S110v vs M390 pm2

[npad69]

S110V...Works best with a coarse to med edge finish, something in the 320 to 800 grit range.

Would you say that's like finishing sharpening/touching up with spyderco medium stone?

Thanks

for some reason, i find my spyderco santoku to cut a lot better when i only finish it up with the medium stones. i only touch up on the white stones if i'll be cutting pork while shaving off bits of animal hairs from the skin.

[Ankerson]

S110V...Works best with a coarse to med edge finish, something in the 320 to 800 grit range.

Would you say that's like finishing sharpening/touching up with spyderco medium stone?

Thanks

The Med stones work very well.

[bdblue]

I can't think of any reason to choose M390 over S110V in the Military.

When I heard the S110V was coming out I sold my CTS 204P version. I had previously sold my M390 version, although I did like the light blue.

[Donut]

...not really a plug for KW, but they're the only one I have seen with a pre-order available on the Caly 3 and Meerkat sprints at this point:

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SP113G ... sprint-run

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SP64JP ... sprint-run

Yeah, it really isn't a plug for Knifeworks when you link to Knifecenter twice. :p

I didn't read the pre-cursor, maybe I missed something in there.

[paladin]

Fresh cleaned brown rods come in ca. 600 grit Universal, IIRC.

And that hits right in between the upper & lower limit of Jim's range.

I've had GREAT results with WickedEdge diamond hones on supersteels...a bit pricey, but the only way to fly IMHO!

[krikun98]

Well, you can either do that or polish the edge all the way up. Different types of agression.

[Patronus]

S110V...Works best with a coarse to med edge finish, something in the 320 to 800 grit range.

Would you say that's like finishing sharpening/touching up with spyderco medium stone?

Thanks

The Med stones work very well.

Just wondering, what grit would you use to polish m390, s110v, or elmax? Ive read a lot and I hear mixed things like m390 doing best mirror polished or s110v toothy etc etc

[Ankerson]

S110V...Works best with a coarse to med edge finish, something in the 320 to 800 grit range.

Would you say that's like finishing sharpening/touching up with spyderco medium stone?

Thanks

The Med stones work very well.

Just wondering, what grit would you use to polish m390, s110v, or elmax? Ive read a lot and I hear mixed things like m390 doing best mirror polished or s110v toothy etc etc

I wouldn't because it lowers overall performance by a very large percentage.

[awa54]

...not really a plug for KW, but they're the only one I have seen with a pre-order available on the Caly 3 and Meerkat sprints at this point:

Yeah, it really isn't a plug for Knifeworks when you link to Knifecenter twice. :p

I didn't read the pre-cursor, maybe I missed something in there.

Well basically, nobody else offers pre-order until a few weeks before release, so talking about pre-order of either of those knives right now means KC.

I'd also say that as a newbie to the concept of Sprint run fever, the least frustrating way to successfully get an upcoming Sprint is to pre-order.

[Donut]

...not really a plug for KW, but they're the only one I have seen with a pre-order available on the Caly 3 and Meerkat sprints at this point:

Yeah, it really isn't a plug for Knifeworks when you link to Knifecenter twice. :p

I didn't read the pre-cursor, maybe I missed something in there.

Well basically, nobody else offers pre-order until a few weeks before release, so talking about pre-order of either of those knives right now means KC.

I'd also say that as a newbie to the concept of Sprint run fever, the least frustrating way to successfully get an upcoming Sprint is to pre-order.

Well, you mentioned two different places. I'm not sure if it was a type-o or different information from when you started to when you finished.

Yeah, but... who doesn't like scoring during the hunting? :)

[AndrewM]

I have been using an Urban lately, it doesn't have a locking blade, but does everything I need it to at work and around the house and the standard version of it is about $50, the premium one $65.

I'd like to add a comment here, which I acknowledge some may disagree with...

If your local laws allow a locking blade, personally I would choose a blade that locks.

I haven't had an occasion where a non-locking blade folded in on itself to hurt me (because all my used knives have locks) (and luckily years ago with a swiss army knife with no lock never hurt me), but my father is a solicitor specialising in insurance and litigation, told me about the number of cases he had represented (from both sides of the fence)... Even if one were to successfully sue the manufacturer or supplier (which is unlikely for good brands due to their quality assurance etc, if the user was using he knife as the manufacturer intended), at the end of the day, the user may have lost the use of their hand or fingers.

I have heard the horrific stories and seen the horrific pictures. In my opinion, if laws allow and you can afford a good knife from a good, reliable, trustworthy brand (like Spyderco), spend the extra for that piece of mind and protection. Before an accident, one may ask what a good lock is worth... for those that have lost fingers sensitivity to their fingers due to a cheap knife/non-locking/improper use of a knife etc, I would be comfortable in saying they would agree the extra $, whether it be an extra $10 or an extra $1000, is worth every penny. Unless of course, the user will never be tired, distracted and has perfect use of a blade. In that case perhaps they could risk it.

I am careful with knives and do not abuse them... but I could never understand one choosing a non-locking blade over a locking blade if one had the choice.

Just my 2c.

Disclosure: I am not an expert like many on this site. This is just my opinion and doesn't consider your personal needs/preferences/experience. If a non-locking blade is as safe as a locking blade, then buy any non-locking blade that suit's the user's preferences.

[awa54]

I have been using an Urban lately, it doesn't have a locking blade, but does everything I need it to at work and around the house and the standard version of it is about $50, the premium one $65.

I'd like to add a comment here, which I acknowledge some may disagree with...

If your local laws allow a locking blade, personally I would choose a blade that locks.

