What do you sharpen with?

[alexthegreat]

Hey all,

I'm looking to get into actually sharpening my knives for once in my life, and I wanted some recommendations as to what you all use and recommend. I've got a variety (Spyderco, BM, Kershaw, etc.) so whichever sharpener can be the most versatile (i.e. sharpen a wider variety of knives with as few parts as possible) is what I'm looking for. I've been eyeing the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker for some time, and I assume that many of you here have used it extensively. But please let me know any other information that you're willing to give.

Thank you!

[The Deacon]

I've been sharpening knives freehand for over 60 years and almost all my sharpening these days is done with DMT Diamond Stones. I have four of them, X-Fine, Fine, Coarse, and X-Coarse but the FIne and Coarse see the most use. I also have a Tri-Angle Sharpmaker, but reserve that for sharpening serrated blades. Since the only serrated knives I use are a couple Spyderco Kitchen Sharps, the Sharpmaker does not see much use.

[me2]

I use a Norton 220 grit water stone, a King 1000 grit water stone, a King 4000 grit stone (rarely and only on my Japanese kitchen knives), a Norton Economy Coarse/Fine combo stone, and a Sharpmaker with standard rods (no diamond, CBN, or UF). I also occasionally use some 0.3 micron lapping films on an aluminum backing plate made for sharpening planes and chisels, but only do this very rarely. I'm considering replacing the Norton Economy with a Coarse/Fine India stone. Also, with the Norton stones, I use a DMT Aligner clamp on the table top. I have one knife in S110V, a Spyderco Manix Lightweight, and for this I have small coarse, fine, and extra-fine DMT diamond stones. Rough beveling on the Manix is still done with the Norton 220, but final sharpening/microbeveling is done on the DMT stones.

[toxophilus]

Sharpmaker / EdgePro / Wicked Edge

With the last two listed you can go as plain or not depending on where you want to be with your bevels; lately I've preferred a coarser bevel finish.

[OldHoosier62]

I have enough stones (both natural and man made) to fill 2 Gerstner tool boxes, an EdgePro, old 5 stone Lasky, 1x30, 2x72 and a 4x36 belt grinder and a pile of DMT "stones". I use them all for different tasks, sharpening, gunsmithing, polishing and a hundred other things.

My recommendation is learn how to free hand sharpen your knives as it is a skill that you will have even when you don't have the fancy gadgets around. Lots of good YouTube videos available, advice from here and over on Bladeforums... Even possible to pick up good tips from your local butcher.

[alexthegreat]

So for DMT, would you recommend these models, or different ones? I'll probably go with freehand first since like Hoosier said, it's a good skill to have.

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/6-Diamon ... P6C21.aspx

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/8-Diamon ... P2C22.aspx

[Evil D]

Reprofile with an Edge Pro, maintain and daily touch ups on a Sharpmaker.

[standy99]

Being a ex butcher I use my fathers ( he was a butcher also ) old wet stone that is 40+ years old and nearly worn through in the middle. Two sided coarse and fine.

Also touch up on my old butchers steel that's probably 30 years. F-Dick flat steel.
All freehand

[ChrisinHove]

I use only the Sharpmaker, with the standard plus the diamond rods. It's excellent.

Whatever you choose, practice on cheap knives first.

[vivi]

So for DMT, would you recommend these models, or different ones? I'll probably go with freehand first since like Hoosier said, it's a good skill to have.

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/6-Diamon ... P6C21.aspx

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/8-Diamon ... P2C22.aspx

I'd go with the solid surface DMT stones instead of the ones with holes. They work better in my experience.

I'd go with the 8" or 11" stones. 11" is better but 8" are cheaper.

I use DMT stones for reprofiling factory edges to thinner angles. I use the sharpmaker or my ultrafine spyderco benchstone for touch-ups, all free-hand, includingthe sharpmaker. I rarely use it as intended and instead lay a rod flat on the base and hold that in my left hand and the knife in my right.

These days I never strop, it collects dust. Most my knives are finished with the brown sharpmaker rods, but certain knives I prefer the more polished, UF edge.

[Water Bug]

I primarily use my Spyderco 204MF Tri-Angle Sharpmaker for all of my sharpening needs... I have the standard Spyderco Tri-Angle Medium and Fine Stones that came with the Sharpmaker, and I purchased the Spyderco Tri-Angle Diamond Stones for really dull edges. The beauty of the Sharpmaker is that you can configure it for use as a free-handed bench stone, and I've done that with the Diamond Stones for really dull edges.

