I actually did something right for once.

[JoshLikesSekiCityKnives]

I had made a post earlier about my Otanashi Noh Ken James Williams folding tactical knife having a slipping lock brand new when I would tap the spine lightly on the palm of my hand or leg.
Anyways. When I work on a knife or project which I have limited skills and tools at my disposal. My success rate is generally 1 out of 4 or sometimes 2 out of 4. Which equates to a 25% to 50% success rate depending on different factors.
I looked over the knife and noticed the lock bar and back of knife which connects to the lock bar.that makes contact did not appear worn or made incorrectly.
So I was puzzled and frustrated.
Then all the sudden after an hour of thought I came to the conclusion that the lock bar itself had phosphor black paint much like the handle and blade. And being a frame lock. Perhaps that was the culprit.
So I took some ultra fine sand paper and removed the thick layer of paint on the lock bar and then hit it with a sharpening stone on fine grit for 6 or 7 passes. With a very light and gentle hand.
Finished it off with a few Q tips soaked in rubbing alcohol. To remove and strip the rest of the residue. Leaving a very fine coat of phosphor paint that is almost gone.
I did this because I did not want to strip any steel on the lock bar and possibly cause lock rock.
I reassembled the knife and did a few gentle spine whacks on the palm of my hand.
Success. And **** happy since this was a gift from my Godmother and I did not need to deal with CRKT and the possibility of not being taken care of like the last knife I had of theirs with pretty bad lock rock.
I don't mean to toot my own horn and pat myself on the back. But is wonderful when you do a DIY project or repair that comes out perfect and not only fixes the problem. But boosts your self confidence.
Believe me. I was pretty much thinking I was doomed on this project.And I have messed up my share of knives and projects. My best advice is to take some photos and line the parts in order to make reassembly easier. I would have never thought coatings could affect locks in such a negative way.
I am **** proud of myself today. And for doing something right for a change.

[JoshLikesSekiCityKnives]

I will add a few photos once I figure out how to downsize them since the forum tells me my photos are too large.

[JRinFL]

I actually did something right for once.

Wow, I wonder what that feels like? No experience, personally.

Thanks for posting the details of the fix. It’ll likely help others with similar problems.

[JoshLikesSekiCityKnives]

I actually did something right for once.

Wow, I wonder what that feels like? No experience, personally.

Thanks for posting the details of the fix. It’ll likely help others with similar problems.

I can't believe how many past knives I messed up or could not fix over such a simple thing as phosphor paint on the lockbar.I can't believe such a small thing could affect locks so negatively. And that many companies do not know this themselves or look into it.
I am learning how to use an Amazon tablet. Once I figure out how to downsize photo files to fit on the forum page. I will post some pics.

[Doc Dan]

if the photos are on your phone or computer, go to postimage.org and upload the photo. Click on either hotlink for forums or thumbnails and paste the links.

[Doc Dan]

This issue about frame locks and liner locks failing gentle or medium spine whacks is another reason why many of us do not trust them, at all. On our cattle ranch we used to call them "fail locks." There are some who do a good job making these locks, but they are never going to be as strong as a back lock, CBBL, bolt lock, or Compression Lock.

Anyway, glad you seem to have sorted out some of the problems with the knife.

[JoshLikesSekiCityKnives]

This issue about frame locks and liner locks failing gentle or medium spine whacks is another reason why many of us do not trust them, at all. On our cattle ranch we used to call them "fail locks." There are some who do a good job making these locks, but they are never going to be as strong as a back lock, CBBL, bolt lock, or Compression Lock.

Anyway, glad you seem to have sorted out some of the problems with the knife.

I absolutely agree with you and your points on frame and liner locks. The majority of my knives are.Backlock, Tri Ad, and Axis/Able lock.. The one liner lock I own and trust is my Hogue EX-02. I have a.ZT 0990 still in box which is liner. And this Otanashi and my Ruike P108 are the only 2 frame locks I own. They both have a secondary safety. Which I almost never use.
I value safe locks over fidgety liner lock flippers any day of the week.
My Nemesis MPR 3T Tanto is a back lock. And I spent 5 months looking for a decent Tanto with a lock back as 95% of them are liner locks. And not a lock I consider very good and safe.
If the choice were up to me. I would design more locks on the market with Back locks. 75% of my folders are Back lock or Axis/Able lock.
To be completely honest. I look for this knife I fixed to fail within 3 to 6 months of normal EDC use.
I don't destruction test or use folders hard. But I do test all locks with a spine whack on my palm or leg for 3 to 4 whacks every 6 months.
If a knife fails from that. It needs fixed or replaced. If not for the sentimental value of being a gift from my Godmother. And the style of the blade. I would not own this knife.Due to the lock.

[bearrowland]

I respect you for doing that! Short of changing clips I've never had the courage to do my own repair.

[JoshLikesSekiCityKnives]

I respect you for doing that! Short of changing clips I've never had the courage to do my own repair.

Thanks bud. I normally will send it to the manufacturer or throw it in the trash concerning lock repair. Contrary to popular belief. Knife modding is not easy and can be dangerous. People who design knives are.trained professionals. It is very easy to mess up or get hurt. I DO NOT recommend in most cases for.casual users to disassemble or mod knives.
I only did this because it was a sentimental gift from my Godmother. Had it not been for that. I would have tried a.replacement or chucked it in the trash can.
I just feel like a customer having to fix a new knife due to companies overlooking things such as painted lock bar inserts causing blade disengagement. Is a bad sign of that companies ethics and competence.

[max808]

Your Otanashi has a manual LAWKS safety behind the pivot which allows you to lock the framebar in place after it's been deployed. Basically a folding Hissatsu it's my favorite CRKT by James Williams sensei.

[JoshLikesSekiCityKnives]

Your Otanashi has a manual LAWKS safety behind the pivot which allows you to lock the framebar in place after it's been deployed. Basically a folding Hissatsu it's my favorite CRKT by James Williams sensei.

I know. Thing is I forget about those safeties 90% of the time. I just wanted to fix the issue in case of forgetting to set the secondary lock or if a non knife nut friend plays with it.
I do love James Williams style of knives and wish I could afford one of his customs. I love Japanese inspired designs.
I'm decently tough. But I would not want to tick off Sensei James Williams. He is a legit bad futha Mucka.
This knife he designed is perfect for its intended purpose.
The only other CRKT knives I like are the M16\M21 series from Kit Carson and Obama or Shrill.

[max808]

Yes Sir, he is a legit sensei and likes traditional Japanese tanto which is perfect for its intended purpose like you point out. Reason why he upscaled the Shizuka to Otanashi per request from the boys in the field who apparently love these. Same with the fixed Hisshou which is about the most elite expression of that concept in production and was made in limited numbers to satisfy professionals who felt the Hissatsu was not quite convincing enough.

[max808]