Edge Pro Blank Adhesive

senorsquare · #1

What's the best adhesive to use for mounting stones to Edge pro blanks?

Clip · #2

Two of my Choseras (the 5000 and 10000) just came unglued. Looks like they used silicone or something similar. I cleaned up the blanks with a razor and acetone, and tried to gently scrape most of the adhesive off of the stones, then wet both pieces and put a thin layer of Gorilla Glue on each and clamped them back to back with paper in between. I think parchment paper would've worked better to keep bits of paper towel from sticking to the stones, but after they set I used a razor to clean off the glue from the sides anyway. Afterward I releveled the stones and they seem to be working alright.

jackknifeh · #3

I have used general purpose adhesive from Wal Mart. Ben Dale uses 3M77 aerosol adhesive but I think he does many stones at once. Since I always have some general purpose glue I tried it and haven't had any fall apart. One of my stones from EP fell off once and I contacted Ben. That's when he told me what he uses. I didn't want to get the 3M because I didn't need it for anything else. With the glue I use the stone/blank separated easy in very hot water. Just put the stones in a pot of water and heat on the stove. It doesn't have to really boil but it needs to be hotter than the hot water from the tap. I guess the two important things is the glue needs to be water proof since I use water with the EP and the glue should release in hot water. When a stone wears out (gets real thin) you can buy just the stone without a blank and glue it to the old blank. Also, there are lots of stones you can buy at the correct size that don't come mounted on a blank so knowing what glue works for you can be important.

senorsquare · #4

jackknifeh wrote:I have used general purpose adhesive from Wal Mart. Ben Dale uses 3M77 aerosol adhesive but I think he does many stones at once. Since I always have some general purpose glue I tried it and haven't had any fall apart. One of my stones from EP fell off once and I contacted Ben. That's when he told me what he uses. I didn't want to get the 3M because I didn't need it for anything else. With the glue I use the stone/blank separated easy in very hot water. Just put the stones in a pot of water and heat on the stove. It doesn't have to really boil but it needs to be hotter than the hot water from the tap. I guess the two important things is the glue needs to be water proof since I use water with the EP and the glue should release in hot water. When a stone wears out (gets real thin) you can buy just the stone without a blank and glue it to the old blank. Also, there are lots of stones you can buy at the correct size that don't come mounted on a blank so knowing what glue works for you can be important.

Thanks Jack. The reason I asked is because I just ordered some blanks from EP and some Congress Mold Masters to try out and wanted to get a heads up on which glue to use. I really appreciate you sharing your wealth of EP wisdom on here.

On a side note, I also ordered an Atoma 140 to try out for reprofiling. If I understand correctly, these can be used without water or oil. I'm really interested to see how this guy is gonna work out.

Clip · #5

Thanks for that clarification on adhesive Jack

jackknifeh · #6

senorsquare wrote:Thanks Jack. The reason I asked is because I just ordered some blanks from EP and some Congress Mold Masters to try out and wanted to get a heads up on which glue to use. I really appreciate you sharing your wealth of EP wisdom on here.

On a side note, I also ordered an Atoma 140 to try out for reprofiling. If I understand correctly, these can be used without water or oil. I'm really interested to see how this guy is gonna work out.

The blanks at EP can be expensive. I buy aluminium (how I said aluminum as a kid :) ) at Lowe's in 1"x1/8"x36" (or 48") pieces and cut my own. The pieces are around $8 OR $10. You can make 5 blanks out of a 36" piece. I use a Dremel to cut and shape the ends buy you can do it with a hacksaw and file. The aluminum is soft.

I have never used Atoma brand but I think all diamond stones can be used with or without water. DON'T USE OIL. I don't know if it will hurt the stone but it would be very messy and a harder time to clean up. I've used DMT a lot and like water. But if I just do a quick touch up I'll use them dry. A few strokes on a dry F or EF stone and you're done. For reprofiling though I'd always use water because of the amount of steel you will be removing.

That's for knives but for flattening stones I always do that under running water at the sink. I have used DMT coarse or extra course stones and recntly got the cheaper 140 grit diamond stone. I don't expect it to last like the Atoma would but it was about $25 I think.

Freman · #7

In my admittedly limited experience sharpening, I've never found any need for oil on stones. Water with a little detergent works fine, and can even clean the stones while you cut.