Mule Team 24

A place to share your experience with our Mule Team knives.
Bodog
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Re: Mule Team 24

#21

Post by Bodog »

Steel_Drake wrote:
Bodog wrote:You're just saying if a steel doesn't hold up at 8 dps then it's not for you. That's not giving any deference whatsoever to actual blade geometry or intended use. You're misguiding people and that's not appreciated.
Whether or not a steel works at low edge thicknesses (in practice similar edge thicknesses can be achieved by lowing edge bevel angles or by thinning out a knife behind the edge) is data that some people may find useful. I don't recall at any point advocating that other should similarly thin out their primary grinds and use low edge bevel angles, and for that matter, the kind of knife user that would even consider regrinding the primary grind on their knife or radically lowering the edge bevel angle is going to be fully capable of evaluating for themselves whether those steps are compatible with their anticipated scope of work.

As an aside, this is a picture of my Spyderco Mantra in CPM-M4 with a thinned out primary grind and a ~8 degree per side edge bevel angle after cutting a bag full of zip ties. It did not suffer any ill effects whatsoever.
When I arrest people it's usually 5 to 10 at a time. Those people are zip tied together. I get to test zip ties a lot now. Zip ties, especially the thin ones in your photo, don't really ask for much from a knife. Of course you're going to argue, but I have real life to deal with. Real life lawsuits if I screw up. Even saying that, 8 dps is too thin for any sustained level of sharpness. Go for a behind the edge thickness of about .008-.012" and 15 dps with a good steel. It'll be much better for most applications. Whatever it is you're talking about isn't real life.

Between your posts here and on BF I really, seriously doubt you know what you're talking about in any matter and have even less real life experience to back it up. I could be wrong, that's why I left the caveat that maybe you're just an outlier. If that's the case your opinion is valid, but a substantially irrelevant one. I just hope to hear from you that your experience in the real world is substantially less demanding than most others and that would validate your reviews exponentially.
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Steel_Drake
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Re: Mule Team 24

#22

Post by Steel_Drake »

Bodog wrote:Zip ties, especially the thin ones in your photo, don't really ask for much from a knife.
Those kinds of zip-ties, corrugated cardboard, double layer clamshell packaging, and food prep are the majority of my EDC tasks. My edge geometry choices are tailored to my needs. If I needed a more robust edge geometry, I would of course use one, but why should I throw away cutting ability for a more robust edge geometry than I need? Again, I don't recall ever suggesting others should make similar choices. In general, edge geometry should be tailored to the intended scope of work, obviously.
Go for a behind the edge thickness of about .008-.012" and 15 dps with a good steel.
If you use trigonometry to calculate what edge bevel angles would be required to end up with a thickness of 0.008" at 1/32" behind the apex, the answer is 7 degrees per side, and for .012" thick at 1/32" behind the apex its 11 degrees per side . I'm glad to see we agree on the subject then!

Of course, if the primary grind is thin enough that the transition between primary grind and the edge bevel is less than 1/32" behind the apex, then you can use a higher angle and still end up with the same result.
Last edited by Steel_Drake on Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bloke
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Re: Mule Team 24

#23

Post by Bloke »

I think you're entitled to do as you see fit with a knife you own, all within the law goes without saying. :rolleyes:

Why should anyone care to what angle someone else sharpens their knife or how or why they use, modify ,recoloured, .......? I say more power too you! :)
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Bodog
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Re: Mule Team 24

#24

Post by Bodog »

Steel_Drake wrote:
Bodog wrote:Zip ties, especially the thin ones in your photo, don't really ask for much from a knife.
Those kinds of zip-ties, corrugated cardboard, double layer clamshell packaging, and food prep are the majority of my EDC tasks. My edge geometry choices are tailored to my needs. If I needed a more robust edge geometry, I would of course use one, but why should I throw away cutting ability for a more robust edge geometry than I need? Again, I don't recall ever suggesting others should make similar choices. In general, edge geometry should be tailored to the intended scope of work, obviously.
Go for a behind the edge thickness of about .008-.012" and 15 dps with a good steel.
If you use trigonometry to calculate what edge bevel angles would be required to end up with a thickness of 0.008" at 1/32" behind the apex, the answer is 7 degrees per side, and for .012" thick at 1/32" behind the apex its 11 degrees per side . I'm glad to see we agree on the subject then! :D

Of course, if the primary grind is thin enough that the transition between primary grind and the edge bevel is less than 1/32" behind the apex, then you can use a higher angle and still end up with the same result.
My point exactly. Thanks for clarification. They're your knives, have fun.

