PM2 not a hard use folder?

[ZMW]

I grabbed my PM2 for some outside/landscaping work this weekend. I was helping my Dad with his backyard. I normally would grab my Pac salt, but I felt like it was a PM2 day. I only used it a few times, I did not abuse it, but it was some hard use. I cut through some very tough plastic tubing, and trimmed some small Oleander branches with it, using a decent amount of force.

Immediately after, the compression lock became sticky, or slightly warped, and it took a little bit of extra force to unlock the blade. No blade play, blade is undamaged. But, the compression lock is sticky/tough to disengage, and the blade stays put after the lock is disengaged (opposite of free falling if I am not explaining it well).

No major damage, but this is a $120 knife that I figured would hold up better. No abuse, just some hard work.

Maybe I should get a Manix for this type of work, or stick to my Pac Salt. But, it kinda sucks the compression lock could not handle that type of work without having some issues.

Has anyone else experienced this? I may take it apart and see if I notice any damage. Or, maybe send it back to Spyderco for a look...

[Cujobob]

Sounds like it got some crud stuck in it. The Compression Lock is just fine with that sort of work. Clean it, dry it, lube it.

[VashHash]

Yeah I would recommend cleaning it too. Doesn't sound typical for a pm2 to be having issues after that. Wouldn't even call that "hard use" unless you beat it with a hammer through the tubing.

[ejames13]

Either crud stuck in the lock as mentioned above, or possible one of the screws started to loosen. I've had PM2's where the lock became sticky and action was messed up because a stop pin screw started backing out.

[ZMW]

No hammering with it, just a good amount of downward force being applied to the blade. I will take apart, clean, inspect, and get back to you guys with results. But I gotta say, I doubt it was any debris. I hope I am wrong. But, the lock worked fine until one of the cuts I made to a small branch, used some good force, then the lock was very sticky - but the blade was only in contact with my hand.

I will review and hopefully you guys are right!

[ZMW]

"I've had PM2's where the lock became sticky and action was messed up because a stop pin screw started backing out.'

I could see that being a potential issue as well. I will check it out

[Ryno]

I've batoned the $hit out of my M4 PM2 and haven't had any issues with the lock or pivot.

[JD Spydo]

I just got a new Para2 in 110V just recently and I have not EDCed it as of yet>> but I do plan on putting it in my EDC rotation for sure. However I can comment on my C-36 Military models which I use a lot and that model is the Big Brother and to some degree the grandfather of the Paramilitary models. I can speak immediately from the standpoint of my extremely hard and demanding uses I've put several of my Military models through over the years and without exception they've endured some harsh and demanding work. My current EDC is my M390 Military model which I've taken through some hellish jobs and very demanding situations and it comes out unscathed every time.

Now I realize that the Para2 has a different locking system than does the C-36 Military but I've had other compression locks that I've not had problems with. First off I would recommend you trying dry lubes instead of wet, oily lubes on your compression lock. I did that with my Ball Bearing Lock Spyders and it made a world of difference. Now I've still been using Militec to lube my M390 Military and so far so good on that one but again it's a different locking system.

Your dilemma has got me baffled in a sense because I just recently used one of my Spyderhawk models for a very dirty, demanding job and I had no problems at all other than the fact I had to do an extensive cleaning on it. And your Para2 is a lot sturdier built than my FRN Spyderhawk is I can assure you. You might just send it back to "warranty & repair" at Spyderco and have them check it out because they do stand behind those USA made units very well. But this is baffling to me somewhat and I hope we can figure out what the core of the problem is.

[ZMW]

Alright, took the knife apart and cleaned. A little debris but nothing in the way. Cleaned and lubed, put it back together and there was still that grit/stick when disengaging the lock. So, I took it apart again, inspected, I can only see super minor damage (not sure what to call it, its not really damage, maybe warping?). I put it back together and after the 2nd time, the lock is working fine now, maybe 9/10 times it feels like new.

Trying to attach a few pics, you can not see much but figured I would include.

[ZMW]

Another...

[ZrowsN1s]

clean it good with some 90% rubbing alcohol and make sure there's no sticky stuff on the lock interface from the yard work.

[Brock O Lee]

Immediately after, the compression lock became sticky, or slightly warped, and it took a little bit of extra force to unlock the blade. No blade play, blade is undamaged. But, the compression lock is sticky/tough to disengage, and the blade stays put after the lock is disengaged (opposite of free falling if I am not explaining it well)..

What do mean when you say the lock is slightly warped?

How long have you had this PM2? Sounds to me like it's still new? If so, my gut feel is that it is still breaking in. The hard cutting probably caused the lock to engage deeper than usual, hence the sticking.

[anagarika]

This ^
A folder would have flex and the hard force during use accelerated the breaking in, as mentioned, the lock went into the 'final' position (slightly deeper). If the breaking in is gradual, the mating surfaces will get chance to smooth out each other. If it's sudden, the the 'new' tang area might still be rough causing stickiness.

I don't have PM2. My friend's new PM2 lock was sticky and now better after breaking in.

[ZMW]

This ^
A folder would have flex and the hard force during use accelerated the breaking in, as mentioned, the lock went into the 'final' position (slightly deeper). If the breaking in is gradual, the mating surfaces will get chance to smooth out each other. If it's sudden, the the 'new' tang area might still be rough causing stickiness.

I don't have PM2. My friend's new PM2 lock was sticky and now better after breaking in.

Makes sense, that is likely what happened. thanks for the input.

[JD Spydo]

clean it good with some 90% rubbing alcohol and make sure there's no sticky stuff on the lock interface from the yard work.

That's a great recommendation "Zrow" because I use a lot of that 91% Rubbing alcohol myself. It's safe and pretty much effective as a cleaner, degreaser and it eliminates all kinds of dirt and debris and leaves a clean dry surface. You can take a soft bristle toothbrush to clean the locking system with using that 91% rubbing alcohol and it won't harm it at all.

Like I said earlier you might just try out one of the dry lubes that are on the market. Sentry Solutions has a great one called "BP-2000" but there are a lot of PTFE based dry lubes out there on the market that are also good. It sure made a great deal of difference on a couple of my Ball Bearing Locks especially with the Dodo model.

But if that doesn't help don't hesitate to send it to Spyderco's Warranty & Repair Department. If there is anything at all wrong they will spot it quickly and make it right with you. The Para2 is a premium USA made Spyder and you shouldn't have those types of problems with it.

[chuck_roxas45]

I've always found that a lube won't really make a problem folder better. Either the folder is good and the lube just makes it smoother, or it has some bugs and the lube just hides the problem for a bit.