Mule Team 20 (CTS B70P), my first Mule

[jackknifeh]

I am making a handle for the Mule and I need suggestions for getting a sheath when finished. So, I'll need a sheath and I'm pretty sure I will want a neck sheath of kydex. So if anyone has any ideas or suggestions for someone to make a kydex sheath I'd appreciate them. I already have two options I know of. One is a forum member and the other is a guy I got a kydex sheath from one ebay (I think). I got one for my Worker and it's perfect. I will need to send the Mule to whoever though for a kydex sheath. I just hope it turns out nice enough to keep. If I don't like it I'll grind the scales off and do it again.

Here are some pictures so far. Any advice on making fixed blade handles is appreciated as well. REALLY appreciated. I have one scale glued to the side of the handle. I need to wait for some pin material to drill holes for it and then finish the other side then shape, polish, etc. But I'm absolutely no expert and any tips on anything I'm open to. Especially the sealing of the handle when finished. Here are some pictures so far. I've taken a pic after just about every step I think.

Gluing the two pieces of wood together. BTW, I used Titebond III wood glue. I recently got a Kreg jig and have been on that forum some. I asked about different wood glues as all I've ever used that I can remember is Elmer's. It ISN'T waterproof. The Titebone III is supposed to be 100% waterproof wood glue after it dries. Using it is just like using Elmer's or other common wood glues. It takes a few minutes longer to set I think but that's about it. I read about it on their site. When it comes to gluing wood I've never had anything work better than a good wood glue. Epoxy and other types will work but a glue just for wood is great just for wood. But, not being waterproof has always a drawback. So, I tried the Titebond III for this. They have a I and a II also. I suggest checking them out if you haven't. More than likely I'm the only one who never heard of it before. On a side note, the Kreg jig is a wonderful thing. :) I've been drilling pocket holes all over the house. Wife is mad about the holes in the top of the dining room table. :) Back on subject.


This is the other scale just to show the different thickness of the wood. Not important, just a pic. :)



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This pic shows the polishing compound I used so far. I used the blue one labeled for multiple surfaces. I bought the pack a long time ago to use to polish blades (steel, not wood). SUPER cheap on some site somewhere. Works pretty good though. I may use something a bit more "fancy" to finish it up. Don't really know yet. This is another area I'd love some advice. Getting wood super smooth and polished. Or left a bit less shiny. All help is appreciated.




This is what I did today (6/26/15). I've got the front of the scales shaped and polished some and two holes drilled in one scale. I glued the scale with the holes to the knife. The holes are in the center of two of the larger holes in the handle. The pin holes will be 1/4" and the holes in the knife are 3/8" so I have enough margin of error that all is well. When I get the pin material I'll enlarge the holes, drilling through both scales. Then I'll glue it all together. Wonder if I should have waited to glue this one. Any thoughts? They are a mosaic type. Hope they look good. Any advice on adding mosaic pins is really appreciated. There was a warning on the product that they get warm when working with them very easily and can soften epoxy. So I guess working slow with low speed with a Dremel or whatever is important. :confused: :confused: :confused: Please help with this if anyone can.



This is the front of the scale. I finish it as much as I can because after gluing it I can't do any more sanding or anything because the wood is against the steel. Finishing the rest of the outside of the handle will also polish the tang but I don't know of a way to work on the scales right here once they are glued to the knife. Any suggestions about this are appreciated.


I've had this Mule for a month or two I think along with the handle material. Been really busy and am now just getting to it. So far so good I think. We'll see what happens. :)

Jack

[elduderino04]

That's some beautiful work there. I'm afraid I can't offer much advice on making the handle as I haven't done one myself. However, you may consider using an epoxy over the titebond. While you're right that titebond is great when you're gluing two wood surfaces, I would be concerned about using it to adhere wood to steel like you're doing here. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will chime in soon, however.

For the sheath, I've been meaning to get one for mine as well. Since you're making the scales yourself, you'll have to send the knife to anyone to get it done (even if they have another mule on hand). So I'd say if you're happy with the guy you used before, there's not much reason to change.

Good luck!

[jackknifeh]

That's some beautiful work there. I'm afraid I can't offer much advice on making the handle as I haven't done one myself. However, you may consider using an epoxy over the titebond. While you're right that titebond is great when you're gluing two wood surfaces, I would be concerned about using it to adhere wood to steel like you're doing here. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will chime in soon, however.

For the sheath, I've been meaning to get one for mine as well. Since you're making the scales yourself, you'll have to send the knife to anyone to get it done (even if they have another mule on hand). So I'd say if you're happy with the guy you used before, there's not much reason to change.

Good luck!

I'm only using the Titebond to glue the two different woods together. I am using epoxy to glue the scales to the knife. Agree completely about that.

[jackknifeh]

Removed clamps. This is where it will stay until I get the pin material.

Photobucket turned my picture sideways. :mad: :confused: :) Don't know what happened. Too tired to fix. Everyone turn your monitor on it's side for a second. :D




Hadn't thought about it but wonder if I should put a lanyard hole in there? Won't hurt anything if I never use it. If I don't add one and want it later,,, too late. hmmm I would need to order some tube that I should have put on the order with the pin material. :mad:


Jack

[bdblue]

I have done the same thing- finish the front of the scale before gluing. I usually drill the holes through the scales then glue both sides on the handle at the same time including the bolts. Granted drilling through the whole thing after gluing might have some advantages.

