"Beater Knife" - I don't get it...

[Eli Chaps]

So first, yes I understand what people mean when they reference a beater knife.

Second, the obligatory but sincere disclaimer of to each their own and all of that.

That said, I just truly don't get this whole "beater knife" idea. Why? What tasks would one want to perform with a knife, especially a folder, that would fall into the beater knife category? If the word abuse comes into play doesn't that by definition mean you shouldn't be using your knife for that task?

But if we're talking hard use or maybe negligent care, then wouldn't you want the BEST knife suited for those conditions? It's like the golden age of knives right now. Steels, handle material, locks, styles, and more have just about everything covered.

If there's some task that you're looking at and thinking, not with this knife (whatever is in your pocket) cuz it's too nice or expensive, then do you have the right knife? Or is a knife even right for whatever task you're looking at?

A quality knife is meant to replace a "beater" knife in my mind. I don't want "beater" knives if that is defined as cheap knives I don't mind abusing. I want knives that will handle the tasks and conditions I need them to handle and I want to and do, throw away crap knives people give to me.

I'm not trying to be pretentious in anyway. I'm all about bang-for-your buck value and even hard using knives but I seek out knives that will fill needed roles rather than have some cheap crap that will only fluster me or fail.

I'm not going to be prying, or scraping, or driving screws, etc. with a knife. Cheap or not. That's just knot the job they were meant for.

So what say you all about this term, beater knife?

[Donut]

If I had to cut up some roofing shingles... that contain stones, I wouldn't want to use a knife that I value and get it all scratched up.

I mean, especially a gentleman's knife like a Caly 3 CF or a Sage with some nice looking scales.

I like Wouter's idea, don't cut anything that you know is harder than the steel you're cutting with. I do carry a harder use knife (that sure isn't cheap) that I would put through some rougher cutting tasks than my primary carry knife.


I've seen some maintenance guys pry open a door latch with their $20 made in China Walmart knife. I wouldn't want to pry with one of my knives, I wouldn't want to break off the edge with one of my knives.

I think a disposable razor blade has some really good uses.

Which one of your knives is best if you want to try to cut up some cardboard that you know has some of those really thick staples in it? Is M4 better at taking some bad damage? (It probably is better, but I still don't want to use it for that.)

[Evil D]

Basically for any crappy task I wouldn't use an expensive knife for. Sometimes it's nice to literally not give a crap if your knife gets damaged or scratched up, etc.

[paladin]

Situation plays a part also...

Even my 25th Anniv. Delica would be pressed into service as an extraction tool if I flipped my car....

that's an extreme example, of course.

Potential perception of "beater-ability" can be adjusted if the manufacturer* has an unconditional replacement warranty also.

*BUSSE

[spyderg]

+1 for use on shingles. I always carry a knife and I'm always willing to use said knife as needed but if I know it's going to be a job like shingles, or a good example was a couple of weeks ago I had to cut some weed guard out from in between layers of limestone and decorative stone. The blade surely would and indeed did make contact with some rocks. Also cutting some hd fishing line I had to use to reattach the Xmas decorations with, cutting it up against the stucco made for a few dull spots. For these situations I prefer to grab a "beater" like my Tenacious or Rat1 rather than my PM2. Mind you I used my lrg Insingo Sebenza to cut some metal downspout extension pieces last fall. I was too lazy to go get a beater and the Insingo barely dulled but did suffer one small chip that I would have rather seen on my Tenacious...
Also I keep a beater in both mine and the wife's vehicles. You never know what kind of tool your knife might need to become on the side of a road! Not to mention they are out of sight so out of mind and if they get a bit of rust from hot humid glove box it doesn't hurt as bad on a $30 knife as it would a $100+ knife. Same thing applies if it gets stolen.

[Ferris Wheels]

I have what I call beater knives but it isn't because I use them for tasks I consider abuse. I use my beater classified knives because I don't want to deal with things like excessive dirt, pitch, edge rolls/chips, rapid dulling, etc... on the knives that are in my EDC rotation. Just like I have clothes I put on for working around the property so I don't have to spend valuable time getting stains out of or repairing holes, etc... The knives in my beater rotation are not cheap knives, they are a CTS-204P Military and a S35VN Para2 and they are my trusted companions when completing tasks on our 6 acres. I open bags of fertilizer and soil, cut back plants, use the Military like a mini machete on black berries, trim rough cuts on lumber, scrape away crud when working on the tractor, cut roots when digging holes for planting or putting in post holes, prune branches when a more suitable tool isn't available, etc...

The beater knives rarely get anything more then oiling of the pivots, sharpening and gunk blown out with the air compressor. So in the end, I consider my beater knives to be time savers because I don't fret over keeping them in pristine condition or putting them to use on a potentially dirty, disgusting or damaging job. After it is all said and done, my two beater knives are probably more of a tool in my eyes then any of the other dozens of knives I own.