I haven't had an occasion where a non-locking blade folded in on itself to hurt me (because all my used knives have locks) (and luckily years ago with a swiss army knife with no lock never hurt me), but my father is a solicitor specialising in insurance and litigation, told me about the number of cases he had represented (from both sides of the fence)... Even if one were to successfully sue the manufacturer or supplier (which is unlikely for good brands due to their quality assurance etc, if the user was using he knife as the manufacturer intended), at the end of the day, the user may have lost the use of their hand or fingers.

I have heard the horrific stories and seen the horrific pictures. In my opinion, if laws allow and you can afford a good knife from a good, reliable, trustworthy brand (like Spyderco), spend the extra for that piece of mind and protection. Before an accident, one may ask what a good lock is worth... for those that have lost fingers sensitivity to their fingers due to a cheap knife/non-locking/improper use of a knife etc, I would be comfortable in saying they would agree the extra $, whether it be an extra $10 or an extra $1000, is worth every penny. Unless of course, the user will never be tired, distracted and has perfect use of a blade. In that case perhaps they could risk it.

I am careful with knives and do not abuse them... but I could never understand one choosing a non-locking blade over a locking blade if one had the choice.

Just my 2c.

Disclosure: I am not an expert like many on this site. This is just my opinion and doesn't consider your personal needs/preferences/experience. If a non-locking blade is as safe as a locking blade, then buy any non-locking blade that suit's the user's preferences.

AndrewM, if you haven't used one of the slipits with a finger choil, then it's hard to understand how secure they are against accidental closure. Not only is the backspring on the Urban fairly firm, but the correct hold (with index finger in the forward choil) blocks the blade very effectively.

Don't get me wrong, I don't dislike locking knives, I just don't see any need for more safety than the UKPK, DKPK, Urban and Squeek offer when doing cutting tasks that they are appropriate for.

I would also be pretty likely to buy a locking Urban (sorry, the Cat is *not* a locking Urban IMO) if it was available, but the slippie version would still probably get more pocket time.

[JD Spydo]

I've been EDCing an M390 MILITARY model for close to 20 months now and it has won my heart over like few other Spyders ever have in the past. I still like the design and style of the C-60 Ayoob model a bit better than I do the C-36 Military but comparing M390 to VG-10 is not even close. I've noticed all kinds of performance improvements with the M390 blade. It just doesn't get dull very easy. I've only given it two extensive sharpenings since I've had the knife. I usually only touch it up on a Ultra-fine benchstone and it shaves just like a well sharpened straight razor :eek:

I also just this week got my hands on a blurple, 110V Para2. I haven't used it yet but when I do I'll dig up this thread and let you all know how they compare. However I just can't imagine the 110V being much better than this M390. The M390 is tough and extremely hard>> it's a bit of a chore to sharpen it but the time spent sharpening it is well worth it.

I would love to see someone like Cliff Stamp or one of the other knowledgable guys do a side by side test on these tow blade steels. I think it would be most interesting to say the least. I can say one additional noteworthy thing about M390>> it is very corrosion resistant>> I haven't seen many supersteels that compare to it in that sector. That was the one bad thing about ZDP-189 that always annoyed me was that steel had virtually none or very little corrosion resistance :confused: This is a most interesting thread>> I want to hear more :)

[Ankerson]

I've been EDCing an M390 MILITARY model for close to 20 months now and it has won my heart over like few other Spyders ever have in the past. I still like the design and style of the C-60 Ayoob model a bit better than I do the C-36 Military but comparing M390 to VG-10 is not even close. I've noticed all kinds of performance improvements with the M390 blade. It just doesn't get dull very easy. I've only given it two extensive sharpenings since I've had the knife. I usually only touch it up on a Ultra-fine benchstone and it shaves just like a well sharpened straight razor :eek:

I also just this week got my hands on a blurple, 110V Para2. I haven't used it yet but when I do I'll dig up this thread and let you all know how they compare. However I just can't imagine the 110V being much better than this M390. The M390 is tough and extremely hard>> it's a bit of a chore to sharpen it but the time spent sharpening it is well worth it.

I would love to see someone like Cliff Stamp or one of the other knowledgable guys do a side by side test on these tow blade steels. I think it would be most interesting to say the least. I can say one additional noteworthy thing about M390>> it is very corrosion resistant>> I haven't seen many supersteels that compare to it in that sector. That was the one bad thing about ZDP-189 that always annoyed me was that steel had virtually none or very little corrosion resistance :confused: This is a most interesting thread>> I want to hear more :)

There is a huge difference between M390 and S110V in my testing.

380 (M390) to 1,080 (S110V) cutting 5/8" manila rope using same model knife, both Military's.

Cut 6,000 Linear ft of cardboard with the S110V Military and it still sliced phone book paper clean.

//forum.spyderco.com/viewto ... =2&t=71555

Here is my S90V vs M390 shootout.... S110V is much better than S90V in testing.

//forum.spyderco.com/viewto ... =2&t=56717

[JD Spydo]

Well Ankerson that's really interesting and thank you for sharing that information with us in a timely manner :) . If 110V is significantly better than M390 then I can't wait to start using this PARA2 110V model ASAP. So you're saying that 110V is even significantly better than S90V? Well I need to start EDCing the Para2 110V blade soon and do a side by side comparison.

I'm telling you that I've had really great overall performance from my M390 Military and if 110V is that much better then I'm just beside myself. Even though I've been somewhat disappointed with the S30V blades I've have used in the past I still have a ton of respect for Crucible and their great line of products. Their version of D-2 has been a really good one for me as well.

It's just been nothing short of "mind blowing" when you consider all the vast improvements that they've accomplished with cutlery steel in the past 10 to 15 years or so. It doesn't even seem like it's been all that long since the knife community regarded ATS-34 as a premium blade steel. Thanks again for sharing that with us Ankerson :)

[David45]

The M390 PM2 is now available in RED at DLT at a better price!