Wicked Edge vs Edge Pro
Wicked Edge vs Edge Pro
I know this has been brought up time and time again but Im looking into both of these products, which would you pick and why.... take the dollar amount out of the equation please and just go for whichever rig you believe is best(i am by no means rich but am willing to invest more in a product)
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chuck_roxas45
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They are both good systems. It will come down to personal preference. I guess both have different learning curves.
Oh, and I would say this belongs in off-topic.
Oh, and I would say this belongs in off-topic.
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jackknifeh
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I have an Edge Pro and I have no intention of getting any other "system" in my life. I am pretty old though. :) I saw a demo or pictures or advertisement of the Wicked Edge 2 or 3 years ago. It seemed nice but I remember thinking it wasn't doing anything the Edge Pro wouldn't do. What the Edge Pro will do is:
1. Set up to any angle you want between 10 deg. thru 30 deg. per side. You can get lower than 10 with a little trick.
2. Set up to any angle that is already on any knife. This also alows you to determine what the angle is in case someone says to you "Hey, what edge angle is on my knife"? Systems that have "set" angles and won't do this almost require a slight reprofile if the knife edge doesn't match one of the pre-set angles.
3. Ben Dale (inventor of EP) is great with support via email or phone. Check out his instruction videos on http://www.edgeproinc.com. They also come on a DVD with most of his systems.
4. Sharpen any length blade. You can also sharpen serrated edges but he has a different way to do it than a lot of people. His way works but that is your preference.
5. Re-curve blades are no problem. Slight re-curves can be done with the 1" wide stones that come with it. Severe re-curved blades need the 1/2" stones. I have them and they work great.
6. Ben doesn't really like diamond stones even though he sells a couple. I love diamond stones and DMT has told me that they are working on some to fit in the Edge Pro. Their products are top notch IMO. That reminds me, I need to check with them on when they may be available.
I'm going to stop now. I really like the EP and recommend it over anything I've seen so far but my experience is limited to the EP and DMT aligner systems. I used the aligner for 3 years and liked it but it had a few limitations that the EP doesn't. If money is a concern and you want an EP I'd recommend getthing the one with only two stones. It comes with a 220 and 320 grit stone and is all you need for most jobs. You can get the 120, 600 and 1000 grit later if you want. I usually go from 600 to stropping myself. He also has polish tapes of 2000, 3000 and 6000 grit but I am more comfortable with strops. If you have any questions I haven't covered let me know or better yet email Ben at edgepro@gorge.net.
Chuck is right about this being in off-topic since it isn't dealing with a Spyderco product IMO. It may get moved there.
Jack
1. Set up to any angle you want between 10 deg. thru 30 deg. per side. You can get lower than 10 with a little trick.
2. Set up to any angle that is already on any knife. This also alows you to determine what the angle is in case someone says to you "Hey, what edge angle is on my knife"? Systems that have "set" angles and won't do this almost require a slight reprofile if the knife edge doesn't match one of the pre-set angles.
3. Ben Dale (inventor of EP) is great with support via email or phone. Check out his instruction videos on http://www.edgeproinc.com. They also come on a DVD with most of his systems.
4. Sharpen any length blade. You can also sharpen serrated edges but he has a different way to do it than a lot of people. His way works but that is your preference.
5. Re-curve blades are no problem. Slight re-curves can be done with the 1" wide stones that come with it. Severe re-curved blades need the 1/2" stones. I have them and they work great.
6. Ben doesn't really like diamond stones even though he sells a couple. I love diamond stones and DMT has told me that they are working on some to fit in the Edge Pro. Their products are top notch IMO. That reminds me, I need to check with them on when they may be available.