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porknocker
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Re: Mule Team 24

#25

Post by porknocker »

First of all, let me say that you guys are all far more educated and smarter than me on this subject. I have just got a Mule team 24 and am very impressed with it. However I would like to keep it sharp and I am basically happy with the angle and sharpness that it came from the factory. It works for me until I want to experiment but for now I just want to keep the same angle. Does anyone know what is the general angle the the blade came from the factory so I can touch up the blade at the same angle as I use it. Sorry for the basic question but I do not have a way of measuring the angle without blacking the blade and trial by sharpening, rather would start with what the knowledgable guys at Spyderco figured was a good angle.
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Re: Mule Team 24

#26

Post by Bodog »

porknocker wrote:First of all, let me say that you guys are all far more educated and smarter than me on this subject. I have just got a Mule team 24 and am very impressed with it. However I would like to keep it sharp and I am basically happy with the angle and sharpness that it came from the factory. It works for me until I want to experiment but for now I just want to keep the same angle. Does anyone know what is the general angle the the blade came from the factory so I can touch up the blade at the same angle as I use it. Sorry for the basic question but I do not have a way of measuring the angle without blacking the blade and trial by sharpening, rather would start with what the knowledgable guys at Spyderco figured was a good angle.
I could be wrong (and probably am) but I think spyderco tries to stay at about 15 degrees per side. At least I think I remember Sal saying that at some point. I'm sure the knives don't come at a perfect angle, though, especially when sent in for resharpening and the sharpener is a guy just grinding by hand.

And if you jumped into the Maxamet pool I'm sure you know more than you let on. Or at least you're on your way to being a certified knife nut. Pretty soon you'll be off the deep end using and testing all kinds of steels on all kinds of stuff in all kinds of ways and then you'll be here squabbling about what's best with the rest of us!

Anyway, IMO, if you need to go less than 15 dps (degrees per side) then your knife is probably too thick behind the edge to begin with unless you're pretty much only cutting paper or sushi or something. Half of the fun is figuring out what works best for you, even if others disagree :)
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Steel_Drake
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Re: Mule Team 24

#27

Post by Steel_Drake »

porknocker wrote:Does anyone know what is the general angle the the blade came from the factory so I can touch up the blade at the same angle as I use it.
I didn't want to just guess as to what the edge bevel angles are on my Maxamet Mule, so I got out my micrometer calipers and actually measured. The edge bevel width at the point I measured was 0.035" wide, and the thickness at the shoulder was 0.020".

Image

The measurements in green were taken by me and entered into an online triangle calculator and the angles are computed by the site. It would seem that my Mule has an edge bevel angle of ~16 degrees per side.
Steel_Drake
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Re: Mule Team 24

#28

Post by Steel_Drake »

On another, somewhat surprising note: A few days ago I was curious to see what would happen if I tried to polish the edge bevels on my Maxamet Mule (which had a DMT EEF finish at the time) on a Spderco M and Spyderco UF benchstone, as I had no idea if the Spyderco solid sintered ceramic stones would even work on Maxamet at ~68 HRC. Now please note that I am not recommending that anyone use the Spyderco solid sintered ceramic stones to sharpen Maxamet, as they obviously cut very slowly compared to several alternative types of abrasives. This was an experiment to see what would happen, and not an approach I would normally take to sharpening.

