Upper Tier Sharpening Systems?

[JD Spydo]

OK I know that a few of you may be tired of discussing this subject but please bear with me. Because I've decided that with this upcoming check I'm getting soon that I'm going to pull the trigger on one of these premium sharpening systems. I've looked at the Wicked Edge and Edge Pro units in particular and there are things I like and dislike about both of them.

I know that all these newer Work Sharp tools put out by Ken Onion are rated with high quality and I'm also looking all of those over as well. Now my friend Evil D uses the Edge Pro and has had good things to say about that system. But I also spoke to an old friend over at bladeforums the other day and he's just elated with his new Wicked Edge system.

But please let's chat about these different high end sharpening tools at length. Because I want to take my sharpening to a higher level and I want to get the best for my money I've got a TORMEK wet grinder that I really like for some sharpening jobs and it's great for reprofiling and removing all the nicks and dings and all the major damage from a heavily used blade. But I want something that is also great at finishing. So let's chat about what's available at this time on the open market.

[JRinFL]

I have no experience with any sharpener above the KME level, but I have read great things about the Russian sharpeners at Gritomatic.

[JD Spydo]

I have no experience with any sharpener above the KME level, but I have read great things about the Russian sharpeners at Gritomatic.

I've heard good things about KME. However the guy that told me that also told me that those "Work Sharp" sharpening tools were even better for most applications.

I know there are a lot of guys here on the Forum who have either Edge Pro or Wicked Edge systems. What amazes me on the other hand is the amount of the newer members I've met that swear by nothing but freehanding benchstones.

I think so far I'm probably going to lean in the direction of getting an Edge Pro.

[JRinFL]

I went with the KME because at the time it seemed best in its price range. The EPs seem to hold the sweet spot in the next tier up sharpeners.
I also have a Ken Onion WS, but mostly because of a very low Amazon pricing error. Someday I'll put it through its paces by sharpening all my outdoors machetes and tools. On Ontario I use as froe or kindling splitter needs lots of work on the edge, it really needs to be thinned out as well.

[JD Spydo]

I went with the KME because at the time it seemed best in its price range. The EPs seem to hold the sweet spot in the next tier up sharpeners.
I also have a Ken Onion WS, but mostly because of a very low Amazon pricing error. Someday I'll put it through its paces by sharpening all my outdoors machetes and tools. On Ontario I use as froe or kindling splitter needs lots of work on the edge, it really needs to be thinned out as well.

I've noticed in the advertisements in my past 4 BLADE and Knives Illustrated magazines that they are coming out with a lot more of those "Work Sharp" sharpening tools. And they all look like they are decent quality tools too.

I've always heard a lot of good things about Ken Onion over the years and I might just have to give his stuff a try.

[kerrcobra]

I have just about every single WorkSharp tool that they’ve made so far and all of the attachments for them - with the exception of the WS2000 (because I have the WS3000 instead) and the crappy pull-through sharpeners they’ve just come out with. I have two of the original WSKTS, the KO WSKTS and each of the attachments for it, the WS3000, several guided field sharpeners, the guided sharpening system and the upgrade kit, the pocket hone, etc. - and I have loads of aftermarket belts in all sizes, materials and grits. When I use them I like to progress through the systems and use the higher rpm setting for stock removal and then progress down to using the low rpms on the ws3000 for finishing to keep from overheating my edge...so anyway I’ll give you my .02 on the Work Sharp -

It’s a great tool. I love it...for what it is. However, it’s extremely easy to round the tip of a knife (at least for me with my slightly unsteady hands) or scratch the side of your blade if you don’t cover it in masking tape (now I still make this mistake with freehand sharpening, but I’m probably the outlier with my unsteady hands)...or to burn the edge of the knife as some folks say is possible and ruin the temper at the edge. I can’t say I’ve done this, but I can see how one could if they were sloppy- all that friction heats it up quick. Also, it puts a convex edge on - the degree of convexity (I’m borrowing this term :) ) depends on what angle you hold the knife at and how much pressure you apply downwards. Anyway, there are guides for the WSKTS systems, but they’re crap. And if it sounds like I’m trying to talk you out of buying the WSKTS that’s because I am. I’d recommend it to a casual person who isn’t as invested or particularly caring of or about their knives, but from one afi to another I would say get one of the guided systems or go freehand.