I'm going to stop now. I really like the EP and recommend it over anything I've seen so far but my experience is limited to the EP and DMT aligner systems. I used the aligner for 3 years and liked it but it had a few limitations that the EP doesn't. If money is a concern and you want an EP I'd recommend getthing the one with only two stones. It comes with a 220 and 320 grit stone and is all you need for most jobs. You can get the 120, 600 and 1000 grit later if you want. I usually go from 600 to stropping myself. He also has polish tapes of 2000, 3000 and 6000 grit but I am more comfortable with strops. If you have any questions I haven't covered let me know or better yet email Ben at edgepro@gorge.net.
Chuck is right about this being in off-topic since it isn't dealing with a Spyderco product IMO. It may get moved there.
Jack
I chose the Wicked Edge over the Edge Pro. It's so easy that my 12 year old is planning to start a door to door knife sharpening business this summer. The unit is very sturdy. Edge angle easy to set and to repeat. The unit uses diamond and ceramic stones instead of waterstones (plus, I have 2 sets of "blanks" which I use with lapping tape for absurdly, ridiculously, uselessly polished edges--sometimes). The diamond stones reprofile and sharpen so quickly, it's almost shocking. I find that waterstones require too much maintenance for my tastes. The Wicked Edge does NOT seem adaptable to woodworking tools--plane blades or chisels--Edge Pro looks like it could do these jobs. Wicked Edge is constantly coming out with new types of stones (including waterstones for those who use them) and plans to release a serrated edge set soon.
I've had an Edge Pro, I have a bunch of diamond DMT Stones, had a Lansky system, have a Sharpmaker, and have paper wheels.
I have no opinion on the wicked edge as I've never used it.
The best sharpener for the money is the Sharpmaker, not so good for reprofiling.
The edge pro worked well, but it was a production getting it setup and constantly swapping and flattening stones. Took too much of my time.
I use the paper wheels the most, fastest and easiest sharpening system out there.
I can sharpen a whole block of kitchen knives in about 5 minutes.
Everything is hair whittling sharp when it leaves the paper....
Knowing what I know now. I would have saved myself a lot of money and bought a sharpmaker and the paper wheels.
I have no opinion on the wicked edge as I've never used it.
The best sharpener for the money is the Sharpmaker, not so good for reprofiling.
The edge pro worked well, but it was a production getting it setup and constantly swapping and flattening stones. Took too much of my time.
I use the paper wheels the most, fastest and easiest sharpening system out there.
I can sharpen a whole block of kitchen knives in about 5 minutes.
Everything is hair whittling sharp when it leaves the paper....
Knowing what I know now. I would have saved myself a lot of money and bought a sharpmaker and the paper wheels.
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phillipsted
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I've owned and used quite a few of the major systems out there (e.g., Lansky, Sharpmaker, EdgePro, Wicked Edge). The one I keep turning back to is the Wicked Edge (WEPS). Easy to use, fast, repeatable, and handles a wide variety of stones, strips, and strops.
I also like the EP, and it is a really good system. But like 2cha, I don't like the high maintenance required from waterstones (flattening mostly) - although they have a much finer scratch pattern than similar-grit diamond stones.
I've worked out a progression for several types of knives over the past year or two that involves most of the WEPS diamond stones, a couple of Congress Tools stones mounted on blank WEPS paddles (depending on the task at hand), the WEPS ceramic stones, 3M wet-dry strips mounted on WEPS paddles, and finally, the WEPS leather stops.
TedP
I also like the EP, and it is a really good system. But like 2cha, I don't like the high maintenance required from waterstones (flattening mostly) - although they have a much finer scratch pattern than similar-grit diamond stones.
I've worked out a progression for several types of knives over the past year or two that involves most of the WEPS diamond stones, a couple of Congress Tools stones mounted on blank WEPS paddles (depending on the task at hand), the WEPS ceramic stones, 3M wet-dry strips mounted on WEPS paddles, and finally, the WEPS leather stops.
TedP
Worry less - Breathe more...