The results were pretty interesting:

Image
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As you can see, the Spyderco M and UF appeared to have no issue achieving a mirror polish, albiet slowly, on Maxamet. I also took some USB microscope images comparing the scratch pattern left by the Spyderco UF on Maxamet to what the same stone leaves on a pure carbon steel:

Image
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These images seem to indicate that even at this level of magnification no qualitative differences can be visually identified that would tell you the Spyderco UF was not working correctly on Maxamet. Subjectively, the apex produced by the Spyderco M and then by the Spyderco UF appeared to have the expected balance between push-cutting sharpness and slicing aggression as I would expect a Spdyerco M and UF to normally produce.
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Re: Mule Team 24

#29

Post by Bodog »

I'm pretty sure the ceramic stones are harder than 68 RC. It's not surprising that a stone harder than the steel matrix was able to cut the steel matrix. Whether it was cutting the carbides in the steel is another matter considering we don't really know what the carbides actually consist of. If the only carbide forming element was vanadium then we could for sure know the ceramic stone wouldn't cut the carbides. But with chromium and tungsten and vanadium and some other carbide formers you'd have to rank the carbide formers in line with when they form into carbides vs the other carbide formers and whether there's enough carbon to form all of them into carbides.

I'm hoping someone comes along and can break THAT down. It'd be interesting to learn.
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Brock O Lee
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Re: Mule Team 24

#30

Post by Brock O Lee »

Steel_Drake wrote:Whether or not a steel works at low edge thicknesses (in practice similar edge thicknesses can be achieved by lowing edge bevel angles or by thinning out a knife behind the edge) is data that some people may find useful
For what it's worth, I find this type of data very useful... ;)

I also run low angles with 15dps micro bevels without durability issues for light use EDC, in steels ranging from 52100 to S110V.

Image

I might try Maxamet in a folder one day, but for now I have no need for more wear resistance than S90V/S110V/M390/M4 etc.
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bdblue
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Re: Mule Team 24

#31

Post by bdblue »

I like to see the results of grinding bevels to low angles, to see how well it works because I'm not going to try it myself. Reading a few years ago it seemed to be accepted that normal knife use required 40 degree inclusive, if you were adventuresome you could go 30 degrees per side for lighter use. Since then I've seen people go lower and sometimes it works.

Regarding Maxamet, I seem to remember reading where Spyderco was suspicious that Maxamet did not have enough toughness to be useful as a knife blade. Now the description printed in the catalog implies that the steel has high toughness. If you are going to sharpen at low angles then you need high toughness, so the people attempting this are performing their own experiments, and I'm interested in hearing the results. Actually I'm interested in reading any tests regarding Maxamet. I want to believe it is a super steel, just like I thought K390 was a super steel when it came out in the Mule. Then I read a test where the standard S110V Military surpassed the Maxamet Mule in cutting performance which surprised me because of the reputation of Maxamet and because the Mule seemed to have a thinner edge geometry than a Military that I compared. So I'd like to see more tests that show that Maxamet is super stuff.
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Re: Mule Team 24

#32

Post by EDC Honeybee »

Bodog wrote:I'm pretty sure the ceramic stones are harder than 68 RC. It's not surprising that a stone harder than the steel matrix was able to cut the steel matrix. Whether it was cutting the carbides in the steel is another matter considering we don't really know what the carbides actually consist of. If the only carbide forming element was vanadium then we could for sure know the ceramic stone wouldn't cut the carbides. But with chromium and tungsten and vanadium and some other carbide formers you'd have to rank the carbide formers in line with when they form into carbides vs the other carbide formers and whether there's enough carbon to form all of them into carbides.

I'm hoping someone comes along and can break THAT down. It'd be interesting to learn.
Could you do a short "explain it like I'm 5" on the difference between polishing the steel matrix and cutting the carbides?
I have read 4 knife-making books, but none of them go into any real depth on carbides besides dealing with the size of the carbides in forging. Would like to have a little more of your knowledge if you dont mind sharing :)

-How can a ceramic grind down the steel without also cutting the carbides? What do you mean by cutting the carbides?
-Will a DMT formed edge and a ceramic formed edge cut differently (assuming the carbides in the steel cant be cut by the ceramic, but can be cut by the DMT)? Will the edges have different durability?
-Do you have a source for what steel's carbides can and cannot be cut on ceramic? 1084? 8cr13? VG-10? S30v? S110?

