EDC style fixed blade (sketched concept design)

[Tristan_david2001]

Hey all,
I just figured I’d share a look at this design I’ve been working on for about a week here and there. I’m quite proud of it, and wanted to see what kinda feedback I might get. Obviously some of my design language showcased here is inspired by spyderco. Some specs on the knife drawing:
Edge length: 3”
Full blade length: 3 5/8”
Handle length: 3 3/4”

[Tristan_david2001]

[Rusty_Shackelford]

Nice looking design!

[Tristan_david2001]

Nice looking design!

Thanks rusty, I appreciate the kind words!

[Tristan_david2001]

I would also love to know if anyone’s eye picks out something they think could use improving, I’m open minded to tweaking it

[remnar]

Have you seen the Spyderco Sjoerd? Very similar blade shape and specs but your handle appears to be a little more substantial, which I think I'd like better.

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SPFB49 ... ron-sheath

[Tristan_david2001]

Have you seen the Spyderco Sjoerd? Very similar blade shape and specs but your handle appears to be a little more substantial, which I think I'd like better.

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SPFB49 ... ron-sheath

I have not seen this version before, today I saw the thread in general of the drop point/sheepsfoot version. I would have to disagree that this blade shape and my design are very similar, most prominent feature I see they both share is a Saber grind and a finger choil. The stok fixed blade looks like a nice design too, without having held one though, i don’t think i really like how narrow it gets down at the choil.

[remnar]

Have you seen the Spyderco Sjoerd? Very similar blade shape and specs but your handle appears to be a little more substantial, which I think I'd like better.

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SPFB49 ... ron-sheath

I have not seen this version before, today I saw the thread in general of the drop point/sheepsfoot version. I would have to disagree that this blade shape and my design are very similar, most prominent feature I see they both share is a Saber grind and a finger choil. The stok fixed blade looks like a nice design too, without having held one though, i don’t think i really like how narrow it gets down at the choil.

I agree with you about the choil. Your handle design looks more comfortable and usable but it is hard to be sure without an in-hand comparison. I do think your design looks very good. Nice job!

[Tristan_david2001]

I just cut out the design to get a somewhat feel for how it fits the hand, I wear a men’s glove size xl for reference. I’d say judging by the how the outline feels to hold it would fit my hand very very well.

[Tristan_david2001]

Have you seen the Spyderco Sjoerd? Very similar blade shape and specs but your handle appears to be a little more substantial, which I think I'd like better.

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SPFB49 ... ron-sheath

I have not seen this version before, today I saw the thread in general of the drop point/sheepsfoot version. I would have to disagree that this blade shape and my design are very similar, most prominent feature I see they both share is a Saber grind and a finger choil. The stok fixed blade looks like a nice design too, without having held one though, i don’t think i really like how narrow it gets down at the choil.

I agree with you about the choil. Your handle design looks more comfortable and usable but it is hard to be sure without an in-hand comparison. I do think your design looks very good. Nice job!

I’m glad you like it remnar, your feedback is greatly appreciated!

[Rusty_Shackelford]

How would you plan to attach the handles to the knife? A pointer I received from someone who apprenticed with Fiddleback Forge is for your first and last pins to be close to the blade and butt of the handle. This is to reduce the potential of the scales separating from the tang if you’re pinning and epoxying the scales. I don’t remember the maximum distance he recommended offhand, but it was in the ballpark of 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch.

Your lanyard tube is placed well, but the front pin might be better if moved towards the blade a bit. With the middle pin moved to keep the visual balance.

If the plan is to use screws to allow the scales to be removed, I’m not sure whether the same theory applies.

[Tristan_david2001]

How would you plan to attach the handles to the knife? A pointer I received from someone who apprenticed with Fiddleback Forge is for your first and last pins to be close to the blade and butt of the handle. This is to reduce the potential of the scales separating from the tang if you’re pinning and epoxying the scales. I don’t remember the maximum distance he recommended offhand, but it was in the ballpark of 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch.

Your lanyard tube is placed well, but the front pin might be better if moved towards the blade a bit. With the middle pin moved to keep the visual balance.

If the plan is to use screws to allow the scales to be removed, I’m not sure whether the same theory applies.

Hey rusty, I would prefer using a male&female screw to attach the handle scales. that’s a good point about the placement of the front pin being a little too far from the top of handle, maybe adding a 3 pin and rebalance the spacing would
Be an improvement?

[austrian_spyder_fan]

It looks nice!
What handle material whould you prefer?

ASF

[Tristan_david2001]

It looks nice!
What handle material whould you prefer?

ASF

thank you,Austrian! I’m glad you like it. I love a good polished wood or micarta on a fixed blade aesthetically. But the idea of a grippy but smooth, durable rubber of some type seems like a more functional way to go (lightweight, grippy). Unfortunately the machinery to mold rubber handles doesn’t sound like something I’d be able to work with for a while.

[Tristan_david2001]

the former version of the design I had a ffg on the blade. I like how the lines look with this grind as well

[SpyderNut]

Very nice design you have there, Tristan. It looks like it would be very comfortable in-hand. I like the slightly negative blade angle as well. Nice work!

For handle hardware, you might want to check out KnifeKits.com. They have a pretty nice selection of fasteners in various sizes and configurations. Here's a link: https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/knife-ma ... 60_83.html

[Tristan_david2001]

Very nice design you have there, Tristan. It looks like it would be very comfortable in-hand. I like the slightly negative blade angle as well. Nice work!

For handle hardware, you might want to check out KnifeKits.com. They have a pretty nice selection of fasteners in various sizes and configurations. Here's a link: https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/knife-ma ... 60_83.html

Hey spydernut, I’m very happy to hear your positive feedback on the design, thank you very much! And I appreciate you sharing that link, this site certainly should be of use to me once I need these sorts of supplies.

[standy99]

I would move the handle to fit the tang a lot more than you have it at the front especially at the bottom where your finger is.

Here is a knife I made

[Tristan_david2001]

Hey standy99. I’m really not sure what you’re suggesting be changed. Nice knife you got there though

[standy99]

19612DDC-6381-4E85-B574-C7CBC8B53903.jpg5FFF3B12-7686-4A21-B501-42E656DDCCC4.jpg
I just cut out the design to get a somewhat feel for how it fits the hand, I wear a men’s glove size xl for reference. I’d say judging by the how the outline feels to hold it would fit my hand very very well.

In the picture above extend the handle a bit where your first finger is to go a bit closer to the blade.

Couldn’t do this that well on my iPad, but like here…..


It will be more comfortable in the hand with a bigger handle.