[Eli Chaps]

I have what I call beater knives but it isn't because I use them for tasks I consider abuse. I use my beater classified knives because I don't want to deal with things like excessive dirt, pitch, edge rolls/chips, rapid dulling, etc... on the knives that are in my EDC rotation. Just like I have clothes I put on for working around the property so I don't have to spend valuable time getting stains out of or repairing holes, etc... The knives in my beater rotation are not cheap knives, they are a CTS-204P Military and a S35VN Para2 and they are my trusted companions when completing tasks on our 6 acres. I open bags of fertilizer and soil, cut back plants, use the Military like a mini machete on black berries, trim rough cuts on lumber, scrape away crud when working on the tractor, cut roots when digging holes for planting or putting in post holes, prune branches when a more suitable tool isn't available, etc...

The beater knives rarely get anything more then oiling of the pivots, sharpening and gunk blown out with the air compressor. So in the end, I consider my beater knives to be time savers because I don't fret over keeping them in pristine condition or putting them to use on a potentially dirty, disgusting or damaging job. After it is all said and done, my two beater knives are probably more of a tool in my eyes then any of the other dozens of knives I own.

Now this is pretty much what I was getting at. I totally get this. Using a good knife in a hard way, in a way it was built for, is exactly right. For something like shingles, I personally wouldn't use an EDC type knife for that. In my mind, that would be the wrong tool and I would use a utility knife.

I guess I just run into a lot of folks who will buy for example a $130 PM2 and then only use it for opening envelopes or cutting leftovers and cringe at the notion of it possibly getting hurt doing something more strenuous. That knife is built to work. Now I totally get not wanting to use a knife for a task it wasn't meant for, or pushing it past it's design, or having monetary/sentimental value, etc. I just wonder how many folks buy an expensive knife just as sort of a ticket to the dance type deal but then mostly use cheap junk?

Again, not passing judgement as Lord knows I spend way more money on knives than my uses dictate a need for, just pondering aloud I reckon.

Thanks for the replies.

[awa54]

My GF is a landscaper, she has the perfect job to need a "beater"; her knife will cut in to dirt at least half of the time it's used, this is rough on the finish and wears the edge quickly, the knife will also get wet and stay gritty most work days.

I'm currently re-evaluating the ideal knife for her use, the one she carries currently has a lock that can plug up with dirt and a fairly soft blade steel that dulls very quickly in this use... the replacement should have better edge retention, a lock that sheds or rejects dirt and also has to be lefty friendly. All of which is likely to push the cost up past what most people would consider the "beater" range.

[Evil D]

My GF is a landscaper, she has the perfect job to need a "beater"; her knife will cut in to dirt at least half of the time it's used, this is rough on the finish and wears the edge quickly, the knife will also get wet and stay gritty most work days.

I'm currently re-evaluating the ideal knife for her use, the one she carries currently has a lock that can plug up with dirt and a fairly soft blade steel that dulls very quickly in this use... the replacement should have better edge retention, a lock that sheds or rejects dirt and also has to be lefty friendly. All of which is likely to push the cost up past what most people would consider the "beater" range.

If ever there was a case for a fixed blade, I'd say it's when the job includes clogging up a folder lock and preventing it from locking. She needs an Enuff Salt or some other small fixed blade with super tough steel. I'd imagine she hits rocks with her edge a lot so toughness is important unless you want to hone out chips all the time.

[chuck_roxas45]

A buddy of mine asks "can I borrow your knife?". I wouldn't lend him my knife. I used to carry a knife I didn't value for lending.

[Eli Chaps]

My GF is a landscaper, she has the perfect job to need a "beater"; her knife will cut in to dirt at least half of the time it's used, this is rough on the finish and wears the edge quickly, the knife will also get wet and stay gritty most work days.

I'm currently re-evaluating the ideal knife for her use, the one she carries currently has a lock that can plug up with dirt and a fairly soft blade steel that dulls very quickly in this use... the replacement should have better edge retention, a lock that sheds or rejects dirt and also has to be lefty friendly. All of which is likely to push the cost up past what most people would consider the "beater" range.

If ever there was a case for a fixed blade, I'd say it's when the job includes clogging up a folder lock and preventing it from locking. She needs an Enuff Salt or some other small fixed blade with super tough steel. I'd imagine she hits rocks with her edge a lot so toughness is important unless you want to hone out chips all the time.

Agreed. I just asked this same question on the thread started on this subject.

Is a fixed blade out of the question?

[awa54]

My GF is a landscaper, she has the perfect job to need a "beater"; her knife will cut in to dirt at least half of the time it's used, this is rough on the finish and wears the edge quickly, the knife will also get wet and stay gritty most work days.

I'm currently re-evaluating the ideal knife for her use, the one she carries currently has a lock that can plug up with dirt and a fairly soft blade steel that dulls very quickly in this use... the replacement should have better edge retention, a lock that sheds or rejects dirt and also has to be lefty friendly. All of which is likely to push the cost up past what most people would consider the "beater" range.

If ever there was a case for a fixed blade, I'd say it's when the job includes clogging up a folder lock and preventing it from locking. She needs an Enuff Salt or some other small fixed blade with super tough steel. I'd imagine she hits rocks with her edge a lot so toughness is important unless you want to hone out chips all the time.

Hmm, that would definitely be a good call, but I'm not sure I could talk her in to carrying a fixed blade... a Mora Companion or Bushcraft maybe? cheap, easy to sharpen and comes in orange...

