Nano Oil impressions.

[w3tnz]

My nano oil came in today, used it on some titanium threads and some folders - made them super smooth, a few drops goes a long way.


I then ran a tap through some aluminium to see how it felt. Did some holes dry just for a comparison, don't do that it sucks.
The competitor is some industrial grade tool cutting oil I use at work. It does the job but it leaves a bit of a mess and smells like oil, Nano oil had little to no odour which was a nice surprise, most things that lubricate well smell disgusting in my experience.

I will say right off the bat that the nano oil (10W) is slightly thinner than the cutting oil. I cleaned the tap to avoid cross contamination.

When comparing the two the nano oil had a slight but noticeable advantage cutting the thread, but it really made a difference bringing the tap back through the hole. The nano oiled threads just flew out with barely any resistance, the cutting oiled threads got gummed up a few times.

I then ran a screw through the tapped holes, once again the nano oiled thread gave no resistance it was very clean, the other oiled thread was not so clean and there was some trapped swarf which had to be pushed out.

Pretty impressed with it, does everything it says on the bottle.

[razorsharp]

Love the stuff, I use it on all my pivots with tuffglide on the blades

[Clip]

w3ntz, my tube came in Saturday. So far I've used it on a few knives with good results, but haven't tried it in the shop. I'm happy with its use as a pivot oil right now, but I'd like to see how long I can go without reapplying it.

[ASmitty]

Does Nano-Oil adhere to the metal and washers when you use it. My current lubricant provides very good lubrication and also seems to adhere to the parts so that I don't have oil getting all over my hands for the first day after I use it.

[Clip]

Smitty, with the little bit I've used coupled with how thin it is, I haven't had any problems getting oily after application. It's slightly thinner than 3in1 oil, capillary action pulls it right in to the workings. I've also only needed a small drop on either side of the mechanism and I'm good to go after I work it in.

[w3tnz]

w3ntz, my tube came in Saturday. So far I've used it on a few knives with good results, but haven't tried it in the shop. I'm happy with its use as a pivot oil right now, but I'd like to see how long I can go without reapplying it.

Yeah im also interested in the longevity, the particles are suposedly magnetized so it should stick to the blade and any steel locking parts.

I can see it being cost prohibitive in an industrial setting but I will be certainly using it on personal projects. Id like to get some titanium to machine, the anti galling properties are very effective.

[Clip]

Found this and posted it a few threads ago: http://www.google.com/patents/WO2012166 ... CDcQ6AEwAA

I guess the nanoparticles polish and embed themselves in the metal surface, helping the action to stay smoother longer.

[dialex]

Thanks for the infos. Very interesting and instructive.

[jackknifeh]

Another great Nano-oil feature is the 5 weight on rusted bolts/nuts. I have used WD-40 all my life and it works most of the time. I have had to wait for it to soak overnight sometimes. I had to remove some rusted bolts a few months ago. I laid the wrench on the ground. I applied 5w Nano oil to the bolt/nut, set the oil down, picked up the wrench, put it on the nut and applied pressure. After about 1 second the bolt broke and I removed it. I can't say exactly how rusted that bolt was but I never have had one break free that fast ever. The purpose of the 5w is to get into very tight places because it's so thin. It's about like water. I actually watched it absorm down into the rust between the bolt and nut.

[Nano-Oil]

My nano oil came in today, used it on some titanium threads and some folders - made them super smooth, a few drops goes a long way.


I then ran a tap through some aluminium to see how it felt. Did some holes dry just for a comparison, don't do that it sucks.
The competitor is some industrial grade tool cutting oil I use at work. It does the job but it leaves a bit of a mess and smells like oil, Nano oil had little to no odour which was a nice surprise, most things that lubricate well smell disgusting in my experience.

I will say right off the bat that the nano oil (10W) is slightly thinner than the cutting oil. I cleaned the tap to avoid cross contamination.

When comparing the two the nano oil had a slight but noticeable advantage cutting the thread, but it really made a difference bringing the tap back through the hole. The nano oiled threads just flew out with barely any resistance, the cutting oiled threads got gummed up a few times.

I then ran a screw through the tapped holes, once again the nano oiled thread gave no resistance it was very clean, the other oiled thread was not so clean and there was some trapped swarf which had to be pushed out.

