Show your Mule

[xceptnl]

Josh, those pictures are terrific. Thank you for sharing.

[JLS]

sorry JLS, i hate you now :D
serious, i'm really jealous! you got a beautiful collection there!

Thank you, it's a marathon collecting these Mules. You're part of a large group of people that don't like me, but most people have a better reason that you! You should update your signature too. We need MT14 AND MT17 to drop!

I like the yellow/carbon fiber one with the holes in it the best. Great collection!

Thanks. That ZDP handle was a long time coming due to the extremely limited numbers of the blade; I wanted something that would look good even if it wasn't going to get used real hard. I don't normally do bright colors on knives, but I really like the yellow on this and it makes the carbon fiber weave on the surface really pop.

Josh, those pictures are terrific. Thank you for sharing.

Thanks, but the pictures are pretty lousy compared to many on here. I wish I could do justice to the knives, but I lack the ambition and know-how for photography. It really is a pleasure to share on this forum; there's a very good group here. I don't really say much, but I do enjoy reading and occasionally contributing a little bit.

[phillipsted]

Hey, JLS - that is quite a "labor of love" you have there. Beautiful stuff!

Question about the pinless designs. Did you use hidden pins or some other mechanical fastener - or just epoxy to hold them? I love the look...

TedP

[Holland]

amazing mules jls! i especially like your MT4

[JLS]

Hey, JLS - that is quite a "labor of love" you have there. Beautiful stuff!

Question about the pinless designs. Did you use hidden pins or some other mechanical fastener - or just epoxy to hold them? I love the look...

TedP

Those are high compliments coming from you, Ted; thank you very much. I really do find it fun and while I've settled on a few favorite points, I still can't say that I have a pattern to them. Each one is a bit different in materials, contour and cosmetics. If I lined them up in the order they were done, you'd see some trends as my tastes evolve.

The "pinless" ones all have either two or three 1/4" long 3/16" diameter pins that engage the scales and blade for rotational references and then are epoxied on. Some wood is just too pretty to mess up.

[JLS]

Hey, JLS - that is quite a "labor of love" you have there. Beautiful stuff!

Question about the pinless designs. Did you use hidden pins or some other mechanical fastener - or just epoxy to hold them? I love the look...

TedP

Those are high compliments coming from you, Ted; thank you very much. I really do find it fun and while I've settled on a few favorite points, I still can't say that I have a pattern to them. Each one is a bit different in materials, contour and cosmetics. If I lined them up in the order they were done, you'd see some trends as my tastes evolve.

The "pinless" ones all have either two or three 1/4" long 3/16" diameter pins that engage the scales and blade for rotational references and then are epoxied on. Some wood is just too pretty to mess up.

amazing mules jls! i especially like your MT4

Thanks. The ZDP is about the most recent and was a lot of fun, but a bit nerve-racking considering all the cracked ones. Mine is still in one piece! Also, carbon fiber is beautiful, but not much fun to work with.

[farns]

Here is the latest edition.

[Holland]

looks great farns! i love that u left the butt of the knife open so it can be used as a lanyard hole

[phillipsted]

Nicely done, farns! Could you provide us some details about the wood and the finish you used? Given the coloring, it almost looks like pink ivory or possibly bloodwood...

TedP

[farns]

Thanks for the compliment! I went with Redheart scales, yellow liners, brass pins and the TruOil you recommend. It worked out very well and hopefully it will retain it's red hue as it spends some time in the sun, time will tell.

Nicely done, farns! Could you provide us some details about the wood and the finish you used? Given the coloring, it almost looks like pink ivory or possibly bloodwood...

TedP

[Barman]

My first Mule is on the way. Got the Super Blue model and some Micarta scales to screw on in case my scale manufacturing skills aren't as strong as I suspect.
I've had the pictured piece of wood hanging around for a while that could be good for scales. I'm not sure what kind of wood it is or where it came from but it is a hardwood (It was a dumpster dive :rolleyes :) . Sanded down to keep some of the natural texture is my plan. Any advice or identification of the wood is welcome.