[Evil D]

My GF is a landscaper, she has the perfect job to need a "beater"; her knife will cut in to dirt at least half of the time it's used, this is rough on the finish and wears the edge quickly, the knife will also get wet and stay gritty most work days.

I'm currently re-evaluating the ideal knife for her use, the one she carries currently has a lock that can plug up with dirt and a fairly soft blade steel that dulls very quickly in this use... the replacement should have better edge retention, a lock that sheds or rejects dirt and also has to be lefty friendly. All of which is likely to push the cost up past what most people would consider the "beater" range.

If ever there was a case for a fixed blade, I'd say it's when the job includes clogging up a folder lock and preventing it from locking. She needs an Enuff Salt or some other small fixed blade with super tough steel. I'd imagine she hits rocks with her edge a lot so toughness is important unless you want to hone out chips all the time.

Hmm, that would definitely be a good call, but I'm not sure I could talk her in to carrying a fixed blade... a Mora Companion or Bushcraft maybe? cheap, easy to sharpen and comes in orange...

Kabar Escabar. You can get the knife and a belt clip kit for pretty cheap. It also comes with an orange handle scale option.

[Doc Dan]

Yeah, the Kabar Escabar is a good one. So is the Esee Izula, which can be had in stainless or 1095. An Aqua Salt serrated would be a good knife for her, and for anyone needing a knife to cut into stuff that might include dirt, fertilizer, and tree roots.

For a folding knife, I think I would choose a serrated edge Pacific Salt. The New Manix 2 back lock is a really great, very tough seeming folder that can be used with either hand. Also, the Spydiechef might make a good, but expensive, choice.

[bearfacedkiller]

As a Mora fan I will just say that sometimes the closest tool you have is a knife and that is when a knife gets used for non knife tasks. Sure you could go get another tool but sometimes you just gotta do some scraping or prying and that is when you are glad you have you $15 Mora with you. I sure aint gonna scrape gaskets off of an engine with my Fluted Ti Military.

I am also not gonna leave a $200 knife in my tool bag or under the seat of my truck. Again, that is a job for a Mora.

The Escabar/BK14 is an awesome beater. I have one that has been pounded on and sharpened to death. It is a lot like an Enuff except it was $38 so I can abuse it without fear.

David, I wouldn't call the Mora Bushcraft cheap. Just get a Companion or one of the Pro series.

[TomAiello]

If I had to cut up some roofing shingles... that contain stones, I wouldn't want to use a knife that I value and get it all scratched up.

I have actually cut roofing shingles with both my s110v Manix 2 LW and my K390 urban in the past two weeks. My daughter needed them cut into specific dimensions for a science fair project and I just used what I was carrying.

[bearfacedkiller]

I also have beater kitchen knives because most people don't treat quality cutlery well and I don't want my knife tossed in the sink.

Ferris makes a good analogy to work clothes. Just like I wouldn't buy a $200 pair of pants to work on my car or paint my house I also wouldn't use a $200 dollar knife to do those things either. Don't confuse affordable with cheap and don't confuse beater with junk. A Mora will have you re-evaluating the need to spend $200 on a knife. They are basic but very functional and tough as nails.

Does a $200 dollar knife outperform a $20 knife? Of course. Does it outperform it 10 times over. Not a chance. There are actually lots of high value knives out there that make good beaters/users, not just Moras. Victorinox and Dexter Russel are two companies who also make affordable products that I enjoy. We buy premium knives because we want to, not because we need to.

[wrdwrght]

If you had a PE Pacific Salt (with its thick spine almost to the very tip), you'd know why I beat on it as a weeding tool.

It can't hold a edge worth squat, but repeated stabs into soil don't faze it one bit. Rustless and extremely tough, its working edge can be recovered with just few swipes on almost any abrasive surface.

I cringe at the thought of doing to my other Spydies what I do to my PE Pacific Salt. Had I known about the pronounced shortcoming of PE H1 (as opposed to SE H1) for edge-holding, I would not have bought it, but since I have it, I'm getting no small amount of essential work out of it in the garden. One might even argue that the PE Pacific Salt's peekaboo edge is actually a feature...

[ZMW]

Kabar Escabar. You can get the knife and a belt clip kit for pretty cheap. It also comes with an orange handle scale option.[/quote]

I am not a fan, the handles are so **** short you can barely get a 3 finger hold on it

[awa54]

As a Mora fan I will just say that sometimes the closest tool you have is a knife and that is when a knife gets used for non knife tasks. Sure you could go get another tool but sometimes you just gotta do some scraping or prying and that is when you are glad you have you $15 Mora with you. I sure aint gonna scrape gaskets off of an engine with my Fluted Ti Military.

I am also not gonna leave a $200 knife in my tool bag or under the seat of my truck. Again, that is a job for a Mora.

The Escabar/BK14 is an awesome beater. I have one that has been pounded on and sharpened to death. It is a lot like an Enuff except it was $38 so I can abuse it without fear.

David, I wouldn't call the Mora Bushcraft cheap. Just get a Companion or one of the Pro series.

Ragweed forge has the orange ones for $25 right now :D