Evil D wrote:I don't technically either, there's a layer of pocket between me and the knife. It could also be from oil off my hand, I have a bad habit of walking around with my hands in my pockets when I'm not working.
You should give the silicone spray a try. I've read Gayle Bradley uses it on his carbon steel blades with good success. I use it on all my knives. I've also once sprayed some mild steel ornamental pieces that used to rust within days, and they've been rust free for more than a year now. Look for a food-safe brand, some brands have some nasty ingredients...
Pretty sure I have a friend who still works in the corrugation industry and we used the food grade stuff on pretty much anything that needed lubed so I'll see if I can get a can from him.
I've had rust issues from carrying M4 even after coating it with Tuf-Glide. Apparently I have really acidic sweat.
Just a quick wipe down with some sort of very mild polish on a paper towel every week or so will restore it to new for ya. It may just have to be a part of your maintenance routine. I have some Maguire's polish for cars that works well and Flitz is super popular. Your's it developing a bit of the brown stuff so I would try to get rid of it.
Evil D wrote:I don't technically either, there's a layer of pocket between me and the knife. It could also be from oil off my hand, I have a bad habit of walking around with my hands in my pockets when I'm not working.
You should give the silicone spray a try. I've read Gayle Bradley uses it on his carbon steel blades with good success. I use it on all my knives. I've also once sprayed some mild steel ornamental pieces that used to rust within days, and they've been rust free for more than a year now. Look for a food-safe brand, some brands have some nasty ingredients...
Pretty sure I have a friend who still works in the corrugation industry and we used the food grade stuff on pretty much anything that needed lubed so I'll see if I can get a can from him.
I've had rust issues from carrying M4 even after coating it with Tuf-Glide. Apparently I have really acidic sweat.
Just a quick wipe down with some sort of very mild polish on a paper towel every week or so will restore it to new for ya. It may just have to be a part of your maintenance routine. I have some Maguire's polish for cars that works well and Flitz is super popular. Your's it developing a bit of the brown stuff so I would try to get rid of it.
Well all I could find was some Turtle Wax rubbing compound, and it was enough to remove the surface rust but there is still some staining on the blade that I can't seem to get rid of, nor can I get through the patina. So, either this compound isn't abrasive enough or I'm doing something wrong. I may have to get myself some Flitz and give that a go.
Evil D wrote:Well all I could find was some Turtle Wax rubbing compound, and it was enough to remove the surface rust but there is still some staining on the blade that I can't seem to get rid of, nor can I get through the patina. So, either this compound isn't abrasive enough or I'm doing something wrong. I may have to get myself some Flitz and give that a go.
Admittedly, I haven't read the last few pages of this thread but I saw you were having issues removing a patina. If highly recommend flitz, I see you're thinking about it. I removed the patina from my SB Caly 3.5 with it a few weeks ago. Good as new. Just some flitz and a rag. Lots of rubbing. Took about 20 mins or so.
Most recently acquired: Military 2, Paramilitary 2 Tanto x2, YoJUMBO, Swayback, Siren, DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390 Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!
For more of my pictures see my Instagram account. @liquid_cobra
Evil D wrote:Well all I could find was some Turtle Wax rubbing compound, and it was enough to remove the surface rust but there is still some staining on the blade that I can't seem to get rid of, nor can I get through the patina. So, either this compound isn't abrasive enough or I'm doing something wrong. I may have to get myself some Flitz and give that a go.
Admittedly, I haven't read the last few pages of this thread but I saw you were having issues removing a patina. If highly recommend flitz, I see you're thinking about it. I removed the patina from my SB Caly 3.5 with it a few weeks ago. Good as new. Just some flitz and a rag. Lots of rubbing. Took about 20 mins or so.
Do you worry about it changing the machining lines in the blade or removing the bug, etc? Do you bother with rubbing with the grind lines or not? Is this something that could cause cross scratches or is it not abrasive enough? I think a local hardware store has the liquid Flitz but I'm not sure if anyone around here carries the paste...is there a difference in how well the liquid cuts vs. the paste?
Most importantly, how the heck do you keep from slicing your finger off? I guess I may need to destress/remove the edge a bit before I do this just to be safe, this is easily the sharpest knife I own and I handle it very very carefully lol.