Any info you can share is appreciated. This is the side of the hobby where I feel a lot of the information is held by a few smart individuals and it is tough to find good sources for practical info if you are not a metallurgist.
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Re: Mule Team 24

#33

Post by Bodog »

EDC Honeybee wrote:
Bodog wrote:I'm pretty sure the ceramic stones are harder than 68 RC. It's not surprising that a stone harder than the steel matrix was able to cut the steel matrix. Whether it was cutting the carbides in the steel is another matter considering we don't really know what the carbides actually consist of. If the only carbide forming element was vanadium then we could for sure know the ceramic stone wouldn't cut the carbides. But with chromium and tungsten and vanadium and some other carbide formers you'd have to rank the carbide formers in line with when they form into carbides vs the other carbide formers and whether there's enough carbon to form all of them into carbides.

I'm hoping someone comes along and can break THAT down. It'd be interesting to learn.
Could you do a short "explain it like I'm 5" on the difference between polishing the steel matrix and cutting the carbides?
I have read 4 knife-making books, but none of them go into any real depth on carbides besides dealing with the size of the carbides in forging. Would like to have a little more of your knowledge if you dont mind sharing :)

-How can a ceramic grind down the steel without also cutting the carbides? What do you mean by cutting the carbides?
-Will a DMT formed edge and a ceramic formed edge cut differently (assuming the carbides in the steel cant be cut by the ceramic, but can be cut by the DMT)? Will the edges have different durability?
-Do you have a source for what steel's carbides can and cannot be cut on ceramic? 1084? 8cr13? VG-10? S30v? S110?

Any info you can share is appreciated. This is the side of the hobby where I feel a lot of the information is held by a few smart individuals and it is tough to find good sources for practical info if you are not a metallurgist.
I'm not a metallurgist either but I'll give it a shot.

Steel is like fruit cake. The actual steel itself is the cake and the carbides are the chunks of fruit. Using a stone that's harder than the steel matrix but softer than the carbides is like using a knife that's harder than the cake but softer than the fruit. You'll be able to cut a piece of cake into the general shape you want but as you cut it the pieces of fruit that get in the way of the knife will just tear out of the cake itself. If you cut a thin slice the piece will fall apart because you tore out a bunch of what's inside the cake, though that's a little overgeneralized, depending on the steel.

Steels like D2 have giant but relatively soft carbides like fruit cake having big chunks of peaches. Steels like 10V have small but really hard carbides, like a lot of small raisins. Some of that is from the method of melting, like spray forming or powder metallurgy or casting. Some is from the types of carbides the steel wants to form.

If you want your thin piece of fruitcake to hold up well then you need to refrain from tearing out the pieces of fruit. The thicker the piece of cake the less you need to worry about it.

The steels, like the cake, can be baked in such a way as to hold the pieces of fruit in better than other methods. A lot of people over bake the cake and it becomes dry and brittle and it just falls apart. A lot of people under bake the cake so it doesn't fall apart but it's kind of gummy and mushy.

So your knife needs to he harder than all of the pieces of cake, your knife needs to be sharp enough to cut the pieces of fruit without ripping them out, and the cake itself needs to be baked right.

Using Silicon Carbide or aluminum oxide or sintered ceramics are all harder than most steel, or the cake itself, so you can shape the cake without much issue. They all have different hardnesses but they're all harder than the hardest steel matrices, even at 72 rockwell. But carbides like vanadium are all more like 80 to 90 rockwell (they use the knoop scale at this level) and that's harder than any of the abrasives used except cubic boron nitride and diamonds. Chromium carbides are softer and more along the hardness of silicon carbide.

