Wicked Edge vs Edge Pro

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razorsharp
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#61

Post by razorsharp »

I bet you could convex on both if youcut a strip of mousepad and sandpaper and taped the 'stone' to one of the stock stones
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Popsickle
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#62

Post by Popsickle »

rycen wrote:Popsickle

Why did you choose to mount the manix so far up in the clamp?
was just a quick example of what the system can do. didn't go through all the motions. ill try the lower setting next time ;) worked fine on up high
rnbtexas
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#63

Post by rnbtexas »

At this point y'all are getting edges that us average goons can't. It sounds like with enough trial and error both systems work well. Personally I liked the post about the belt sander. Think about all the stuff you can sharpen then there's the front door my wife wants me to refinish....... :eek: and all with the same tool. :D
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Evil D
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#64

Post by Evil D »

rnbtexas wrote:At this point y'all are getting edges that us average goons can't. It sounds like with enough trial and error both systems work well. Personally I liked the post about the belt sander. Think about all the stuff you can sharpen then there's the front door my wife wants me to refinish....... :eek: and all with the same tool. :D
You can get similar results with a Lansky or a Gatco or an Aligner, they all have pros and cons. Some are a lot easier to use than others, some are faster. In the end it's all about what's easiest for you. Neither me or Popsicle are right...it's just one opinion vs. another of what we each think is easier/better.
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Zenith
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#65

Post by Zenith »

Evil D wrote:Saw Murray Carter sharpen on a brick and then strop on cardboard and got his knife from so dull it wouldn't cut him to shaving sharp. Maybe i need to sell my EP and get a brick and some boxes ;)
Is this true? If I remember correctly he got it sharp. Not shaving sharp.

Found the video but he does not shave with it:

[video=youtube;CXLaE1JvQ94]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXLaE1JvQ94&feature=plcp[/video]
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w3tnz
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#66

Post by w3tnz »

Image

Got my wicked edge today, just a little bit exciting. :D

I managed to get my izula, para 2 and 0350 re-bevelled and paper slicing hair shaving sharp, zdp took a crazy edge after the strops :O
In desperate need of ceramic 1200/1600 for a good polish but pretty impressed so far it is incredibly easy to use, I was just sharpening on my lap, you need to put a small piece of foam tape along the top of the jaws and your good to go!
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Sequimite
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#67

Post by Sequimite »

I've been very happy with my wicked edge after using it for several weeks. It doesn't do super narrow Case type blades, doesn't do serrations and needs the curved ceramic stone to do a good job on hawk bills. It does a fantastic job on everything else however.

One other limitation is that it can't go narrower than 15 degrees per side.
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jackknifeh
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#68

Post by jackknifeh »

Sequimite wrote:I've been very happy with my wicked edge after using it for several weeks. It doesn't do super narrow Case type blades, doesn't do serrations and needs the curved ceramic stone to do a good job on hawk bills. It does a fantastic job on everything else however.

One other limitation is that it can't go narrower than 15 degrees per side.
Is there any way to "jerry rig" the WE to get lower than 15° per side? On the EP you can lay a piece of cardboard under the spine lifting it up. By raising the spine you can get angles lower than the EP is set to. The lowest the EP Apex will go is about 9 or 10° per side. You can raise the spine enough so the stone will hit the entire side of the blade if you want.

If you can figure a way or already know of a way to get lower than 15° per side that would be a great thing IMO. Otherwise, I would have to get something else that was available, like the EP. I remember reading several times that the WE only goes as low as 15° per side but it never really hit home til just now. With either the WE or EP the thing that REALLY MATTERS the most is the ability to get any angle you want. That is the cake. Any other pros/cons are just icing.

I believe that going lower than 15° per side is not necessary in most cases but if I'm going to spend the money those sharpeners cost I'd want the most versatility I can get. Not going lower than 15° per side would be a deal breaker for me.

Jack
rycen
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#69

Post by rycen »

wt3nz
What depth position were you using with the ZT?
We would rather be the knife in your pocket, because is "works" better, than the knife in your showcase, because it "looks" better.

sal
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#70

Post by DRH »

jackknifeh wrote:Is there any way to "jerry rig" the WE to get lower than 15° per side?
Jack ... actually, a guy on the WE forum did a modification to his to enable very low angles .... but it was an elaborate mod, if I remember correctly. It appears that you haven't decided or purchased either the EP or WE. You may want to monitor the forum on the WE site. Clay Allison is actively working on an attachment/modification to permit very low angles. He was not happy with his first prototype, so sent a second design his machine shop. Clay and his entire team are really good at answering questions. I'd recommend going straight to the horse's mouth, so to speak.
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jackknifeh
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#71

Post by jackknifeh »

DRH wrote:Jack ... It appears that you haven't decided or purchased either the EP or WE.

Actually I have an EP. I've always figured the WE was just as capable, just had different pros/cons as the EP. I figured whichever you bought and got used to would be your favorite. I'm used to the EP and have no desire to get a WE. If I had gotten the WE first I'd feel the same about not wanting the EP. Now that I realize the WE won't get to the lower angles I probably would start saving for the EP and sell the WE if I had gotten it first. I know that's not really necessary to have perfectly fine knife edges but it's what I would want. I put 12 deg per side back bevels on a lot of knives, then use a 36 deg edge bevel. Those angles make very nice slicers for me. A couple of years ago (I think) people here were playing with low angles down to 20 inclusive along with videos of slicing tires, tennis shoes, etc. I got the feeling nothing was safe in those people's houses. :D They were cutting up anything they could find. :D :D

Jack
w3tnz
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#72

Post by w3tnz »

rycen wrote:wt3nz
What depth position were you using with the ZT?
It was b.5 I think, didin't write it down :o
But you can see the thumb studs are hard up against the vice.
If you were meaning the height, it was the lower position.

I believe they are currently developing an attachment to allow the range to go between 0 deg and 180 deg, I personally don't have a need to go below 30.
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jackknifeh
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#73

Post by jackknifeh »

w3tnz wrote:It was b.5 I think, didin't write it down :o
But you can see the thumb studs are hard up against the vice.
If you were meaning the height, it was the lower position.

I believe they are currently developing an attachment to allow the range to go between 0 deg and 180 deg, I personally don't have a need to go below 30.
Speaking of thumb studs, I have to remove them sometimes to use the EP. Not an EP problem (solely). I have removed them for sharpening with other tools also. I wouldn't let the fact that a knife has thumb studs keep me from buying it if I wanted it but I would REALLY prefer the Spyder hole. So, all else being equal I'd take the Spyderco knife over any other company if the only difference in the knives was thumb stud vs hole.

Jack
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