Removing finger prints from safe queens.
- Buck Knives I Like
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Removing finger prints from safe queens.
I have used just any microfiber cloth to remove finger prints from knives before and they leave scratches. Does anyone have a particular brand of microfiber clothes they would trust to use on their most precious knives? I'm trying to avoid those annoying scratches.
My goal is to remove any finger prints from my safe queens so even a micro scratch is bothersome.
Even the " extremely fine " microfiber clothes leave me disappointed. With expensive safe queens this would be unacceptable.
My goal is to remove any finger prints from my safe queens so even a micro scratch is bothersome.
Even the " extremely fine " microfiber clothes leave me disappointed. With expensive safe queens this would be unacceptable.
- sharpguitarist
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I use the inside of the bottom of my shirt. And I am actually being serious.
But I don't keep safe queens though, so I don't get that picky. I do however
like to keep them clean for the next time that I use them.
Sharpguitarist might have a good idea, I don't know how the treated gun
type rags work though. Someone will have the perfect answer.
But I don't keep safe queens though, so I don't get that picky. I do however
like to keep them clean for the next time that I use them.
Sharpguitarist might have a good idea, I don't know how the treated gun
type rags work though. Someone will have the perfect answer.
- The Deacon
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Or consider wearing gloves when handling something you don't want to get fingerprints on.sharpguitarist wrote:Hey Buck,
You could try something designed for eyeglasses.
Just a thought.
Good luck!
Later,
Don
Paul
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- xceptnl
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What knives are you noticing micro scratches on? In my experience most steels are able to do moderate cutting in stiff medial without their surface being scratched. Maybe something like a Sentry cloth could help as well as Deacon's suggestion of gloves.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
- Buck Knives I Like
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- Buck Knives I Like
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- xceptnl
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I'm pretty sure the only scratches I have ever gotten from just a cloth were in the brass bolsters of an old buck or case.Buck Knives I Like wrote:I did man, still got scratches too! however an above poster is correct. These scratches were on cheap steel, I haven't used them on these nice ones with good steels just yet.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
- Buck Knives I Like
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I have had scratches on both 8cr and BD1 steel from a professional " glasses " microfiber cloth.xceptnl wrote:I'm pretty sure the only scratches I have ever gotten from just a cloth were in the brass bolsters of an old buck or case.
However the steels im going to be using it on are steels like d2 cpm, CTS-204P or s35v so there should be no issues as you or someone else said.
- xceptnl
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I take that back. The 420J2 slabs on my Caly Jr and Caly 3 CF both got scratches but I want to say the cloth I used was a dish cloth after some kitchen use. Either way, a little Flitz and you can't even see them any more. Flitz can be the miracle cure for lots of minor blemishes. I buy it in bulk! Currently I am trying it out on Super Blue. I am trying to see if a weekly coating (polishing) in Flitz will prevent the steel from turning (developing a patina).xceptnl wrote:I'm pretty sure the only scratches I have ever gotten from just a cloth were in the brass bolsters of an old buck or case.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
- Buck Knives I Like
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xceptnl wrote:I take that back. The 420J2 slabs on my Caly Jr and Caly 3 CF both got scratches but I want to say the cloth I used was a dish cloth after some kitchen use. Either way, a little Flitz and you can't even see them any more. Flitz can be the miracle cure for lots of minor blemishes. I buy it in bulk! Currently I am trying it out on Super Blue. I am trying to see if a weekly coating (polishing) in Flitz will prevent the steel from turning (developing a patina).
Thanks for the flitz recommendation man, I'll check it out too.
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- Buck Knives I Like
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- xceptnl
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It could be hours for non stainless steels. Stainless steels on the other hand should resist for considerably longer. Obviously environmental factors can change that; humidity, temperature, sunlight, etc.
I have an older ATS-34 Kershaw that has a stain on the blade that I have never been able to polish out. I am pretty sure the stain was from the oils in my hands.
I have an older ATS-34 Kershaw that has a stain on the blade that I have never been able to polish out. I am pretty sure the stain was from the oils in my hands.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
- Buck Knives I Like
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Would d2-CPM be hours you would think? Regardless, thanks for all the info guys I appreciate it.xceptnl wrote:It could be hours for non stainless steels. Stainless steels on the other hand should resist for considerably longer. Obviously environmental factors can change that; humidity, temperature, sunlight, etc.
I have an older ATS-34 Kershaw that has a stain on the blade that I have never been able to polish out. I am pretty sure the stain was from the oils in my hands.
- xceptnl
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My D2 blades have been very stain resistant. I have used them in the kitchen and in the woods with minimal cleaning and no oil coating on the blades. If CPM-D2 is the steel you are questionsing, I wouldn't worry about any staining unless you are in a super moist or salty environment.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
- Buck Knives I Like
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Thanks man! You have at least lowered my blood pressure until i can get over and wipe down my beauty, haha.xceptnl wrote:My D2 blades have been very stain resistant. I have used them in the kitchen and in the woods with minimal cleaning and no oil coating on the blades. If CPM-D2 is the steel you are questionsing, I wouldn't worry about any staining unless you are in a super moist or salty environment.