Now if you're happy with a rough cut, like using a serrated knife to cut the piece of cake, or leaving an edge apex at 400 grit, it doesn't really matter if you tear out all of the carbides although the steel won't cut quite as long. But if you want a fine cut, like 1500 grit or higher, then you don't want the carbides tearing out leaving little holes in the edge bevel.

But here's the thing, if the steel is able to hold the carbides in you can still use the soft knife (soft stone) to cut the cake (edge bevel) but you'll have lumps of fruit (carbides) hanging out of the side of the cake (bevel). Micrographs show this and it looks like a teenager's acne. Some pits and some bumps, but definitely not smooth.

So ideally you want a smooth surface, especially for finer cuts, and that means that you need to cut and smooth the entirety of the cake and fruit, not just the cake.

And when you get into higher alloy steels like Maxamet with several carbide formers, like having different pieces of fruit in the cake, some of the carbides may get cut and some may not depending on the stone used.

And carbides form at different rates. You can only form as many carbides as what the chemical makeup allow.

You need .8% carbon to make a good knife. The rest of the ingredients are going to be a mix of iron and nickel and molybdenum, etc. The really pure knife steels, theoretically, would be .8% carbon and 99.2% iron. Anything after that can be used to form carbides or do other things to the steel to make it act a certain way, but you need carbide forming elements like chromium, tungsten, and vanadium to form carbides. Whatever amount of those that don't get tied up into carbides, carbon + that element, go to doing something else in the steel like keeping grain boundaries small. So let's say you have really accurately tested steel with 1% carbon, 98% iron, and 1% vanadium. .2% of that carbon, theoretically, will get turned into carbides and whatever amount of free vanadium remains pins the grain boundaries if the steel isn't overheated. How much vanadium get left over, I don't know. I don't think it's one for one.

But then you have steels like zdp-189 with a super high amount of carbon and super high amounts of chromium and not many other carbide formers. It'll form a lot of chromium carbides but they're all relatively soft, because chromium is soft. Any chromium not tied to a carbide, ie, free chromium, adds to the corrosion resistance. But in ZDP-189 there aren't many free chromium atoms hanging out so ZDP-189 isn't as stainless as the chromium content alone suggests.

And then you have 10V, which is almost 10% vanadium and a lot of carbon. You have a ton of vanadium carbides and they're all relatively hard.

But then you get to steels like Maxamet where there are a ton of different elements all doing different things to the steel. Some are increasing its hardness, some increasing its toughness, some detracting from its toughness, and some adding to its wear resistance.

For the sake of this post, I don't have the steel chart in front of me, let's say Maxamet has 3% carbon. That leaves 2.2% to form carbides. But there are A LOT of carbide forming elements in there. And the different elements attract the carbon faster than others.

So, in my mind, it could be a bunch of chromium carbides and it'll act like ZDP-189 plus a tiny amount of vanadium and tungsten carbides plus a bunch of free vanadium and tungsten and other alloying elements, if the chromium hogs most or all of the carbon before the vanadium and tungsten can grab some for themselves.

That's where I get lost. I'm sure there are some inaccurate statements in there, I started typing this at 4 on the morning on the way to work. I hope some real metallurgists step in and correct anything I said and/or add to the information.
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EDC Honeybee
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Re: Mule Team 24

#34

Post by EDC Honeybee »

Bodog wrote: Steel is like fruit cake. The actual steel itself is the cake and the carbides are the chunks of fruit. Using a stone that's harder than the steel matrix but softer than the carbides is like using a knife that's harder than the cake but softer than the fruit. You'll be able to cut a piece of cake into the general shape you want but as you cut it the pieces of fruit that get in the way of the knife will just tear out of the cake itself. If you cut a thin slice the piece will fall apart because you tore out a bunch of what's inside the cake, though that's a little overgeneralized, depending on the steel.
Awesome post. Thank you so much. Really helped clear it up in my head. And added something new for my christmas list. I only have ceramics right now, but have a maxamet mule and a couple other high end steels that might benefit from the upgrade. Thanks again!
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Re: Mule Team 24

#35

Post by Skidoosh »

