LCR 357 or 38+P

[MadMaximus]

Interested in these compact revolvers. Just wondering if anyone out there has used either of them and which they would recommend. If you go with the 38, would you recommend the hammerless version or the LCR-X?

[SpyderNut]

I'll be honest, I don't own either of these models but I do know them fairly well. FWIW, my brother has a SS Ruger .357 snubby (SP101, IIRC) and--truth be told--that little bugger bites hard in the hand with full magnum loads (and that is with a full-lugged barrel and regular frame). Fortunately, the discomfort is alleviated slightly when using standard .38 rounds. I've had a few friends shoot the LCR and they said it wasn't too bad (but they were only shooting standard, non--+P rounds). If you intend to carry concealed in your pocket, the hammerless model will certainly have some benefits.

[OldSarSwmr]

I have shot both and carry the LCR with .38 +P rounds. I chose the .38 partially because of my comfort level with that round and familiarity. I carried a .38 S&W hammerless for years as my back up gun. I switched to the Ruger for various reasons, trigger, cylinder release and comfort.
To your question about .38 or .357, I like the .38 for the fact that, for me, it is more enjoyable to shoot. I can practice more when I don't have to deal with a sore hand.
Granted, this is more of an "up close and personal" weapon and under stress you probably won't feel the thump but I believe in proficiency with my firearms so comfort plays a factor. There are ballistic differences for sure but well placed .38 +P rounds have proved to be very effective. ****, I don't want to be shot with any of them.
Hammerless is a must for me because of the way I carry and do not want any snags.
Good luck with your purchase, its a great little revolver.


Dan

[remnar]

I have not fired a .357 version, but do own the .38 +p version for many of the same reasons as OldSarSwmr. I bought this to have something smaller and lighter than my Glock 23 for concealed carry. It has worked well for me and I can even carry it in my front pocket with some pants. I would not purchase one with an exposed hammer for CC because I would worry about it snagging.

[MichaelScott]

Hammerless, .38 Special. You really don't need +P. You want to make sure you can hit your intended target while under extreme stress, not an innocent person. Anyone can shoot a .38 Special load more accurately and it will do the job.

[bearfacedkiller]

I really depends on what you want it for. You didn't give a lot of info so i'll give a few scenarios. I have shot them both but own neither. I want a hammered 357 with a 3 inch barrel for backpacking. :)

If it is for front pocket carry then the hammerless .38 should get the nod but there are plenty of people who pocket carry an Sp101 so it is a personal choice. I front pocket carry an lcp and it is great. Sometimes I front pocket carry a pf9 but it can be too big for some pants so an LCR would also be a little big for me in the front pocket.

If it is gonna be carried holstered then either hammerless version should work well but I would lean towards the .357. The .357 version is heavier which is why I would not recommend it for pocket carry but would for holster carry. You can shoot .38 in either model and as already mentioned .38s are more than adequate for personal protection and are much more controllable out of the heavier .357 frame. For self defense I would prefer the .357 model loaded with .38 +p myself.

For a truck/woods/backpacking gun I would go with the .357. I spend a bit of time in the woods and carry either my pf9, SP101 or GP100 and would love a 3" 357 LCR for backpacking. I think it is coming sooner or later. :D

[The Mastiff]

Shooting magnum loads in the super light weight 38 & .357 Ti & scandium short barrels is downright punishing. The recoil is one thing , but the flash and super loud report can induce flinchitis in even long time shooters. Letting one or two off in a small room like the average bedroom, or worse yet car can really damage your hearing. It can actually be painful to the ears.

Many people think "it's only a .357" until they shoot it. It's bad enough with good hearing protection but without is not fun. This is coming from a guy that used to shoot several hundred rounds per week in the days before ammo shortages and crazy prices. Back when .22lr was about 50 cents a box of 50 and surplus .308 was $30 per 200 round battle packs before sale prices. 9mm was maybe $6 for 50 rounds of FMJ.

Joe

[Doc Dan]

If you buy the 357 you can shoot .38's in it. That way, you have the option of more power if you decide you need it. On the other hand, the .38 model is a tad lighter in weight. Another option that might be better (I had a S&W) is that LCR in 9mm. The power can be lower or higher, as you wish, and more effective than the .38 Special. It is a little heavier than the .38, though. If weight is a concern, the .38 wins. But if 4 oz. means little, the other two are better.
I would go for the hammerless model and call Ken at KC Leather in Alabama and get a good pocket holster for it. I carried a small S&W like this for years and a .380, too.

[Ankerson]

Shooting magnum loads in the super light weight 38 & .357 Ti & scandium short barrels is downright punishing. The recoil is one thing , but the flash and super loud report can induce flinchitis in even long time shooters. Letting one or two off in a small room like the average bedroom, or worse yet car can really damage your hearing. It can actually be painful to the ears.

