How obtuse is/was your Chaparral factory bevel?

[ryguy76]

With my new CBN rods that I received for Xmas, I successfully re-profiled my Dad's ultra-dull Byrd Tern and then decided with one knife under my belt, I'd attack my most carried knife, thus most sharpened, the Chappie. Now, I knew going into this, that 8Cr13MoV on the Tern was going to be a quicker process than the XHP, but I've been making progress on the SM with the CBN on one side but the process is even more slow than I anticipated due to what is obviously quite the obtuse factory bevel. I've had to remove lots of steel from the shoulder and after 2 separate sessions, I've hit the apex on one side. (I actually find the process soothing and therapeutic, so in no rush).

So my question is... Is the factory bevel obtuse on all the Chappies by design or does it just ends up being what it is based on the "factory grind guy?" If they're all obtuse, is there a benefit to this? I was thinking that due to the blades thinness, maybe a more obtuse bevel is ideal for added strength. I'm at the point that I'd ideally like to make all my knives have a 30º inclusive back bevel and 40º inclusive micro-bevel so I can easily work with the SM for my needs. It's slow for this type of work, but I don't mind... yet.

Thanks.

[Sharp Guy]

I don't know for sure but I'd say the edge on my Chaparral is closer to 20 dps than 15.

[ejames13]

Both Tiawan Spydercos I've had came with obtuse factory bevels. The Sage 1 I had was absurdly obtuse, probably on the order of 50 degrees inclusive. I think that's just the way they do it. I can't see a benefit.

[abbazaba]

Mine was less than 20dps for sure. Same for all my Sages if I remember correctly. No problem doing touch ups on the SM with the factory bevel.

[JimP]

Both Tiawan Spydercos I've had came with obtuse factory bevels. The Sage 1 I had was absurdly obtuse, probably on the order of 50 degrees inclusive. I think that's just the way they do it. I can't see a benefit.

Mine have been the same as yours, don't come close to hitting the apex with a sharpmaker at 40 degrees, the only benefit being that the bevels are small and neat looking...

[ryguy76]

Ok, thanks guys. I'll finish my re-profiling job at 30º inclusive and call her a day.

Another question I have is about when to switch from the CBN rod to the medium rod. Should I be removing ALL evidence of sharpie at the apex? or will leaving a slight bit there for the medium stones provide a less jagged edge?

[Sharp Guy]

Another question I have is about when to switch from the CBN rod to the medium rod. Should I be removing ALL evidence of sharpie at the apex? or will leaving a slight bit there for the medium stones provide a less jagged edge?

I would use the CBN rods until you have a clean apex. Then move to the brown rods.

[ryguy76]

Another question I have is about when to switch from the CBN rod to the medium rod. Should I be removing ALL evidence of sharpie at the apex? or will leaving a slight bit there for the medium stones provide a less jagged edge?

I would use the CBN rods until you have a clean apex. Then move to the brown rods.

Thanks!

[Zatx]

I would use the CBN rods until you have a clean apex. Then move to the brown rods.

Agreed. Sharpen with the CBN's until the knife has a jagged, yet sharp, even bevel. Then move to the browns, doing the same thing. If you're going for a mirror polish on the bevel spend extra time with the brown rods before moving to the fine and ultra fine stones. Those finer white stones won't do anything with the scratches left by the CBN's.

[ryguy76]

I probably could have spent more time on the browns, but am super happy with the sharpness I've obtained on the re-profiling job. I then went on to micro-bevel at 40º. I am guessing that I should be ok to go back to the 30º setting with the brown rods without any detriment to my 40º micro bevel, correct? Just to polish the main bevel some more.

[Jazz]

Can't remember, but I do know I thinned it out a lot, so it must have been bad. I need 15° at least. I can't stand shallow edges. Might be tougher, but try and whittle with it.

[Sharp Guy]

I am guessing that I should be ok to go back to the 30º setting with the brown rods without any detriment to my 40º micro bevel, correct? Just to polish the main bevel some more.

I would think you'd sharpen out your micro-bevel. Either way, I think if I went back and reworked at 30° I think I'd add the micro-bevel again. It doesn't take much to add it.

[ryguy76]

Can't remember, but I do know I thinned it out a lot, so it must have been bad. I need 15° at least. I can't stand shallow edges. Might be tougher, but try and whittle with it.

Yep, I have no way to know what it was, but the actual bevel is at least 2x wider than it was. Maybe even closer to 3x wider. I am happy I reworked it for sure.

I am guessing that I should be ok to go back to the 30º setting with the brown rods without any detriment to my 40º micro bevel, correct? Just to polish the main bevel some more.

I would think you'd sharpen out your micro-bevel. Either way, I think if I went back and reworked at 30° I think I'd add the micro-bevel again. It doesn't take much to add it.

Good point. Hitting the micro-bevel again is no chore even if it stays preserved.