Evil D wrote:Well all I could find was some Turtle Wax rubbing compound, and it was enough to remove the surface rust but there is still some staining on the blade that I can't seem to get rid of, nor can I get through the patina. So, either this compound isn't abrasive enough or I'm doing something wrong. I may have to get myself some Flitz and give that a go.
Admittedly, I haven't read the last few pages of this thread but I saw you were having issues removing a patina. If highly recommend flitz, I see you're thinking about it. I removed the patina from my SB Caly 3.5 with it a few weeks ago. Good as new. Just some flitz and a rag. Lots of rubbing. Took about 20 mins or so.
Do you worry about it changing the machining lines in the blade or removing the bug, etc? Do you bother with rubbing with the grind lines or not? Is this something that could cause cross scratches or is it not abrasive enough? I think a local hardware store has the liquid Flitz but I'm not sure if anyone around here carries the paste...is there a difference in how well the liquid cuts vs. the paste?
Most importantly, how the heck do you keep from slicing your finger off? I guess I may need to destress/remove the edge a bit before I do this just to be safe, this is easily the sharpest knife I own and I handle it very very carefully lol.
I've only ever used the paste so I can't comment on the liquid. I didn't notice any scratching what so ever from the flitz. I rubbed up and down, left and right, criss cross it didn't seem to make a difference. It only seemed to remove the patina. It didn't leave rub marks behind or anything like that. I've used this stuff on the m4 para 2 from blade HQ when it arrived. There were a few spots on the blade that seemed darker than normal and the flitz took it right out. It had no effect on the grind lines of the blade itself. It did make the blade a little more shiny though, polished.
In both cases I removed the blade and worked on one side at a time. I placed the blade on a table and took my time not to get too close to the edge. I guess I was just cautious and went slow. The edge on both blades was/is pretty sharp. There were a few close calls, I nicked the cloth once or twice. Dulling the edge might be a good idea.
Oh and as far as the bug logo goes, yes that was much more dull looking after the flitz. I can't be certain if that was from the patina or the flitz though. When I used it on the para 2 it didn't seem to affect the bug logo, but I didn't work on it as much as the super blue.
I did notice a mark on the super blue blade where a corrosion pit had started. I must have left some food on it or something. It was starting to pit or something. It took a lot of rubbing but it eventually almost disappeared completely. Now that I think of it, that mark was the whole reason I removed my patina and started over in the first place.
Hope that helps.
Most recently acquired: Military 2, Paramilitary 2 Tanto x2, YoJUMBO, Swayback, Siren, DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390 Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!
For more of my pictures see my Instagram account. @liquid_cobra
Couldn't find Flitz in stores anywhere but I got a can of Mothers. It did remove the rust and patina, but both the rust and patina seem to have etched the finish of the steel enough that when you look at it in the right light you can see where they were. I'm not sure how much better or different Flitz is but I may order a tube just to see. I'm sure if I had caught this sooner I could have removed it but it looks like even the patina has pitted the blade a bit. I'm not too worried about it really, like I've said all along as long as I can keep the pivot and lock face clean I'm happy. I may give this a bit more polish and then force a patina in vinegar.
Any updates from anyone on their 52100 Military? I just got mine today from National Knives for $209. It's really well put together, very good fit and finish. I plan on hopefully getting it really thin to see what kind of performance I can get at acute angles with a very thin edge. It should be a nice palate cleanser compared to the much higher carbide steels that the rest of my Spyderco use.
I just picked one of these up a few weeks ago, and I've been really enjoying it so far.
I had some interesting stuff happen with the factory edge. I cut through some carboard with it, which dulled it very quickly. When I went to touch it up on the medium SM stones, the steel was literally breaking off in little 2-3mm long slivers at the apex. I got a few pieces in my skin like splinters when I went to clean off the excess metal. I've never seen this happen with any other steel. I spent probably 20 minutes or so and couldn't get a clean apex, it just kept flaking off. So I took out the diamond stones and reprofiled it on the 30 degree setting. This took an hour or more because the factory bevel was so obtuse and uneven on the non-presentation side, but once I finished it...wow! I was able to get it wicked sharp.
I'm interested to see how the edge performs now. I don't expect to see the flaking issue again. I thinking there was some damage to the metal from the factory power sharpening.
