Show your mods!
- Johnnie1801
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- Joined: Sat Apr 26, 2014 10:29 am
- Location: Europe
That's really nice work Ted. Sometimes I prefer a more rustic look than flashy, I think I would be tempted to leave it as it is and use it.
Currently enjoying Spyderco's in - S30V, VG10, Super Blue, Cruwear x4, CTS XHP, S110V x2, M4 x3, S35VN, CTS 204P x2, S90V, HAP 40, K390, RWL34, MAXAMET, ZDP 189, REX 45
Jon
Jon
- phillipsted
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- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:30 am
- Location: North Virginia
Good question, Jazz. I don't have the technology to drill "D" shaped holes in the scales, so I have to find work arounds... :cool:
First off, you have to remove all the dried threadlocker that Spyderco applies to the screws at the factory. Some screws can be tightened sufficiently just by putting pressure on the head of the bolt (the side without the torx) which stops the spinning enough to turn the screw home.
In some cases, you need a little help in holding the bolt in place. My first option is to get a pin punch or nail set, add a drop of fast-curing CA glue to the tip, and touch it to the smooth head of the bolt. It may take a couple of tries to get it right, but sometimes this provides enough leverage to turn the screw without spinning the bolt. My last resort is to put a very very very thin coat of CA glue inside the hole on the scale. If you put it just on the flat "shelf" that contacts the bolt head, this will hold the bolt in place and allow you to tighten the screw. You have to be careful - especially on the pivot - not to use too much glue because it could seriously gum up the works. And if you use a very thin coat of CA, you can usually break the bolt free if you ever need to disassemble the knife.
TedP
First off, you have to remove all the dried threadlocker that Spyderco applies to the screws at the factory. Some screws can be tightened sufficiently just by putting pressure on the head of the bolt (the side without the torx) which stops the spinning enough to turn the screw home.
In some cases, you need a little help in holding the bolt in place. My first option is to get a pin punch or nail set, add a drop of fast-curing CA glue to the tip, and touch it to the smooth head of the bolt. It may take a couple of tries to get it right, but sometimes this provides enough leverage to turn the screw without spinning the bolt. My last resort is to put a very very very thin coat of CA glue inside the hole on the scale. If you put it just on the flat "shelf" that contacts the bolt head, this will hold the bolt in place and allow you to tighten the screw. You have to be careful - especially on the pivot - not to use too much glue because it could seriously gum up the works. And if you use a very thin coat of CA, you can usually break the bolt free if you ever need to disassemble the knife.
TedP
- jackknifeh
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- Posts: 8412
- Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:01 am
- Location: Florida panhandle
- jackknifeh
- Member
- Posts: 8412
- Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:01 am
- Location: Florida panhandle
Been neglecting this thread for a while. Ted, great work on the UKPK. That counterboring is really impressive. You shared an ebay seller for the counterbores and while I haven't gotten any I hope to. Really beautiful work.
kirilpetkov,
Great job on the notch. Can I ask where you got that set of files? Are they EZE-LAP? I have a small set and would like more files with different shapes and possibly different grits. Thanks and again, great job.
Jack
kirilpetkov,
Great job on the notch. Can I ask where you got that set of files? Are they EZE-LAP? I have a small set and would like more files with different shapes and possibly different grits. Thanks and again, great job.
Jack
- phillipsted
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- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:30 am
- Location: North Virginia
I recently decided to purchase another set of PM2 scales from Lucas at Cuscadi to put on my ELMAX exclusive. I opted for a weathered burgundy linen Micarta this time. They arrived this week - and once again, Lucas did a marvelous job. The scales fit like a glove and the knife has a great action once the scales were installed and the pivot adjusted. Even better, the Micarta is a few grams lighter than G10 and the grip is fantastic - slightly warm and "organic" to the touch. A great improvement over the stock scales.
For those of you might remember, I did this same treatment to my CTS-20CP PM2 a couple of years ago. I included a couple of pictures of these two knives side-by-side for comparison. The 20CP knife was about the same color as the ELMAX when it was new. But over the past couple of years, the scales have taken on a wonderful patina with use. I have to say, this is probably my favorite of all the hundreds of knives I've owned over the past 50 years - bar none.
And now, the 20CP blade has a brother!
TedP
For those of you might remember, I did this same treatment to my CTS-20CP PM2 a couple of years ago. I included a couple of pictures of these two knives side-by-side for comparison. The 20CP knife was about the same color as the ELMAX when it was new. But over the past couple of years, the scales have taken on a wonderful patina with use. I have to say, this is probably my favorite of all the hundreds of knives I've owned over the past 50 years - bar none.
And now, the 20CP blade has a brother!
TedP
-
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http://jadecarver.com/DiamondTools.htmjackknifeh wrote:Been neglecting this thread for a while. Ted, great work on the UKPK. That counterboring is really impressive. You shared an ebay seller for the counterbores and while I haven't gotten any I hope to. Really beautiful work.
kirilpetkov,
Great job on the notch. Can I ask where you got that set of files? Are they EZE-LAP? I have a small set and would like more files with different shapes and possibly different grits. Thanks and again, great job.
Jack
- phillipsted
- Member
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- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:30 am
- Location: North Virginia
This is a Squeak I've had on my bench for a while and finally got assembled today. The wood is a stabilized, dyed Silky Oak from Hawaii (not a true oak) that was purchased from Mark at It's a Burl. I've always liked the varied grain and prominent rays in this wood - there's lots to look at. I'm not normally a big fan of dyed wood, but in this case, the dye creates a bit more contrast than the raw wood has. The Silky Oak was finished with five thin coats of TruOil, topped with a coat if Ren Wax.
I had a bit of trouble with the action on this one - I wasn't able to get it smoothed out after fiddling with it during final assembly. I'll keep working on it and will probably add some teflon washers to see if it helps.
Cheers!
TedP
I had a bit of trouble with the action on this one - I wasn't able to get it smoothed out after fiddling with it during final assembly. I'll keep working on it and will probably add some teflon washers to see if it helps.
Cheers!
TedP
- i am travvy
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- Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:51 pm
- i am travvy
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- GoldenSpydie
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- Location: CO and WY