Spydie Fanatic #185
Spydie Fanatic #185
I think honestly either system will do the job. I like the edge pro because it still gives some license to use some "artistry". You can do any knife in it, not have to "clamp" your knife into it, etc. I don't have a problem with the WEPS, at all, I think you can probably get a nice edge with it. I just like the "elbow grease" and feel of the edge pro. I don't think one is better than the other, it just depends on your proficiency level and comfort with either system. You have more flexibility with the Edge Pro, but with that comes the opportunity to mess things up and frustrate yourself. Like anything else, you need to practice. I think you can get better results with the Edge Pro, but it is a little more difficult to master.
I am saying this not having ever tried the WEPS, so my above statement is opinion only. I just know that I can get a consistent edge angle on any knife regardless of shape. If it was clamped into place I would have a lower angle on the belly for example than if I can move the knife and make sure that at 90 degrees to the edge I am achieving the same bevel on the whole blade.
I like my edge pro, and it is all I will ever use outside of my sharpmaker for touch ups. I like to tinker, and mess with stuff, so I have no problems with flattening stones, etc. It is like anything else, in order to get good with it, and achieve the results you see in the pictures, you need to practice and work with it a little.
I am saying this not having ever tried the WEPS, so my above statement is opinion only. I just know that I can get a consistent edge angle on any knife regardless of shape. If it was clamped into place I would have a lower angle on the belly for example than if I can move the knife and make sure that at 90 degrees to the edge I am achieving the same bevel on the whole blade.
I like my edge pro, and it is all I will ever use outside of my sharpmaker for touch ups. I like to tinker, and mess with stuff, so I have no problems with flattening stones, etc. It is like anything else, in order to get good with it, and achieve the results you see in the pictures, you need to practice and work with it a little.
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jackknifeh
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In my first post in this thread I forgot about something I call Edge Guide Blocks that I make for my EP. They are small blocks made of wood or similar material that hold small knife blades (< 4" or so) perfectly still which helps me duplicate the angle on a previously sharpened knife PERFECTLY. If you have ever had a problem with the blade pivoting on a part of the spine as you stroke from heel to tip of the blade these solve that problem. By holding the blade still the stone hits the edge exactly the same on every stroke. This really helped be with the harder steels. I'll find and re-post the info if anyone is interested. I even have pictures.
Jack
Jack
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jackknifeh
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Here is something I’ve noticed with my Edge Pro recently (past couple of months). I got a stone blank and glued a DMT 4” diamond stone to it about a year ago so I would have a diamond stone for the EP. If you lay an EP stone on the table next to the stone blank and DMT stone you would see that the DMT stone/blank combo is considerably thicker than the EP stone. So, if I put an edge angle of 20 deg. per side with the EP stone and then want to use the DMT stone the stone would hit the edge high on the bevel (lower angle). I needed to raise the pivot about ½ to 1 degree on the EP to get the stone to hit the bevel exactly the same as the EP stone. Picture in your mind if the DMT stone/blank combo was 1” thick, how high it would raise the stone holding arm on the EP which would be lowering the angle the stone would hit the edge. By raising the pivot on the EP rod with angle markings you would increase the edge angle until the stone is hitting the bevel correctly again. I went through all of that to hopefully get across the different angle a thicker stone in the EP would be putting on the blade edge.