I’m typing this on mobile, and I started rambling there somewhat so hopefully this makes sense.

[JD Spydo]

I have just about every single WorkSharp tool that they’ve made so far and all of the attachments for them - with the exception of the WS2000 (because I have the WS3000 instead) and the crappy pull-through sharpeners they’ve just come out with. I have two of the original WSKTS, the KO WSKTS and each of the attachments for it, the WS3000, several guided field sharpeners, the guided sharpening system and the upgrade kit, the pocket hone, etc. - and I have loads of aftermarket belts in all sizes, materials and grits. When I use them I like to progress through the systems and use the higher rpm setting for stock removal and then progress down to using the low rpms on the ws3000 for finishing to keep from overheating my edge...so anyway I’ll give you my .02 on the Work Sharp -

It’s a great tool. I love it...for what it is. However, it’s extremely easy to round the tip of a knife (at least for me with my slightly unsteady hands) or scratch the side of your blade if you don’t cover it in masking tape (now I still make this mistake with freehand sharpening, but I’m probably the outlier with my unsteady hands)...or to burn the edge of the knife as some folks say is possible and ruin the temper at the edge. I can’t say I’ve done this, but I can see how one could if they were sloppy- all that friction heats it up quick. Also, it puts a convex edge on - the degree of convexity (I’m borrowing this term :) ) depends on what angle you hold the knife at and how much pressure you apply downwards. Anyway, there are guides for the WSKTS systems, but they’re crap. And if it sounds like I’m trying to talk you out of buying the WSKTS that’s because I am. I’d recommend it to a casual person who isn’t as invested or particularly caring of or about their knives, but from one afi to another I would say get one of the guided systems or go freehand.

I’m typing this on mobile, and I started rambling there somewhat so hopefully this makes sense.

So overall you think I would do good to just get a bunch of those WORK SHARP tools? I am giving it some consideration. However I still think I would like to try out one of those EDGE PRO or WICKED EDGE sharpening systems as well. Everyone I talk to gives thumbs up to both of those system as well.

I'm also hearing more and more about those KME kits as well.

[kerrcobra]

So overall you think I would do good to just get a bunch of those WORK SHARP tools? I am giving it some consideration. However I still think I would like to try out one of those EDGE PRO or WICKED EDGE sharpening systems as well. Everyone I talk to gives thumbs up to both of those system as well.

I'm also hearing more and more about those KME kits as well.

No, I would suggest you look elsewhere, something other than the Worksharp, and get one of the guided systems like an Edge Pro, Wicked Edge or KME.

[Naperville]

Pete on the "Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors" YouTube channel was given a KME by Nick Shabazz. Pete has at least 4 sharpening systems: stones; KME; Tormek; WorkSharp, and possibly more. He has reviewed them all on his channel.

In most of the videos he defaults to using the KME. For a guided system he uses the KME to place a working edge on the knives and he does some really nice work.

Now, do I think the KME is anywhere near capable of placing the same quality of edge on a knife as a Wicked Edge? NO. But if you are just looking for a good quality working edge from a guided system, I think the KME is OK.

Is the KME an "upper tier" sharpening system? I'll leave that to you to decide. I'm looking for a guided system at the moment too, and I think I'll settle for the KME.

Pete's review of the KME
https://youtu.be/4iCJW6iLMlE

[JRinFL]

As an owner of the KME, I'd say it is mid-tier and NOT upper tier. It occupies a sweet spot of price vs performance. IMO, at least. If you get one make sure to heck out some of the upgrades available from Gritomatic.

