Help me learn to make G10 scales?

[Evil D]

Guys I think it's time I branch out into something more than just playing with knives and steels. More and more I look at models and I see things I wish were different, and many of them I can change myself.

For example let's say I buy a sheepsfoot Caribbean but I don't like the blade or handle shapes. I can grind and change any part of the blade except for the edge and make it whatever I want, and on the handle side if I had the tools to make G10 scales I could at least change the shape until the liners become a problem, but then there's also the issue of nested liners.

There have been more linerless G10 designs coming out and with those I feel like the possibilities are almost endless. I could see making handle scales in any shape I want as long as it encloses the blade. The only requirement is that it screws together and opens and closes properly, and I'd need to get some clip screw anchors.





So. My biggest question right from the start is, who knows what countersinks I'd need for all the screws holes? How do I determine how deep to make them? I can start there with two rectangles of G10 and put the knife together if I just have the mounting holes correct, and then I can use a Dremel to shape the handles around the guts of the knife. I don't think I need a CNC set-up or anything that complicated unless this turns into a money making hobby. Right now I'd just like to see if I can make my own G10 handles for a Native 5 and Chief.

[WilliamMunny]

EvilD, I am in a similar boat as yours but I want to make wood handles for folding knives. I made one for a fixed Mule that wasn’t too hard but I tried a folding knife and it was a mess.

Personally one of the best looking knives I have seen is a GB2 with wood scales, I would love to make it happen.

Issues I had:

1. Scales on a folding knife are thin. This led to my failure as I tried to shape them on a router table with a bearing and using the old scale as a guide. Even with stabilized scales they split. Might have to lower router speed etc.

2. The holes appear to be metric as none of my SAE bits seems to be the exact correct size.

3. I found any counter sink would work for the screws. Little trial and error but use a drill press and stop to get the exact depth so the screw sits flush.

4. Make the scales the same thickness as the old ones. Screw depth will fit perfectly otherwise you would need to change screw size.

5. It was very hard to get the wood scales thin. I have a ton of tools but it came down to a palm sander and a ton of time. Scales were too small for a thickness planer. And my bench top belt sander was too much, hard to hold the scales as they would just “shoot” off some times.

Good luck, I know at some point I am going to try again.

[Sonorum]

I hope you can see my Imgur post in this link: https://imgur.com/a/auOy2rI

I made a G10 scale for my Dice because I got tired of the weight. In this case I chose a thin enough piece of G10 that I couldn't countersink the screwheads. If I would do it now I would do it like when I install corby or loveless bolts on a fixed blade, drill press and a stop. A caliper is your best friend. I did the space for the bearing on the inside of the scale with a dremel router and whilst it's not pretty it works as well as the factory scale.

[Bolster]

So. My biggest question right from the start is, who knows what countersinks I'd need for all the screws holes? How do I determine how deep to make them?

My machine shop teacher had a complex formula to calculate depth for countersinks, but nobody used it. We typically did a trial-and-error countersink on a scrap, and once dialed in, used the quill stop to limit the depth. But "the right depth" for a countersink is an ongoing challenge, and many people run the countersink hole too deep. Part of the issue is that you may get one depth when testing it with a loose screw, and another when you tighten the screw down...suddenly the screw goes deeper and your c-sink hole is too deep.

Correct depth, is of course, the rim of the screw being absolutely flush with the surrounding material, when tight, neither proud nor below its level.

C-sinks come in several angles (60-82-90-100 and others), and you need to get the one that matches your screwhead angle. In the US it's probably 82 for a machine screw and in Europe it's probably 90. But you have to check. I've had my best luck with C-sinks that have a single flute, or simply a single hole drilled through (see photo below), since they don't chatter. I've had my worst luck with 6-fluted c-sinks that can leave a ragged-lipped hole. Check mscdirect.com which is one source (of many) that has a wide selection of relatively inexpensive machinist's tools. Beware that large countersinks often have a flat tip, which won't work for small screws, so get a c-sink on the smaller side.

[Bolster]

2. The holes appear to be metric as none of my SAE bits seems to be the exact correct size.

I'm guessing you need to get a numbered set of bits; a fractional set has jumps between sizes that are too large for the precise work that knife hafting requires.

[RustyIron]

C-sinks come in several angles (60-82-90-100 and others), and you need to get the one that matches your screwhead angle. In the US it's probably 82 for a machine screw

Dude? What the heck? How is it even possible I didn't know this?
Although I can't remember details, I know there have been times in the past where I've cut some countersinks and they didn't come out right. What a dummy.

Now I'm totally stoked and can't wait for an opportunity to cut some standard countersinks. I might live the rest of my life not need to do so, but if I do, there's no way I'll forget. 82 degrees.

[TazKristi]

Great information, but more Off-Topic than General discussion. Moving to Off-Topic.

Kristi

[Bolster]

C-sinks come in several angles (60-82-90-100 and others), and you need to get the one that matches your screwhead angle. In the US it's probably 82 for a machine screw

Dude? What the heck? How is it even possible I didn't know this?
Although I can't remember details, I know there have been times in the past where I've cut some countersinks and they didn't come out right. What a dummy.

Now I'm totally stoked and can't wait for an opportunity to cut some standard countersinks. I might live the rest of my life not need to do so, but if I do, there's no way I'll forget. 82 degrees.

The only explanation I can come up with, is that you did not have the venerable Ed Hoffman, from El Camino College in Torrance CA, as your machinist teacher.

If your screws are sorted like mine, you probably have multiple head degrees in the same bin. I know I do. So even knowing about the angles, it's still a bit of a carp shoot.* I can't look at a screw and know for sure it's 82.

*Not sure what a carp shoot is exactly, except that it doesn't get tagged by the automatic censor and sounds something like shooting fish in a barrel.