Since over time the EP water stones get thinner through use and flattening your set of stones will be SLIGHTLY different in thickness. I had gotten a new 1000 grit stone about 2 months ago and when I switched from the 600 grit stone to the 1000 grit the stone was hitting the edge a little higher than the 600 and not touching the very edge at all. By raising the pivot on the EP I would then be hitting the edge bevel correctly. Since then I have used the sharpie to mark the edge every time I went from one grit to the next in sequence. So what I did was I took a knife and re-profiled it from 40 deg inclusive to 30 deg inclusive. Keep in mind the EP puts a V shaped edge, not a convex edge on the blade. I used the 120 grit stone and got the edge very sharp with equal width bevels on each side of the knife. Then I marked the bevels and put the 220 grit stone in the EP and stroked the edge with the 220 stone. I was not removing the sharpie from the entire bevel that was created with the 120 stone. By adjusting the pivot just a hair I was then hitting the entire flat bevel that the 120 stone put on the edge. I continued sharpening until I had removed the large scratch pattern made by the 120 stone. Then again I marked the edge and put the 320 stone in the EP and did a couple of “test” strokes. I found I had to put the pivot back exactly where it was when I had the 120 stone in the EP. This meant the 220 stone was a little different in thickness than the 120 and 320 stones. The two problems this will create is if you don’t adjust the pivot with each stone (or at least check the angle with a marker) is not removing the scratch pattern on the entire bevel and also not hitting the edge at all when using a stone that is thicker by just a little than the other ones. The stone not hitting the very edge of a blade is one of the most common problems when we don’t seem to be getting an edge sharper no matter how much time we sharpen a knife.
I’m trying to make this as clear as I can but in case I’ve done a poor job explaining just do this (EP users), use the marker to check how each stone hits the bevel on the edge on every stone you use and see if all your stones are hitting the edge exactly the same as the previous stone you just used. The main benefit of the EP like all sharpening systems is giving the user the ability to put more accurate strokes on the blade edge than when sharpening by hand.
This issue is not isolated to the Edge Pro. Any sharpening system I think needs to be checked to see how each stone is hitting your edge as you progress through the different grits.
I’m interested in how many other people (if any) have noticed this on their EP or WEPS or any system.
Jack
Since over time the EP water stones get thinner through use and flattening your set of stones will be SLIGHTLY different in thickness. I had gotten a new 1000 grit stone about 2 months ago and when I switched from the 600 grit stone to the 1000 grit the stone was hitting the edge a little higher than the 600 and not touching the very edge at all. By raising the pivot on the EP I would then be hitting the edge bevel correctly. Since then I have used the sharpie to mark the edge every time I went from one grit to the next in sequence. So what I did was I took a knife and re-profiled it from 40 deg inclusive to 30 deg inclusive. Keep in mind the EP puts a V shaped edge, not a convex edge on the blade. I used the 120 grit stone and got the edge very sharp with equal width bevels on each side of the knife. Then I marked the bevels and put the 220 grit stone in the EP and stroked the edge with the 220 stone. I was not removing the sharpie from the entire bevel that was created with the 120 stone. By adjusting the pivot just a hair I was then hitting the entire flat bevel that the 120 stone put on the edge. I continued sharpening until I had removed the large scratch pattern made by the 120 stone. Then again I marked the edge and put the 320 stone in the EP and did a couple of “test” strokes. I found I had to put the pivot back exactly where it was when I had the 120 stone in the EP. This meant the 220 stone was a little different in thickness than the 120 and 320 stones. The two problems this will create is if you don’t adjust the pivot with each stone (or at least check the angle with a marker) is not removing the scratch pattern on the entire bevel and also not hitting the edge at all when using a stone that is thicker by just a little than the other ones. The stone not hitting the very edge of a blade is one of the most common problems when we don’t seem to be getting an edge sharper no matter how much time we sharpen a knife.
I’m trying to make this as clear as I can but in case I’ve done a poor job explaining just do this (EP users), use the marker to check how each stone hits the bevel on the edge on every stone you use and see if all your stones are hitting the edge exactly the same as the previous stone you just used. The main benefit of the EP like all sharpening systems is giving the user the ability to put more accurate strokes on the blade edge than when sharpening by hand.
This issue is not isolated to the Edge Pro. Any sharpening system I think needs to be checked to see how each stone is hitting your edge as you progress through the different grits.
I’m interested in how many other people (if any) have noticed this on their EP or WEPS or any system.