[phillipsted]

Here is my latest Mule project. Over a year ago, I bought a chunk of rosewood burl from a dealer. I wanted to try processing and cutting some slabs from a raw burl myself. Hoo, boy - I really didn't know what I was getting in for! :) Even though the burl was dried when I got it (don't know the actual moisture content), I decided not to have it stabilized since rosewood is so oily to begin with. So I let it acclimatize in my shop for a while then cut it into oversize scale slabs. Then things started to get frustrating... the slabs twisted, warped, and developed hairline cracks. I kept them clamped down tightly for almost a year to let them get a bit less "lively". Then a few weeks back, I took them out, trimmed them up and put a blue G10 liner on the back side. I used a ton of West System epoxy so that the slabs would be partially encased in the adhesive for a while - and then clamped them back down for a few weeks. When I took them out and trimmed them up - they appeared pretty solid. So far - so good.

The drilling, shaping, and contouring were the second part of the adventure. This rosewood burl had to be the single most unforgiving wood that I've ever used in my life. Period. It split and chipped, eyes popped out, pithy parts (mostly in the lighter portions) tore out, the oily dark wood clogged my files and stained the lighter wood. Argh. What a battle. I finally wrestled it into shape and I had to figure out how to finish the material.

This started the third part of the adventure. The burl was full of voids (as well as little chips of rock and dirt) and pith and even though it was sanded out to 800 grit, it was still really gnarly. I'm not a big fan of CA glue as a finish, but I decided that this was the time to break it out. So I coated the scales with a couple of thin coats of the thinnest CA I had, sanding down to 1000 grit between each coat. After this was finished, I topped it off with about 10 thin coats of TruOil with a finish sanding out to 2500 grit. Then I attacked it with the buffer and some white rouge. Still not perfect... but the beauty of the swirling grain emerged like I hoped.

I almost forgot to mention - these are breakdown scales. Like most of my scales, they aren't epoxied to the tang, they are mechanically attached with 3/16" pivot bolts and are removable.

TedP

[Barman]

My first Mule!
Super Blue with Micarta scales. I added some custom reddish vinyl spacers for a touch more girth to the handle. Came out pretty well.
Now that I'm a bit more familiar with the design it's time for some wood scales on the next sprint Mule.

[Bladekeeper]

Here is my latest Mule project. Over a year ago, I bought a chunk of rosewood burl from a dealer. I wanted to try processing and cutting some slabs from a raw burl myself. Hoo, boy - I really didn't know what I was getting in for! :) Even though the burl was dried when I got it (don't know the actual moisture content), I decided not to have it stabilized since rosewood is so oily to begin with. So I let it acclimatize in my shop for a while then cut it into oversize scale slabs. Then things started to get frustrating... the slabs twisted, warped, and developed hairline cracks. I kept them clamped down tightly for almost a year to let them get a bit less "lively". Then a few weeks back, I took them out, trimmed them up and put a blue G10 liner on the back side. I used a ton of West System epoxy so that the slabs would be partially encased in the adhesive for a while - and then clamped them back down for a few weeks. When I took them out and trimmed them up - they appeared pretty solid. So far - so good.

The drilling, shaping, and contouring were the second part of the adventure. This rosewood burl had to be the single most unforgiving wood that I've ever used in my life. Period. It split and chipped, eyes popped out, pithy parts (mostly in the lighter portions) tore out, the oily dark wood clogged my files and stained the lighter wood. Argh. What a battle. I finally wrestled it into shape and I had to figure out how to finish the material.

This started the third part of the adventure. The burl was full of voids (as well as little chips of rock and dirt) and pith and even though it was sanded out to 800 grit, it was still really gnarly. I'm not a big fan of CA glue as a finish, but I decided that this was the time to break it out. So I coated the scales with a couple of thin coats of the thinnest CA I had, sanding down to 1000 grit between each coat. After this was finished, I topped it off with about 10 thin coats of TruOil with a finish sanding out to 2500 grit. Then I attacked it with the buffer and some white rouge. Still not perfect... but the beauty of the swirling grain emerged like I hoped.

I almost forgot to mention - these are breakdown scales. Like most of my scales, they aren't epoxied to the tang, they are mechanically attached with 3/16" pivot bolts and are removable.