[Nate]

Looks like you're off to a nice start on those. Can't offer much advice but do you plan to leave them flat? Maybe I'm spoiled by the South Fork, but I'm starting to want round and chamfer all of my knives :)

[jabba359]

Looking nice so far. What kind of wood are you using?

I've used mosaic pins a couple of times. I just cut off a couple pieces just slightly over-length with a Dremel cutoff wheel, glued/pinned the knife together, and then sanded them down with my bench sander the same way I sand everything else. Not only have I also heard you need to be careful not to overheat the pins, but I've heard as well as that the pins wear down slower than the surrounding wood, however I just power-sanded away and never had an issue with the epoxy melting nor with the wood sanding down faster than the pins. I suppose I try to frequently alternate the sides I'm sanding so they don't get too hot and have a chance to cool down as I rotate my way through the sanding process.

As for the front edge, of the handle, I suppose you could use some electrical tape and cut it precisely to cover the tang so that as you finish the front of the handle, the tape should protect the tang from any sanding/polishing. Whenever I have made my permanently attached handles, I always finish the front edge completely before gluing them on just to avoid that headache.

[jackknifeh]

Looks like you're off to a nice start on those. Can't offer much advice but do you plan to leave them flat? Maybe I'm spoiled by the South Fork, but I'm starting to want round and chamfer all of my knives :)

The handle will be round. The sides may be a little flat on the sides but there won't be any area that will be a possible "hot spot" making it uncomfortable to use. On some of the folder scales I've made I leave them flat with a 45 degree chamfer along the edges. Being a fixed blade I won't need to worry about keeping the handle thin to make it more comfortable in a pocket. OTOH, I don't want it real thick either. But the handle will have more of a round shape than flat.

Jack

[jackknifeh]

Looking nice so far. What kind of wood are you using?

I've used mosaic pins a couple of times. I just cut off a couple pieces just slightly over-length with a Dremel cutoff wheel, glued/pinned the knife together, and then sanded them down with my bench sander the same way I sand everything else. Not only have I also heard you need to be careful not to overheat the pins, but I've heard as well as that the pins wear down slower than the surrounding wood, however I just power-sanded away and never had an issue with the epoxy melting nor with the wood sanding down faster than the pins. I suppose I try to frequently alternate the sides I'm sanding so they don't get too hot and have a chance to cool down as I rotate my way through the sanding process.

As for the front edge, of the handle, I suppose you could use some electrical tape and cut it precisely to cover the tang so that as you finish the front of the handle, the tape should protect the tang from any sanding/polishing. Whenever I have made my permanently attached handles, I always finish the front edge completely before gluing them on just to avoid that headache.

The wood is leopardwood and curly maple (red leaf). The leapardwood is the darker of the two. I got these a while back and they were really inexpensive. I don't remember if it's stabilized or not. Not that the cost matters for a final product but it will make it easier to sand the handle off if I don't like it and start over. I hope it turns out nice but if not I won't have blown $50 on a block of wood. :) I think these woods will look good when finished. Also, a nice contrast to each other.

Thanks for the info on the mosaic pins. Glad to know they aren't as hard to deal with as I was thinking. I was thinking of taping the steel if I need to do any more to the scales. Hopefully I won't need to do that but it's an option.

Jack

[Nate]

The handle will be round...

Jack

Derp, I was reading this right before bed and misunderstood what meant by the "front' of the scale and not doing any more sanding after it was glued on. Makes sense now that I've had some coffee :)

[jackknifeh]

The handle will be round...

Jack

Derp, I was reading this right before bed and misunderstood what meant by the "front' of the scale and not doing any more sanding after it was glued on. Makes sense now that I've had some coffee :)

I understand. Coffee is good. :)

Jack

[jackknifeh]

Pin material came yesterday. Clamped second scale to handle and drilled holes for pins. Cut pin sections and glued together. Will continue tomorrow I hope.

[jackknifeh]

Still today. :) I removed the clamps and sanded the sides flat. Now I will begin shaping the handle and finishing it. Here's a couple of pictures.

Whole knife


Blade stamp indicating the blade steel


Back of handle


Top of handle. Bottom of the handle looks like the top.



Jack

[dubya3]

Hey jack, beautiful work! I wish I was as daring as you and attempted some nice scales for my MULE 18, luckily my uncle is a custom woodworker so I might see if I can pay him to make a set. Any updates on your knife? Also, where did you find the pins? The one knife builder shop I know of is out of stock on them.

[jackknifeh]

Hey jack, beautiful work! I wish I was as daring as you and attempted some nice scales for my MULE 18, luckily my uncle is a custom woodworker so I might see if I can pay him to make a set. Any updates on your knife? Also, where did you find the pins? The one knife builder shop I know of is out of stock on them.

Thank you dubya3. I've shaped the handle a little but not very much. Not enough to call it progress that's for sure. :) I got the pin at USA knifemakers. I hope to finish it soon but I don't know when it will be.

Jack

[MacLaren]

Great thread Jack. Congratz!

[Quickbeam]

Nice work, thanks for taking the time to share your work.

[dubya3]

Any progress lately? I'm doing Ebony and Burl Maple on mine with brass hardware and possibly some maroon liners to sandwich between the scales and tang.

[jackknifeh]

Any progress lately? I'm doing Ebony and Burl Maple on mine with brass hardware and possibly some maroon liners to sandwich between the scales and tang.

No recent work on the knife. I've been distracted by other stuff but it sits on my bench asking what's the hold up. :)

Jack

[jackknifeh]

Finally got back to work on my mule. Shaped the handle and got one coat of polyurethane on it. I'll sand it and apply second coat tonight I think.

Here it is so far.