Tarheelpwr wrote: ↑Wed Nov 28, 2018 9:46 pm
... That’s where I’m currently hung up. My thickness will be right at .64” with .25” scale and the .14” handle. I’m not sure how much to subtract for countersinking the heads. I’m leaning towards the 1/2” length by 3-16dia pivots.
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... hread.html
1/16" should be fine. You shouldn't need a lot of clamping force. That said, when you're making a removable handle you have some other concerns you'll need to address. If your hardware doesn't fit snugly in the holes in the tang the slop will allow your scales to move under force no matter how much clamping force the hardware provides. The holes in a Mule tang are pretty large so you might want to check on that. One of the things I've done in the past has been to fill the holes I want to use with epoxy (JB Weld would work here too) and cover both sides with wax paper and clamp flat planks on both sides while it cures. Then I can drill the holes the exact diameter I want in the epoxy and once the scales are in place the epoxy is supported and provides plenty of strength in that application. Another option you have is to permanently attach the handle with epoxy in addition to the hardware.Tarheelpwr wrote: ↑Mon Dec 03, 2018 7:13 pmThanks Chad! That’s a good idea on drawing the contour. I think I’m on the right track. I’m going to leave this one pretty much flat since it’s my first. I’ll taper the edges and add a thumb notch, but nothing that will affect the area where the hardware is. USA knife said the head thickness is .0365”, so there’s my countersink depth. It looks like the head is 1/4” and the post is 3/16”. Is 1/16 enough material to really secure the handle, or should I go with a washer to provide more material to clamp?
Any thickness that appeals to you aesthetically will work fine because if the scale gets too wide you'll sand it off the outside. G10 liner comes as thin as .014" and even that thin material will provide the water-proofing. AKS (Alpha Knife Supply) sells 8.5"x11.5" of .014" black G10 for $6.00. I do not recommend JB Weld here. Epoxy is gong to have the bond and the physical properties you want. Generally speaking I would suggest to anyone making handles that they use a high quality SLOW curing (30 Min) epoxy for best durability, water resistance and stress free working time. In this case, you could use the regular fast setting stuff (5 Min) you'd find at Home Depot because gluing a liner to a scale is quick and easy.
I suggest the course peel ply. It's really easy to sand the texture down to whatever feels good to you. You'll need some sand paper. 800 grit for a soft satin look and feel. 2000 or 2500 for a shiny smooth polished look and feel.
G10 is something you don't want to breathe. The same can be said for just about every handle material frankly. CF is even worse to work with. I work with G10, CF, Ti, Stabilized wood, Ctek, Micarta, antler/horn, mammoth tooth and stabilized turquoise and I would say G10 is my second favorite to work with. G10 is very tough and requires some effort to shape, but it's consistent, stable and it won't surprise you along the way. For a G10 liner I wouldn't be concerned about what effect it will have because it's such a small amount of material. For full G10 scales you need to consider how you are going to cut them into the profile shape you want. I use metal cutting band saw. My dad cut some G10 scales I sent him on his wood cutting band saw (with a brand new blade) and it threw tiny sparks as pieces of his blade sheared off. The new wood cutting blade was trash after cutting 3" of 1/4" G10. You can shape G10 on various types of power sanding equipment or you can just use a rasp for main shaping and follow with sandpaper to finish.Tarheelpwr wrote: ↑Mon Dec 03, 2018 7:13 pmLast question is working with G10 in general. Is it as nasty as some say? Obviously, I’ll wear a mask. But what is your experience with it? I’ve been hesitant to use it based on some horror stories, but there really isn’t a good alternate for bright (hunter) orange with good grip.
Sorry for all the random questions and long thread.
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