Great work Ted and you've put liners on good man .
Did you put wax on the wood whilst it acclimatised this apparently often helps lessen the warping.
Still allowing the right amount of moisture retention .
I've been looking at getting some soft gem stone into some burl .
Then polishing it up and putting it onto a mule but £ is the issue.
I have a woodcraft mule outstanding and the very nice gent who is scaling it is going to get rid of the jimping .
That way the scales can be taken over the choil and gives a better profile .
You've got some awesome mule collection going on there .

[rg02]

Just bought a LNIB cru wear mule with halpern thin blue g10 scales off BF! Will post pics when it arrives!!!

[Skidoosh]

Here is my latest Mule project. Over a year ago, I bought a chunk of rosewood burl from a dealer. I wanted to try processing and cutting some slabs from a raw burl myself. Hoo, boy - I really didn't know what I was getting in for! :) Even though the burl was dried when I got it (don't know the actual moisture content), I decided not to have it stabilized since rosewood is so oily to begin with. So I let it acclimatize in my shop for a while then cut it into oversize scale slabs. Then things started to get frustrating... the slabs twisted, warped, and developed hairline cracks. I kept them clamped down tightly for almost a year to let them get a bit less "lively". Then a few weeks back, I took them out, trimmed them up and put a blue G10 liner on the back side. I used a ton of West System epoxy so that the slabs would be partially encased in the adhesive for a while - and then clamped them back down for a few weeks. When I took them out and trimmed them up - they appeared pretty solid. So far - so good.

The drilling, shaping, and contouring were the second part of the adventure. This rosewood burl had to be the single most unforgiving wood that I've ever used in my life. Period. It split and chipped, eyes popped out, pithy parts (mostly in the lighter portions) tore out, the oily dark wood clogged my files and stained the lighter wood. Argh. What a battle. I finally wrestled it into shape and I had to figure out how to finish the material.

This started the third part of the adventure. The burl was full of voids (as well as little chips of rock and dirt) and pith and even though it was sanded out to 800 grit, it was still really gnarly. I'm not a big fan of CA glue as a finish, but I decided that this was the time to break it out. So I coated the scales with a couple of thin coats of the thinnest CA I had, sanding down to 1000 grit between each coat. After this was finished, I topped it off with about 10 thin coats of TruOil with a finish sanding out to 2500 grit. Then I attacked it with the buffer and some white rouge. Still not perfect... but the beauty of the swirling grain emerged like I hoped.

I almost forgot to mention - these are breakdown scales. Like most of my scales, they aren't epoxied to the tang, they are mechanically attached with 3/16" pivot bolts and are removable.

TedP

Very nice job. That is beautiful burl, the work and frustration paid off. I really like the blue liners. Bring on the K390!

[Skidoosh]

My first Mule!
Super Blue with Micarta scales. I added some custom reddish vinyl spacers for a touch more girth to the handle. Came out pretty well.
Now that I'm a bit more familiar with the design it's time for some wood scales on the next sprint Mule.

I noticed your mule says Seki City, I though all mules were Golden, CO USA? Could someone fill me in?

[Barman]

I noticed your mule says Seki City, I though all mules were Golden, CO USA? Could someone fill me in?

My first Mule. You startled me for a moment but all is well. http://spydercosource.com/2012/09/spyde ... blue-mt08/

[Invective]

I noticed your mule says Seki City, I though all mules were Golden, CO USA? Could someone fill me in?

I believe Japanese steelmakers do not trust non-Japanese steel workers to heat treat their steel properly and thus do the heat treatment themselves. So for most Japanese steels you will not see them made outside of Japan. Exceptions are made, what with the ATS 34/55 Millies coming out of Golden or Aus-6 Salsa coming out of Taiwan but generally, Japanese steels will be on Japanese made knives.

[jabba359]

I noticed your mule says Seki City, I though all mules were Golden, CO USA? Could someone fill me in?

Some have been made in Golden (#1-3, 6, 10-13, 15-16), some in Japan (#4, 7-9), and one in China (#5).

http://www.spydiewiki.com/index.php?title=MT_Mule_Team