Many people think "it's only a .357" until they shoot it. It's bad enough with good hearing protection but without is not fun. This is coming from a guy that used to shoot several hundred rounds per week in the days before ammo shortages and crazy prices. Back when .22lr was about 50 cents a box of 50 and surplus .308 was $30 per 200 round battle packs before sale prices. 9mm was maybe $6 for 50 rounds of FMJ.

Joe

As Joe was saying. :)

I used to be a huge gun guy in my younger days and can say shooting full power .357's in a super light gun will be punishing to say the least and one had better have very strong wrists and a high tolerance to pain.

Standard .38 Specials with hollow points like 110 gr will work fine or get some Glazers or Mag-Safe ammo in .38 Special if they are still available.

And this is coming from a guy who owned a lot of high power handguns and shot weekly, 500 rounds or more a week, still have my reloading gear, no guns though anymore.

[MichaelScott]

Interested in these compact revolvers. Just wondering if anyone out there has used either of them and which they would recommend. If you go with the 38, would you recommend the hammerless version or the LCR-X?

Going back to the original post, I'd say we need more information to effectively respond to the question.

It basically comes down to your intended use. Are you just interested and want to shoot at targets now and then? Are you considering a weapon you will mainly keep at home or in your vehicle? Do you intend to conceal carry and rely on it for a self-defense gun?

The answers really depend on that.

In +P or magnum, any pistol will be harder to shoot accurately, have more recoil, noise and flash. In .38 Special it is easier to shoot with less of those effects. If you research actual law enforcement gunfight analyses, you will find that caliber and power really makes little or no difference. There are just too many factors involved. There are documented cases of .22 caliber shots that stopped the threat, and instances of bad guys being shot multiple times over minutes with large caliber and high power handgun and rifle rounds who just kept going.

Another thing to consider. Those same statistics show that even well trained and experienced law enforcement personnel, when forced to shoot with a handgun in a stressful, life-and-death situation missed their targets, even at very close ranges, more often than they hit them.

Remember, legally (not to mention ethically) you are responsible for every bullet that you shoot. Better be good enough with whichever gun you choose to hit what you need to hit, and nothing else.

[MadMaximus]

[quote="bearfacedkiller"]I really depends on what you want it for. You didn't give a lot of info so i'll give a few scenarios. I have shot them both but own neither. I want a hammered 357 with a 3 inch barrel for backpacking. :)

I'd also like one of those for backpacking. The main intent for this one is to CCW and/or sit in the truck. I figured hammerless would be better for that, but I'm a big fan of shooting single action. With that being said, I've heard great things about the trigger on the hammerless LCR.

[Pinetreebbs]

We have a hammer-less .38+ LCR, it's light, has a great double action trigger and is easy to carry. It is a pretty good handful with full power 158 grain loads and much better with Hornady 110 gr FTX rounds. I have a buddy that owns a .357 LCR, it is a handful shooting .357 rounds. I would save my money and go with the .38+ Special. Just to be clear, I'd much rather be shooting defense loads from my .44 Special Bulldog than .357 rounds in the .357 LCR. A magnum round that hits near the target is less effective than a BB that hits the target.

[Officer Gigglez]

I went with a .38+P model because that is the only model they make with an external hammer. I've had it since early December last year and have about 1,000 rounds through it so far. It is still as tight as it was the day I opened the box. I always have it on me 24/7, either in an ankle rig or IWB, and it rests on my ankle as I type this. I trust it with my life. With that being said, I have not nor do I expect to, shoot +P loads in it. I have no doubt it'll handle it, but I don't think it is necessary to carry +P loads in it, as the blast and recoil are unnerving. Good quality standard pressure .38 JHPs are plenty. I carry Hornady XTP .38s 158gr JHPs in mine, after testing the cartridge extensively, in chronos, ballisitics gel, and accuracy. All of which are superb, especially for a 2 inch barrel. There is a video on YT that showcases the round's FPS and wound track in gel. It is an impressive round, especially at its price point. It is my go to load for all of my .38s, and I feel absolutely comfortable carrying it, even in the shadiest spots in St. Louis Metro. Anyway, my point is that there is no need to break your hand, blind yourself, and make yourself deaf firing .357 or .38+P out of a snub to have an effective load. And as always, shot placement is key. ****, if you have that down, carry an LCR 22.
Really when it comes down to it, get what you are comfortable with and get consistent hits on target with.

[RanCoWeAla]

My suggestion would be to get a Glock 26 . However if you insist on a snubbie try to find something that duplicates the old FBI load that was used in the S&W model 13 . This load was a 158 gr lead semi wadcutter hollow point that would duplicate the 45 hardball. You might try Cor Bon Ammunition to see if they have anything or load it yourself. This is the very best 38 load ever made. I owned several snub nose in 38/357 and could never hit the broad side of a barn with any of them. However the first time I shot my Glock 26 that I still have I found I could hit quarter sized items at seven yards and five gallon buckets out to 75 and 100 yards from a steady point pistol rest

[Ankerson]

My suggestion would be to get a Glock 26 . However if you insist on a snubbie try to find something that duplicates the old FBI load that was used in the S&W model 13 . This load was a 158 gr lead semi wadcutter hollow point that would duplicate the 45 hardball. You might try Cor Bon Ammunition to see if they have anything or load it yourself. This is the very best 38 load ever made. I owned several snub nose in 38/357 and could never hit the broad side of a barn with any of them. However the first time I shot my Glock 26 that I still have I found I could hit quarter sized items at seven yards and five gallon buckets out to 75 and 100 yards from a steady point pistol rest

Used to own a 2.5" Mod 19 S&W years ago and it was brutal with full power .357's, even the 125gr SJHP Rem factory load.

