I've been carrying the new Police 4 production proto, also made from K390. I like the steel because of the performance properties, but I also know that I must pay attention to maintenance and K390 requires more attention than most stainless steels.
My k390 spotted really quick. Like, I used it the first time I had and at the end of the day there were deep spots. I polished it a little bit but they're still there. After that it hasn't rusted. There's patina but never rust. I've had it over a year now.
Christ is risen from the dead, trampling down death by death, and on those in the tombs bestowing life!
:D 
. But my solution to the problem with ZDP and some of the non-stainless blades I have is a product that's been out for some time. I'm referring to the great rust prevention product that Sentry Solutions makes. I'm speaking of TUF-CLOTH which I've used on all my knife blades for quite some time now.