[JD Spydo]

Pete on the "Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors" YouTube channel was given a KME by Nick Shabazz. Pete has at least 4 sharpening systems: stones; KME; Tormek; WorkSharp, and possibly more. He has reviewed them all on his channel.

In most of the videos he defaults to using the KME. For a guided system he uses the KME to place a working edge on the knives and he does some really nice work.

Now, do I think the KME is anywhere near capable of placing the same quality of edge on a knife as a Wicked Edge? NO. But if you are just looking for a good quality working edge from a guided system, I think the KME is OK.

Is the KME an "upper tier" sharpening system? I'll leave that to you to decide. I'm looking for a guided system at the moment too, and I think I'll settle for the KME.

Pete's review of the KME
https://youtu.be/4iCJW6iLMlE

Thanks Naperville I"ll check all of that out. Haven't heard of that YT channel but I'll check it out as well. I've got time on my hands for the next 3 weeks and I'll try to do as much learning as possible. I know that our good Brother Evil D sure likes his Edge Pro unit. And I've heard some interesting things about the Wicked Edge too.

I actually put just a bit more emphasis on my sharpening gear than I do with the knives on my "gotta-have" list. Because a dull knife is about the most useless tool there is. Keeping any edged tool sharp is just part of maintaining them.

[Naperville]

Thanks Naperville I"ll check all of that out. Haven't heard of that YT channel but I'll check it out as well. I've got time on my hands for the next 3 weeks and I'll try to do as much learning as possible. I know that our good Brother Evil D sure likes his Edge Pro unit. And I've heard some interesting things about the Wicked Edge too.

I actually put just a bit more emphasis on my sharpening gear than I do with the knives on my "gotta-have" list. Because a dull knife is about the most useless tool there is. Keeping any edged tool sharp is just part of maintaining them.

Pete is a good egg. His results for knife steel tests are not as reliable as Dr Larrin Thomas, but they are pretty decent.

Scroll down to see what Pete has been testing:
https://www.youtube.com/c/CedricAda/videos

Full steel testing list for Pete's cut test videos, FREE to all.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... d=43566811

[kennethsime]

I asked a similar question awhile back JD and the overwhelming response was to go for a Hapstone V7 from Gritomatic for the money. An added bonus is that you can use your sharpmaker rods with it. I think they V7 is out of production and the new version is the V8, but it still seems like the best bang for your buck if you're ok buying from Russia/Ukraine/wherever they are.

[JD Spydo]

I asked a similar question awhile back JD and the overwhelming response was to go for a Hapstone V7 from Gritomatic for the money. An added bonus is that you can use your sharpmaker rods with it. I think they V7 is out of production and the new version is the V8, but it still seems like the best bang for your buck if you're ok buying from Russia/Ukraine/wherever they are.

I'm going to have to take a much closer look at this Hapstone V7 unit. Because I really like any system that you can use your own sharpening stones with. I don't like these sharpening kits/systems that you have to use their proprietary sharpening stones.
A few years ago I bought a sharpening kit called the SKARB at one of the BLADE shows. I liked it for that very reason. And with the SKARB kit you can use stones as big as 10 inches long.
Yeah I'm gonna take a closer look at the KME and Hapstone V7 both.

[JRinFL]

Gritomatic makes a universal stone holder for the KME sharpeners. At least they did and I have one.

Edit:

Still available. https://www.gritomatic.com/collections/ ... and-lansky

[abbazaba]

For context, I freehand just well enough to get a sharp edge, but I'm not consistent. Been trying since I was single digits.

I regularly use my Sharpmaker more than anything, but mostly for touchups.

The Worksharp I have is great for the kitchen knives that see a lot of abuse by non knife people in my house. Acceptably sharp in a matter of seconds. Rounded tips on most of them :/

Tried the Edgepro and Lansky but was disappointed in the lack of exactness (could be user error).