Same load in my 4" Colt Python was nothing, very accurate for me out to around 125 yards off hand, I shot that gun a lot so I was good with it.

Personally I still liked the .45 ACP over anything in one of my 1911's I had, 185gr JHP or 230 gr Hydra Shocks. I was extremely fast and accurate with them.

Walther PPK/s in .380 ACP for backup in ankle holster loaded with Glazers (1st 2 rounds) backed by Hydra Shocks.

But yeah a .38 Special with good hand loads with a 158gr lead hollow point is hard to beat for a snubby if one wanted to carry a wheel gun.

[RanCoWeAla]

I had the same gun in Stainless a model 66 I think and it was so punishing on you and the gun both that the rear sight would have to be tightened all along. The only revolver I ever like was the old model 10 heavy barrel model with fixed sights cut into the barrel and frame. I still have one of those in three inch heavy barrel fixed sights recessed crown and transfer bar hammer in stainless model 64-3. I made the recommendation of 158 gr all lead semi wadcutter hollow point +p based solely on my experience with the snubnose. Because as I stated above I could never hit the broad side of a barn with one and my groups looked like a load of Buckshot. And for me anyway I place them in the same class as my North American Arms .22 Magnum Mini Revolver an arms length last ditch contact backup. In a situation like that where someone already has his hands on you and has your primary weapon or has already stuck a knife in you what you want is all the power and muzzle blast possible to blow him off of you.

[Ankerson]

I had the same gun in Stainless a model 66 I think and it was so punishing on you and the gun both that the rear sight would have to be tightened all along. The only revolver I ever like was the old model 10 heavy barrel model with fixed sights cut into the barrel and frame. I still have one of those in three inch heavy barrel fixed sights recessed crown and transfer bar hammer in stainless model 64-3. I made the recommendation of 158 gr all lead semi wadcutter hollow point +p based solely on my experience with the snubnose. Because as I stated above I could never hit the broad side of a barn with one and my groups looked like a load of Buckshot. And for me anyway I place them in the same class as my North American Arms .22 Magnum Mini Revolver an arms length last ditch contact backup. In a situation like that where someone already has his hands on you and has your primary weapon or has already stuck a knife in you what you want is all the power and muzzle blast possible to blow him off of you.

Yeah, it was pretty bad. :D

I was used to shooting .41 and .44 Magnums and .454's and 470's. :eek:

That Model 19 was just horrible with full power loads, it would twist and bite the **** out of you.

.38's where much better in that gun.

The Model 10's were nice like the old Ruger Security Six's and the Colt Trooper MK3.

[RanCoWeAla]

I would still go with a Glock 26 however both the Glock and snubbies have their advantages and disadvantages. For example, the snub nose doesn't have a full length ejector rod so you either have to pull the empties out with you fingers or turn the gun upside down and dump them and hope one doesn't swell and get stuck in the cylinder. That why my favorite revolver barrel length is 3 inches because that's as short as you can go and still have a full length ejector rod. On the positive side for the snub though in an attempted take away if someone grabs the slide on the Glock it will jam and fire one time where as the revolver will re-time and fire when you pull the trigger again. This actually makes the revolver more reliable and more dangerous but with the Glock you have twice the firepower, less than half the recoil and several times the accuracy potential. I hope some of this helps .

[Ankerson]

I would still go with a Glock 26 however both the Glock and snubbies have their advantages and disadvantages. For example, the snub nose doesn't have a full length ejector rod so you either have to pull the empties out with you fingers or turn the gun upside down and dump them and hope one doesn't swell and get stuck in the cylinder. That why my favorite revolver barrel length is 3 inches because that's as short as you can go and still have a full length ejector rod. On the positive side for the snub though in an attempted take away if someone grabs the slide on the Glock it will jam and fire one time where as the revolver will re-time and fire when you pull the trigger again. This actually makes the revolver more reliable and more dangerous but with the Glock you have twice the firepower, less than half the recoil and several times the accuracy potential. I hope some of this helps .

Never was really a Glock Fan, always preferred the 1911's and Browning HP personally.

They are neat though.

[RanCoWeAla]

I thought about this discussion after I went to bed last night. I think we discussed everything but spare ammo transport. If a reload becomes necessary speed loaders don't exactly line themselves up and dump the rounds and are awful to carry and loading individual rounds is entirely too slow. I really like my setup with the Glock 26 to carry and the bigger heavier Smith 64-3 in the house loaded with the 158 gr +p and snake loads available