Another Zoomer

[KawRiverrat]

I have lurked here for years. I have learned a great deal from this forum & memebers here.

I often wonder how an alien from some far away planet would look at my thoughts & the discussion here ?

Which brings me to the Zoomer. This knife to me, looks like an alien designed it. Thats not a bad thing !
What im trying to say is the design / profile of the blade & handle is much different than anything prior I have delbt
with.

And it very simply works very well for its intended task. Being bush craft. I need to see if it will work me.

Sheath :
This will sound harsh. Remember its just my thoughts. Worth no more than you paid.
I will not use or tolerate the dangle sheath.

If you camp/hunt or hike in areas with manicured trails or paths, never run or have to crawl through thick under brush,
this well made sheath might work for you. I have to do all of the above. It becomes an issue.

Also its way overbuilt ,being to heavy for the knife it carries. However maybe most carrying a 9 oz. plus knife aint worried
about its weight ? Not sure.

Handle:

The handle/grip on the Zoomer is what causes myself & others to look at it a little longer, I believe Sal/Spyderco, designs
some of the the best ergonomics & blade profiles in their knives vs any other knife production, outside of custom knife
makers.

T. Zoomer whom I've never googled & know zero about him other than he design a great knife with a fantastic handle for
the intended task.

Have no issue with blade steel. 20cv has become one of my favs. I think this steel should work well with a zero grind with thick spine.


OK, here is where I need help. Whats the best way to maitain the convex grind that works so well with this knife ?

Im slightly confident I can do it using leather strops & different levels of paste ?

Thanx, Jeff, From KS

[Michael Janich]

Dear KawRiverrat:

Welcome to the Spyderco Forum.

Stay safe,

Mike

[Senfkarte]

......

OK, here is where I need help. Whats the best way to maitain the convex grind that works so well with this knife ?

Im slightly confident I can do it using leather strops & different levels of paste ?

Thanx, Jeff, From KS

A strop will only be good for so long. If you really dull the edge, you will need more. I always use sandpaper on a mousepad for a convex grind. For the final touches, a strop will be ideal.

[KawRiverrat]

Thanks fellas. I've order leather for making 3 new strops. Have all the stones Ill ever need. Tried the sandpaper it showed
promise but man I had to pay attention or it was easy to blunt edge.

Out of box edge on my Zoomer was the worse of any Spyderco Ive purchased. Sharp is
always a changing thing. Not that important to me. However I do need to learn to do a convex / apple seed profile.

The dangle sheath, I know its popular with some bushcrafters. Its well made. Any one use the sheath regularly ?
While it wont work for me I have a genuine interest in knowing why some choose & like this style sheath.

[KawRiverrat]

I have leather coming to make 3 new strops. I have had great results using leather strops with different levels of
abrasiveves added. However I've yet to profile /sharpen a convex grind.

As stated I dont believe I will ever use the sheath. Its made well enough. This style just wont work for me. I understand
some that do bushcraft like the dangle style sheath.
I genuinely would like to hear from some that like this sheath & use it.

[Scandi Grind]

I have a Tops Fieldcraft with a convex grind. I just handle it by sharpening at the very edge till apexed, then sharpen behind the edge just to keep thickness down. Or do the steps vise versa.

Sandpaper on a mousepad is a cool idea.

[KawRiverrat]

Im starting to see sandpaper laid on a surface that has some give, mouse pad to soft for me, may be a good option for those without a belt grinder

[Fireman]

I would have rings of appropriate diameter about 1 to 1 1/2” width to apply the abrasive and or leather to the inside. You could engineer ways to make the rings spin for you or drag the ring on a flat surface with the knife on the inside. I would want the surface to be firm like leather or hard as to not ruin the apex through too much pressure

[KawRiverrat]

Fireman, 1st thanx 4 your reply. You make a very unique & interesting point. I have to admit it took me a minute to picture in my mind what you've described. It would be easy to over engineer what your describing ... I think ?

However I believe your idea has merit. I also believe this "Outside The Box" type thinking is what at times leads to better ways of achieving a solution.... I appreciate your response. Jeff, From KS

[KawRiverrat]

Fireman, Im getting WAY off topic here... the best solutions to issues, whether they be mechanical or health/biological issues, have at times been brought about from people that just had a different way of thinking. Historically some of these people dealt with ridicule from peers. " It wont work " that sort of stuff.

I've avenues others don't have. I mite be willing to try/test out your thoughts with your help & direction.

If ultimately it dont work. There is no way we both come away without learning something.

[KawRiverrat]

To Whom It May Concern :

I've begin to wonder about the delay in my post. Kinda makes it not worth posting at all. Can someone please explain.

Jeff, From KS

[KawRiverrat]

Update : I just spoke with Chase at the store in Clorado. He took time to answer my concerns. Easy thing to understand

[TazKristi]

To Whom It May Concern :

I've begin to wonder about the delay in my post. Kinda makes it not worth posting at all. Can someone please explain.

Jeff, From KS

Hi, Jeff:
You'll find a detailed explanation here, viewtopic.php?f=11&t=88927. Thanks much for your understanding, and welcome to our forum.

Kristi

[Airlsee]

3M wet/dry autobody sandpaper from 320 to 2500 grit can be picked up from most home improvement, hardware or car part stores. Then a mousepad, patience and practice will get you a wicked convex edge.


ETA:
Convex BRK's


You can also touch them up on the corners of the fine sharpmaker stones, if stropping doesn't suffice.

[Bolster]

Hapstone makes a convex edge accessory

[KawRiverrat]

Airlsee, I could do most anything needed with that selection of Bark Rivers you have.

Bolster, While I am familiar with Hapstone, this sharpner is new to me. While I enjoy sharpeneing by hand a tool like this
could be useful on heavy use knives that eventually need to thinned or reprofiled.

Thanx Fellas. Jeff, From KS

[KawRiverrat]

Is just me or does the Convex / Apple Seed profle just have a nice but different feel ? Like when cutting a feather stick or
cutting strips of wood to shape. Kind of like the difference between an aggressive toothy edge slicing paper vs a polished
edge.

Please keep in mind this is my first convex blade. I also believe this knife / blade profile is among the easiest to control
while in the cut. Its like the edge follows parallel to the rib cage like a lazer when filleting ctafish.
all this with a blade that is thick as pry bar !

Also this makes a great planer to flatten wood when in the brush.

This convex grind is taking me to school. Wont use it on all my knives. However once Im comfortable with achieving it
I do have knives that will most likely not be profiled in any other way. Some cool stuff. For me Anywhooo.

Jeff, From KS.

[Bolster]

Bolster, While I am familiar with Hapstone, this sharpner is new to me. While I enjoy sharpeneing by hand a tool like this
could be useful on heavy use knives that eventually need to thinned or reprofiled.

I think the "hinged guide rod" that would create an appleseed edge is an aftermarket accessory that could be used on any of the Hapstone sharpeners.

[KawRiverrat]

Bolster, here you go.

https://hapstone.pro/index.php?route=pr ... uct_id=289

Its appears to be a neat idea. I'd like to try it. After I have gained the capacity to do it by hand.