Winter is slowly coming, and it is a time that I like to make a knife (or two) again. This is a teoretical project, it might or might not happened.
I have been messing with this desing. It is smaller fixed blade, blade lenght is 8,2 cm, total lenght is around 18,8 cm.
Steel will be RWL-34, 2,6mm thick. Scales....orange micarta, they are 8 mm thick, so the knife will be kinda thin. I have some G10 liners, but they are 2 mm thick, which is going to be a bit too much I guess.
Purpose is smaller lightweight knife.
Not sure about grind, maybe FFG, maybe not, also the swedge is optional.
The desing is heavely inspired by Native, but without choil (no purpose on fixed blade IMO).
Need input on knife desing
Need input on knife desing
In the pocket: Chaparral FRN, Native Chief, Police 4 K390, Pacific Salt SE, Manix 2 G10 REX45
Re: Need input on knife desing
Reminds me a lot of the Proficient. Seems like a great all-around/bushcraft design. I like it! :)
Rick H.
..well, that escalated quickly..
..well, that escalated quickly..
- legOFwhat?
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Re: Need input on knife desing
I dig the shape, it's close to MT dimensions. I also like a meaty handle, most of the mules I've done I've ended with around 15mm total thickness, it seems to hit the sweet spot for me, but IMO 20+mm scales plus the tang seems too much. It's easy to remove material and shape it like you want though. I love liners on knives too!
-Larry
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MNOSD #0049
Hebrews 13:6 So we may boldly say: “The Lord is my helper; I will not fear. What can man do to me?”
MNOSD #0049
- standy99
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Re: Need input on knife desing
If your using a piece of steel that is longer than the 18.8cm use as much as you can of the steel.
Same as above 15-17mm is enough for handle. I have tried to stick to 1mm liners only.
More clamps the better when clamping.
Same as above 15-17mm is enough for handle. I have tried to stick to 1mm liners only.
More clamps the better when clamping.
Im a vegetarian as technically cows are made of grass and water.
Re: Need input on knife desing
Funny how I completly change my mind about the design.
It depends on if I could thin my collection, I would like to sell two knives and then I could make one or two fixed blade.
It depends on if I could thin my collection, I would like to sell two knives and then I could make one or two fixed blade.
In the pocket: Chaparral FRN, Native Chief, Police 4 K390, Pacific Salt SE, Manix 2 G10 REX45
- C_Claycomb
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Re: Need input on knife desing
Have you considered doing a hidden tang? If you want lighter weight, that is the way to go. Sure, you could taper the tang on the grinder, but if you are not practiced (my problem) or don't have quite the right gear (also my problem) it can be a bit of a PITA keeping everything flat, finished and then drilling the holes for the handle with the tang being angled.
The stock you have, and the 2mm liner don't quite work, but some 0.115" G10 from Alpha wouldn't be all that expensive. Then you could do a frame handle with the G10 standing in for steel around the perimeter, with a flat rectangular hidden tang as far back as the third handle pin. The lanyard tube would just go through the Micarta/G10/Micarta. If you were nervous about the G10 and micarta not being pinned at the front of the handle, you could use some blind dowel pins or bits of 1/16 brass rod.
You get the profile of a full tang, no need to mess with guard fitting, but lighter weight, easier handle shaping, no steel/handle glue line. The knives in these pictures used 1/8th blade stock and I never had any concern batonning on mine. I did use a closer fit with the pins and tang than is sometimes suggested for full tangs, I wanted load to go from blade to side slabs, not so much to the frame piece.
Frame Tang by Last Scratch, on Flickr
The all the micarta handles here have rabbet hidden tangs with hidden pins, so no filler frame, but you need a router or mill and handle material thick enough to get your desired width. In the case of the middle knife, which is the best of the small ones, max handle width 0.733" (18.62mm), min 0.635". Thickness of scale stock was 10mm.
IMG_1006 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
I am not a swedge fan. I would say either round the spine over so that it is super comfortable for finger placement, or leave it sharp for use as a scraper for a ferro-rod fire starter. Either way, if you want to tap with a baton it will be better than a swedge.
Best of luck :)
Chris
The stock you have, and the 2mm liner don't quite work, but some 0.115" G10 from Alpha wouldn't be all that expensive. Then you could do a frame handle with the G10 standing in for steel around the perimeter, with a flat rectangular hidden tang as far back as the third handle pin. The lanyard tube would just go through the Micarta/G10/Micarta. If you were nervous about the G10 and micarta not being pinned at the front of the handle, you could use some blind dowel pins or bits of 1/16 brass rod.
You get the profile of a full tang, no need to mess with guard fitting, but lighter weight, easier handle shaping, no steel/handle glue line. The knives in these pictures used 1/8th blade stock and I never had any concern batonning on mine. I did use a closer fit with the pins and tang than is sometimes suggested for full tangs, I wanted load to go from blade to side slabs, not so much to the frame piece.
Frame Tang by Last Scratch, on Flickr
The all the micarta handles here have rabbet hidden tangs with hidden pins, so no filler frame, but you need a router or mill and handle material thick enough to get your desired width. In the case of the middle knife, which is the best of the small ones, max handle width 0.733" (18.62mm), min 0.635". Thickness of scale stock was 10mm.
IMG_1006 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
I am not a swedge fan. I would say either round the spine over so that it is super comfortable for finger placement, or leave it sharp for use as a scraper for a ferro-rod fire starter. Either way, if you want to tap with a baton it will be better than a swedge.
Best of luck :)
Chris
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Re: Need input on knife desing
I have little to add other than to keep the swedge! Let's not let the FFG-boring-steak-knife mafia take over knife design! :cool:
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- Naperville
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Re: Need input on knife desing
Those are really nice looking knives! I always did like the Spyderco version. Now I can see that it is spot on.C_Claycomb wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 6:19 am
IMG_1006 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
I am not a swedge fan. I would say either round the spine over so that it is super comfortable for finger placement, or leave it sharp for use as a scraper for a ferro-rod fire starter. Either way, if you want to tap with a baton it will be better than a swedge.
Best of luck :)
Chris
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Re: Need input on knife desing
Mr. Claycomb, your informations was great, I never thing about making a handle this way. I think I could make a knife like that. I really like this approach.
The design could change, but I really like that I don't need to shape the entire handle part of the tang, just make a tail.
The design could change, but I really like that I don't need to shape the entire handle part of the tang, just make a tail.
In the pocket: Chaparral FRN, Native Chief, Police 4 K390, Pacific Salt SE, Manix 2 G10 REX45
- C_Claycomb
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Re: Need input on knife desing
There are times when a FFG-boring-steak-knife is a good look....like when you want a knife for cutting steak! :D
Swedges do look good, they can help aesthetic interest for sure. My dislike is purely functional for how I used a knife, ymmv :)
How about make the swedge raised? If it doesn't cause problems, regrind it a little lower. If it becomes annoying, grind it off and the spine will be mostly flat.