I also have the Norton Combination Crystolon Stone (11-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 1", two-sided stone with a coarse side for establishing an edge and a fine side for refining the edge), along with the Norton Large Stone Holder, for free-handed sharpening for really stubbornly dull edges. I go with this stone when I can't get the job done with my Sharpmaker.

[Mako109]

I hate sharpening, or used to. Never had the patience to develop the skill. Struggled with a Sharpmaker, med and fine rods, plus diamond rods. Eventually learned I needed a "guided" system. Settled on a KME after learning that both Nick Shabazz and BirdshotIV, both Edgepro users, prefer the KME (watch their Youtube reviews). So I purchased a kit, watched a few how-to vids on Youtube, and bang right out of the gate was able to attain the best reprofile with even bevels and a scary sharp edge I've ever achieved. Still practicing, but now feel I have real control of what I'm doing, and can see positive and immediate results as I learn. Most of all, I now enjoy sharpening. Still use the Sharpmaker for touchups.

Addendum - I'm using the KME for blades 5" or less; not sure well KME's clamp system works for longer blades for which there may be systems better suited.

[The Deacon]

So for DMT, would you recommend these models, or different ones? I'll probably go with freehand first since like Hoosier said, it's a good skill to have.

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/6-Diamon ... P6C21.aspx

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/8-Diamon ... P2C22.aspx

Started using DMTs about 10 years ago. These are the ones I use, and I think they do an excellent job, but they're the only DMTs I've used, so I can't give you comparative info.

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/6-Diamon ... P6C21.aspx

[OldHoosier62]

So for DMT, would you recommend these models, or different ones? I'll probably go with freehand first since like Hoosier said, it's a good skill to have.

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/6-Diamon ... P6C21.aspx

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/8-Diamon ... P2C22.aspx

Those are the ones I have... Both sizes fortunately, I started with 6in. and got lucky at the Tulsa Gunshow a couple of months later and acquired a complete set of 8in. for $100 from a guy selling off his stuff. I've used them for years now and they still do a fine job...and I use them a lot.

[jpm2]

99% of my sharpening for the last 30 years has been with a Norton jb8(100/320), eze-laps coarse(250), medium(400), fine(600).
I just recently acquired an eze-lap extra fine(1200).
The Norton is for hogging off metal/shaping/profiling.
I always finish on diamond, regardless of the steel, whether it's the c/m/f/ef.
Strop on bare denim a couple passes after deburr, just to clean up the microscopic hairy edge.
If I use 1 micron diamond paste on denim, it's only to finish the coarse(250), for a very clean aggressive edge.

[kwakster]

A Tormek T7 wet sharpening machine fitted with an SB 250 Blackstone (black silicon carbide) for major edge repair & reprofiling.
Rubber Wheels with diamond grit for intermediate work, and Paper Wheels with various diamond compounds for fine polishing & deburring.
Most knives on the Tormek i do freehand, some in a jig (and lately experimenting with my version of Herman's knife rest)
On both the Rubber Wheels and Paper Wheels everything gets freehanded.

[Eli Chaps]

KME Sharpening System and freehand with different stone types and grits. What I use depends on the task and my mood but the KME sees a lot of use these days.

[SharpieB]

Sharpmaker for my good knives only as it takes me a lot of time to sharpen a knife with the SM as I have only had it a few months.

For my beaters and camp knives, I have a few cheap Vaughan sharpening blocks and pocket stones. They work great and sharpen quick but I scratch the blades a lot. I wouldn’t dream of using these on my good knives unless it was an emergency.

[kianconnor07]

Right now it’s a Chef’ Sharpener on my countertop. A fairly new brand, saw it in a review on my favorite kitchen blog Healthykitchen101, and because there was a discount I decided to give it a try. It’s a solid item and works great so far. It has 3 slots with diamond, tungsten, and ceramic respectively for sharpening and honing. Takes about 1 - 2 minutes to bring a knife back to factory sharpeness. Probably not ideal for expensive single-beveled Japanese knives, but for my cheap knives it’s a salvage.

[anagarika]

I use DMT and Spyderco UF rod.

For hogging off metal, use cheap 10$ DMD diamond from China.

Most importantly is to understand what is sharpening and the relevant aspects, so here’re some good threads:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/wha ... s.1014274/

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the ... x.1628756/

Understanding the basics will help troubleshooting regardless of the equipment when results are not as expected.

Here’s one more by Eli where people shared anecdotes
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sha ... gs.1598690