I really appreciate the CF scales. I think they feel considerably lighter than the standard G10. I've kept the blade pretty well oiled and haven't seen any rusting or staining yet. All in all I'm really happy with this piece.
It's one of my favorites, been in rotation since release. I haven't had any problems with it holding an acute angle, I reprofile at around 12-14* when I first got it with a slightly higher micro and haven't experienced any chipping or rolling. My user has developed a very darn colorful patina from normal use, looks good I think.
Happy to be part of this great forum and group of down to earth spyderco addicts, Thanks Sal and gang. My Grails:Lum Tanto folder sprint, Sprint Persian(red), Captain, Manix 2 (M4), SB MT, PM2 M390, CF dodo, Manix2 (CF S90V),Manix2 XL S90V, ZowadaCF BalanceRassenti Nivarna, Lil' Nilakka, Tuff, Police 4,Chinook 4, Caly HAP4052100 Military, S110V Military, Any/All PM2 & Military sprints/exclusives I can get my grubby hands on :) :spyder: :) :spyder: :)
"We may look curious, homely, whatever, but we'll never be called unusable or undependable."
Apart from my problems with being able to rust almost anything in my pocket, I really like it. I can't say it would replace my S110V and the two are at far ends of a spectrum but I like them both. I work outside so I'm either sweating or getting rained on, so corrosion resistance has become more important to me than it used to be. I may send one of mine out for a regrind after I get the two back I just mailed out.
Evil D wrote:Well all I could find was some Turtle Wax rubbing compound, and it was enough to remove the surface rust but there is still some staining on the blade that I can't seem to get rid of, nor can I get through the patina. So, either this compound isn't abrasive enough or I'm doing something wrong. I may have to get myself some Flitz and give that a go.
Admittedly, I haven't read the last few pages of this thread but I saw you were having issues removing a patina. If highly recommend flitz, I see you're thinking about it. I removed the patina from my SB Caly 3.5 with it a few weeks ago. Good as new. Just some flitz and a rag. Lots of rubbing. Took about 20 mins or so.
I don't generally disassemble my Spyderco knives. I have seen a post or two with folks mentioning that they might change the scales. Does the 52100 Military not have the new CQI which has all screw construction, except for the stop pin? I know my S110V does...Is this part removable? Not that I will be removing mine...
:spyder: MEMBRE DE L'ORDRE INTERNATIONALE SPYDEREDGE :spyder:
D-Roc wrote:I don't generally disassemble my Spyderco knives. I have seen a post or two with folks mentioning that they might change the scales. Does the 52100 Military not have the new CQI which has all screw construction, except for the stop pin? I know my S110V does...Is this part removable? Not that I will be removing mine...
People seem to be confusing the stop pin with a river/pin that isn't removable. It all comes apart just like any other Military, the stop pin just doesn't have screws anymore and is a solid floating piece.
What part is the river pin (lanyard)?
How is the stop pin manufactured? In two pieces, no threads?
Just curious
Evil D wrote:
D-Roc wrote:I don't generally disassemble my Spyderco knives. I have seen a post or two with folks mentioning that they might change the scales. Does the 52100 Military not have the new CQI which has all screw construction, except for the stop pin? I know my S110V does...Is this part removable? Not that I will be removing mine...
People seem to be confusing the stop pin with a river/pin that isn't removable. It all comes apart just like any other Military, the stop pin just doesn't have screws anymore and is a solid floating piece.
:spyder: MEMBRE DE L'ORDRE INTERNATIONALE SPYDEREDGE :spyder:
Sorry my stupid phone auto corrected that. Meant to say rivet. People are confusing the new stop pin with a rivet like the old pinned construction knives because they look similar. There are no pins or rivets in the Military.
D-Roc wrote:What part is the river pin (lanyard)?
How is the stop pin manufactured? In two pieces, no threads?
Just curious
Evil D wrote:
D-Roc wrote:I don't generally disassemble my Spyderco knives. I have seen a post or two with folks mentioning that they might change the scales. Does the 52100 Military not have the new CQI which has all screw construction, except for the stop pin? I know my S110V does...Is this part removable? Not that I will be removing mine...
People seem to be confusing the stop pin with a river/pin that isn't removable. It all comes apart just like any other Military, the stop pin just doesn't have screws anymore and is a solid floating piece.