My first Wicked Edge was a mixed bag with the first gen clamping system. However, the 2017 gen 3 cam clamp upgrade is awesome... This is what the WE should have been from the start. It locks up dead vertical with no slippage every time. I did a bunch of random (unnecessary) modifications and addons and I like that the system encourages a little DIY (starting with finding and customizing a base).

Being able to reprofile a priceless knife with confidence is not something I ever felt comfortable doing before getting the WE. It has its limitations and is quite expensive, but if you want perfect reprofiling with the least room for error I'm not sure there is a better option. I got the 2017 gen 3 clamp when it was released and have been very happy since with no interest in getting something else.

[TenGrainBread]

I just bought a Wicked Edge WE130. Sharpmaker works great but I wanted something that is faster and more precise for reprofiling hard steels. The small surface area of the diamond rods on the Sharpmaker make it just too inconvenient for resetting the bevel angle. Will report back when I get it set up.

[ZrowsN1s]

I have a KME, Sharpmaker, and WE130.
All have their strong points and short comings.

Sharpmaker Good: Once you have your knife profiled to 15 dps or 20 dps the Sharpmaker is FAST for touching up blades you use everyday. Its under $200 to get SM + ultrafine + CBN stones. For serrations there is nothing better period.

Sharpmaker Bad: Only two angles to choose from. Only 1 grit available in CBN/Diamond. It takes FOR-EVER to reprofile a new knife to 15dps. As I've said a better name would be the sharp keeper, not the sharpmaker.

KME Good: It's a guided system so more precise than something like a sharpmaker, several grits from 100-1200 in Good Diamond stones. Sharp uniform edges. They sell a rounded diamond hone '1-2-3 jewel stick' that has 3 grits for curved and hawkbill blades that is excellent. As well as a tapered diamond needle for serrations (I prefer sharpmaker).

KME Bad: 17dps is lowest setting. There are ways around this, but you need to take the KME apart and flip the guide eyelet upside down. Not easily taken apart, parts are red loctite bound. It's a clamp system that you flip over for each side, I've found that the angle isn't the same when you flip it. Not a huge variation, but it can be noticeable. Angle gauge recommend. The diamond stones and stone carrier are small. Less than half the length of a sharpmaker rod. So no long strokes. A lot of back and forth. Hard to go full heel to tip with an edge in one stroke. If you dont pay attention this can cause you to overwork a part of the edge making your edge uneven.

Wicked Edge 130 Good: Precise, professional, better than factory, sharp edges. Highly adjustable (to 1/10 of a degree). The tension on the clamping system is easily adjustable. You can work both sides of the edge at the same time. Diamond grits From 50 to 3000. You can easily set the guide rods to match an existing edge if you dont want to reprofile. If you have a blade with 15.4 degrees on one side and 16.2 degrees on the other, you can sharpen that without reprofiling. Just set one side to 15.4 the other side to 16.2 and sharpen both at the same time.

WE130 Bad: Price. Price. Price. Be prepared to cough up $1,200 for all the bells and whistles. Not as many aftermaket stones to choose from like edgepro. Even with the low angle attachment it is difficult to shapen small knives on the WE. It gets hard to sharpen the heel of small knives and I find I need to use painters tape to keep them from wiggling around. By small knife I mean like a McBee or ladybug. There is a break in period on WE stones, sharpen a few cheap knives to break them in, otherwise they are agressive and scratch blades. They only sell ONE ceramic stone for hawkbills, and NOTHING for serrations. It is a very precise system adjustment wise, but you 100% need a digital angle guide, and need to adjust the guide rods to each knife you sharpen.

[JRinFL]

Great rundown by Zrow, thanks for that.

By adding the Gritomatic universal stone holder to the KME, you can greatly expand the stones available to you. It supports longer stones, but there is going to be limit based on the geometry of the clamp to rod guide distance.

[Dazen]

Has anyone here tried the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener?!

https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/sha ... sharpener/