Jack
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chuck_roxas45
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I agree Jack, even when the stones are new, they probably aren't the same thickness. I got tired of adjusting and messing with the arm everytime I changed stones. What I do now is just rock the knife slightly and I find that I can usually hit the part of the bevel that I want to hit. This does take a lot of attention to detail and attention to what you are doing. A frequent examination of the edge is also ideal to check what is happening there.
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jackknifeh
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I've never used a Wicked Edge sharpener. I've been using the EP for about 2 years now. The more I use it the more I love it. By now I can use it without having to think about how to do anything. It's like driving. At first you have to concentrate on keeping the car between the ditches. Now I can eat, text and drive. I've only hit 27 trees too. :) I've never heard a bad word about the WE sharpener from anyone who has one. I know one thing. The EP is really great and I'd be interested to know of anything that the WE would do better just out of curiousity. If you are deciding which to get I'd get the one that is least expensive unless you can get an opinion of someone who has used both a lot. If I used a WE right now I doubt if I would like it as much as the EP because I'm not used to it. If I was used to the WE and liked it I probably wouldn't like the EP at first either, if that makes any sense.
If you have any specific questions about the EP please ask. Basically, you can sharpen any knife to any angle you want. You can sharpen scissors also which you aren't supposed to be able to do. Someone on this forum showed how to do it and it works. I sharpened every pair of scissors in the house.
Jack
Jack
If you have any specific questions about the EP please ask. Basically, you can sharpen any knife to any angle you want. You can sharpen scissors also which you aren't supposed to be able to do. Someone on this forum showed how to do it and it works. I sharpened every pair of scissors in the house.
Jack
Jack
I like my EP. I've had it for about a year and have sharpened lots of knives. I got the apex 4 system and only use the 1000 grit stone. I've replaced all the other stones with congress moldmaster silicone carbide. I set my 15 degree bevel with the 320,400,600 CS stones,then set a 1000 grit micro bevel at 20 degrees. I don't waste my time with the polishing tapes because I like the 1000 edge better than the higher polished edge.
If I had to do it all over, I would buy the cheaper EP ( apex1), replace the 220,320 stones with congress 320,400, for reprofiling. (15 degree bevel) Then buy a sharpmaker with the UF rods. (20 degree microbevel) this would cost about the same as the apex 4 and have a bunch more options.
If I had to do it all over, I would buy the cheaper EP ( apex1), replace the 220,320 stones with congress 320,400, for reprofiling. (15 degree bevel) Then buy a sharpmaker with the UF rods. (20 degree microbevel) this would cost about the same as the apex 4 and have a bunch more options.
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Simple Man
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Pretty human to like, or prefer what ever was chosen as long as it holds up and does the job. It's all good, but different. I chose the Wicked Edge system. Once past the learning curve, which all will have I am very happy with the results. I like being able to do both sides and believe it is easier to balance an edge, especially a new one with factory edge's that are off. You can stay on one side as long as you wish, and go right to the other, alternate once balanced. Two of each stone grit does raise the price, but that's twice as much stone life.
LOG
LOG
I have the EP and can't say enough about it. The reason I chose the EP over WE was: (1) I've used a Lansky before and do not like the need to clamp a blade into the tool, just as with the WE system. This is sometimes near impossible and can scratch a blade. That said, the EP can scratch a blade to if you aren't real careful to tape up the blade, especially when using lower grits to reprofile an edge since the grit/slurry can abrade the blade if not careful. (2) With the EP system you can go with Congress stones of many, many varieties and that really opens up a whole world of possibilities.
In the end I suspect they are both great systems, and they simply can't be beat for putting a consistent bevel/edge on your blades that is as precise as one can reasonably expect to get. I still use a SM for serrations, but I've only got a couple of blades with SE, so it doesn't see much action.
In the end I suspect they are both great systems, and they simply can't be beat for putting a consistent bevel/edge on your blades that is as precise as one can reasonably expect to get. I still use a SM for serrations, but I've only got a couple of blades with SE, so it doesn't see much action.