Am I understanding this thread correctly that ceramics cannot sharpen maxamet?
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Re: Mule Team 24

#36

Post by Bodog »

Skidoosh wrote:Am I understanding this thread correctly that ceramics cannot sharpen maxamet?
No, they should be able to get a pretty good edge. Whether the steel is taken to its maximum potential with ceramics is not likely unless the majority of carbides are chromium. Unless you keep a coarse finish, the it'll probably act similarly.
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Re: Mule Team 24

#37

Post by Spook410 »

There is a difference between personal experimentation (which is, of course, a great thing) and maintaining a tool for every day use. I've noticed that those who perform cutting tests use relatively coarse stones and a 15 dps angle. When I cut cardboard or filet a fish or cut through nylon straps, I don't really worry too much that I used diamond stones to sharpen the knife and honestly don't think I would see a difference. I think it's good to have academic insight, but I'm not sure anyone can translate that to an individuals daily use.

And I'm still really liking the Maxamet mule. Mine has picked up a stain or two but that adds character. It's a feature, not a flaw.
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Re: Mule Team 24

#38

Post by Steel_Drake »

Skidoosh wrote:Am I understanding this thread correctly that ceramics cannot sharpen maxamet?
It is currently a matter of some debate in online sharpening forums (see the thread on BladeForums Bodog linked above) whether the theoretical inability of abrasives other than cubic boron nitride (CBN) and diamond to shape vanadium and tungsten carbides translates into any practically detectable effects on the initial sharpness or apex strength of high carbide steels sharpened on other types of abrasives such as silicon carbide or aluminum oxide.

I actually purchased the Maxamet Mule specifically as part of that ongoing discussion and have been sharpening it freehand on a variety of abrasives including aluminum oxide waterstones, silicon carbide waterstones, sintered ceramic benchstones, and diamond plates. I posted some microscope images above in this thread showing that at the power of magnification I can achieve on my USB microscope, no visual differences can be discerned between the scratch pattern left by a Spyderco UF on plain carbon steel and on the Maxamet Mule. I can also tell you subjectively that the initial sharpness felt totally the same as a Spyderco UF apex finish does on any of my other knives.

I am also planning in the near future to make some videos demonstrating sharpening the Maxamet Mule on a few different types of abrasives, checking whether the initial sharpness is in line with expectations for the finishing stone, doing some pine cutting, and then re-checking sharpness to observe whether any catastrophic loss of high sharpness is observed due to carbide tear out.

All of that being said, I would certainly not recommend Spyderco ceramic stones for sharpening steels like Maxamet as the Spyderco stones are going to be very slow to grind these types of steels. I would absolutely recommend diamond plates or silicon carbide waterstones (though again, some would vehemently argue against using SiC waterstones on Maxamet) over the Spyderco ceramics for high carbide, high hardness steels.
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Re: Mule Team 24

#39

Post by Bill1170 »

This is a fascinating discussion. We all wish we could see what's going on at the micro level when high vanadium carbide steels are honed with different abrasives. Our knowledge of hardness and the grain structure of these alloys leads us to form various mental models of what is going on during sharpening, but we still can't SEE what is occurring at the interface in real time, as it occurs.
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Re: Mule Team 24

#40

Post by Bodog »

Bill1170 wrote:This is a fascinating discussion. We all wish we could see what's going on at the micro level when high vanadium carbide steels are honed with different abrasives. Our knowledge of hardness and the grain structure of these alloys leads us to form various mental models of what is going on during sharpening, but we still can't SEE what is occurring at the interface in real time, as it occurs.

There are several people providing electron microscope images of what's happening. A normal microscope can't really show what's happening. It'll show that there are no huge burrs or anything but at the carbide size level you need something zooming in much closer. And it probably won't/can't be done by just simply zooming in. You need to etch and make sure the edge is at specific angles and all that, you might need to submerge the edge in some special fluid or something. I don't know the specifics, I just know there are people that do and saying you're zooming in to just 500 power or whatever isn't showing it.
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