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MadRookie
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#621

Post by MadRookie »

Naah, the 500# is cool.

But if you do not have a coarse stone for setting bevels, get the 220# or save the money towards Atoma plates.....

You will not need the 320# in between the 220# & 500# stones.


:)
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jackknifeh
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#622

Post by jackknifeh »

78lilred wrote:Just curious on if I "needed" to get a 220/320 Shapton as I currently own a 500 and 1k. Thanks for the reply.
MadRookie wrote:Naah, the 500# is cool.

But if you do not have a coarse stone for setting bevels, get the 220# or save the money towards Atoma plates.....

You will not need the 320# in between the 220# & 500# stones.


:)
MR has a lot more experience than I do but I agree with him. I have the 320 and 1k bench stone. I have the 500 and 1k EP stones. A 320 would be wasted since you have the 500. The 320 cuts really fast so I know the 220 would be a really good stone for setting bevels and jumping to the 500 would be doable I'm sure as MR said.

The Atoma's is another option. I've used DMT stones a lot and love them. EVERYONE who has used DMT's and Atoma's swear the Atoma's are worth the extra cost. I would LOVE to get some Atoma's so I consider the considerations. Shapton glass stones cut VERY good and don't wear as much as most other water stones (I've read). So flattening is not AS needed as other stones but it is needed some. Atoma's don't need flattening and I assume it used properly will last until your grandkids sharpen knives. So for me and how I feel about the extra cost is I go with the Shapton glass. I love them, they work great, they don't wear fast so it's not like you will need to replace them in one or two or three years. And you keep a few $ in your pocket for something else. Since both are great performers the $ make the decision for me (for right now). If, after getting the Shapton glass I still want to try the Atoma's I have lots of time if needed to put money back for them since I now have a GREAT set of stones that will do everything I need or want. The only difference then would be using water or not. Atoma's don't need water so are faster and cleaner for touch ups. But, I prefer using water with diamond stones anyway so I'd still have a bit of a mess.

Why is it we can decide life long family and career decisions with ease but which stone or knife to buy will put us in the grave? :D

Jack
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MadRookie
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#623

Post by MadRookie »

Why is it we can decide life long family and career decisions with ease but which stone or knife to buy will put us in the grave?


So true - could not have summarized it better.....

:)
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78lilred
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#624

Post by 78lilred »

MadRookie wrote:Naah, the 500# is cool.

But if you do not have a coarse stone for setting bevels, get the 220# or save the money towards Atoma plates.....

You will not need the 320# in between the 220# & 500# stones.


:)
hahah I've got mold masters in 80/120/150/240/320/400 + an extra coarse diamond hone for flattening/bevel setting. Also dmt 2x6 XC/C/F/EF. The 500/1k Shapton glass are really nice and still getting used to having a 3x8 stone compared to the 1x5 MM's.

Jack - As for diamonds I would love to get ahold of Atoma's someday but for now my knives get sharp enough with current rotation that a new knife is always needed before sharpening equipment... Such is addiction. For the record my Tuff has a 500# finish currently and it works great, also did very well with a MM 400# finish.
M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.
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MadRookie
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#625

Post by MadRookie »

There you go....case closed.

:)
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78lilred
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#626

Post by 78lilred »

Since I hijacked the thread here's a photo of unsteady handy work, scratches towards the tip are from use not sharpening. Photo credit to cloudy day of no real natural light.
#500 Shapton Glass. It cuts if you push hard enough and lots of sawing motions.
Image
M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.
Therealtwitch
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#627

Post by Therealtwitch »

Image

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Holland
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#628

Post by Holland »

Nice edges therealtwitch
-Spencer

Rotation:
Gayle Bradley 2 | Mantra 1 | Watu | Chaparral 1 | Dragonfly 2 Salt SE
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elrond18
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#629

Post by elrond18 »

Image
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elrond18
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#630

Post by elrond18 »

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elrond18
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#631

Post by elrond18 »

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MadRookie
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#632

Post by MadRookie »

Have not seen a bad edge here yet......the camera shots might suck at times, but the edges look real good.....


Kudus to you all!!


:)
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Zenith
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#633

Post by Zenith »

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"If you wish to live and thrive, let the spider run alive"
"the perfect knife is the one in your hand, you should just learn how to use it."
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Therealtwitch
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#634

Post by Therealtwitch »

Image

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jackknifeh
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#635

Post by jackknifeh »

Stretch super blue

Pretty close to a mirror bevel finished with 8k Shapton glass stone
Image

Same edge slicing a page from the A.G. Russell catalog
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MadRookie
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#636

Post by MadRookie »

Ok, did a quick revamp of my Native 5 S110V.

14 DPS relief & 500# micro bevel @ 18 DPS.



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:)
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78lilred
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#637

Post by 78lilred »

Kind of hard to follow up a madrookie post but here's my unsteady hand. The para is an ugly 1k glass finish nothing fancy.
Image
M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.
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jackknifeh
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#638

Post by jackknifeh »

78lilred wrote:Kind of hard to follow up a madrookie post but here's my unsteady hand. The para is an ugly 1k glass finish nothing fancy.
Image
MR's edges are hard to follow, no doubt. However, your edge looks real good too. Nice job.


Jack
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Holland
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#639

Post by Holland »

Wow mad rookie! Those are insane
-Spencer

Rotation:
Gayle Bradley 2 | Mantra 1 | Watu | Chaparral 1 | Dragonfly 2 Salt SE
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Donut
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#640

Post by Donut »

That looks good for ZDP.

Rookie, I see you're reading about food. :)
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Waiting on a Squeak and Pingo with a Split Spring!
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