Pretty impressed with it, does everything it says on the bottle.

Wow w3tnz, I am impressed,

As far as tapping threads, depending on the application, I like to not tap with the full length of the tap,
I stop a little before the full taper passes through,
this way (again depending on situation and goals) I end up with a very tight thread mating, equivalent of aviation cinch (no nylon)

This is how I addressed the problems that E-Glide (fastest electric skateboards on the World) was having in 2007,
They were using Nylon cinch nuts which historically were unscrewing themselves from the axle little by little and then very fast in a catastrophic manner,
So using nuts with a metric equivalent with a so close and yet so far thread pitch,
I tapped through the nuts but not fully,
using Nano-Oil allowed to engage the conflicting threads with a firm torque and the nuts stayed exactly where you left them,
Aviation cinch works by indenting the nuts on at least 3 sides of the Hex therefore deforming the ID of the threads to a degree.
needless to say that nylon cinch should never have existed.

[jackknifeh]

Wow w3tnz, I am impressed,

As far as tapping threads, depending on the application, I like to not tap with the full length of the tap,
I stop a little before the full taper passes through,
this way (again depending on situation and goals) I end up with a very tight thread mating, equivalent of aviation cinch (no nylon)

This is how I addressed the problems that E-Glide (fastest electric skateboards on the World) was having in 2007,
They were using Nylon cinch nuts which historically were unscrewing themselves from the axle little by little and then very fast in a catastrophic manner,
So using nuts with a metric equivalent with a so close and yet so far thread pitch,
I tapped through the nuts but not fully,
using Nano-Oil allowed to engage the conflicting threads with a firm torque and the nuts stayed exactly where you left them,
Aviation cinch works by indenting the nuts on at least 3 sides of the Hex therefore deforming the ID of the threads to a degree.
needless to say that nylon cinch should never have existed.

Just taking a minute to repeat how happy I am with Nano-oil. I have 4-5 oils in my house. Nano-oil, Quick Release, Tuf-Glide (if you can call that a lubericant) and some wax based lube that I haven't used enough to form an opinion. Oh yeah, 3-in-one also. As good or specialized as some products are these days the old tried and true stuff Dad always had two cans of (3-in-one and WD-40) still hold their own in most situations. :) Anyway, we have a dog runner and use U-bolts to stop the leash pully at each end. I have had to take it down, replace it, or whatever 4 or 5 times in the past 15 years or so. The U-bolts ALWAYS were a problem requiring overnight soaking after using WD-40 or anything else I've tried before the nuts broke free but they always do. This is using just a pair of vise grips and adj. wrench. I needed to replace it a while back and using Nano-oil 5w I did this. I dripped a couple drops of the 5w on the threads where the bolt came throught the nut, put the oil down, picked up the wrench, applied it to the bolt part and applied pressure. The nut broke free by using a moderate amount of force on the first try. They had been in place between 1 and 2 years. I'd say the time between when I applied the oil and the nut was spinning was about 10 seconds or so. I had tried to break them free with just pliers first with no success.

Also, I have used Nano-oil on my knives of course. But for curiosity sake I also have used the QR. The QR is very good. Better and cleaner than 3-in-one. The best thing is it's cleaner. Still, I can always tighten the pivot screw tighter whenever I use nano-oil than any of the others. This would only really be important on a knife that is hard to get the pivot screw adjusted tight enough to eliminate blade play and still leave the blade smooth and easy to move. It also doesn't seem to be necessary to wash any oil out before applying nano-oil.

So, in my limited experience Nano-oil is the best I've used so far. Others are good enough for some things but the Nano-oil is better on everything especially when others are not good enough. That's on knives and tools and stuff. The 5w for breaking rusted bolts free is like nothing I've ever seen as far as fast acting. Sometimes you don't want to (or can't) wait hours to break a nut free. I would suggest to anyone even if they are using a lube they like try a tube of Nano-oil 5w just for breaking loose rusted nuts and bolts. I think the key is it is VERY thin so it soakes into the corrosion FAST. Using it for knife pivots I don't think is a good idea because most of it runs out because it is so thin. It still works but it seems I always wanted to put another drop or two on the knife a day or so later. If the 10w works better because it is thicker it makes me want to try the thicker oil (85w I think). I haven't though because the 10w does work.

Jack